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Any Suggestions on How to Remove This?

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  • Any Suggestions on How to Remove This?

    I am stripping down a Riding mower that has a good 10.5 HP B&S engine, amongst a bunch of really useful (to me, anyways) pulleys, shafts, etc. I am basically recycling it to the extent possible ..from mower to art. The motor will go on Craigslist.
    Here is my problem...the motor will not lift out of the deck without first removing the drive belt pulleys, which are attached to the crankshaft, and are a two pulley-on-a-shaft setup. I tapped and pried, then drilled tow holes right next to the shaft to use gear puller on, and the shaft is so mated to the crank (I used Aerokroil, then PB blaster on the shaft for 48 hours before impacting) that the outer pulley severed from the shaft when I put the impact wrench to work on the puller (see the shereaded pulley in the picture). I thought about just trimming off the remaining pulley with the Plasma Cutter, then slitting the shaft...butI don't want to deal with the motor flaming up from the heat...plus it would most likely cook that crank seal.

    I also though about welding a pipe with a"shoe" on the end to the protruding shaft, then working the shoe with an Impact Hammer....Sorrry for the blurry photos, I was in motion.

    Thoughts, please??



    Last edited by Hotfoot; 01-04-2009, 03:53 PM.
    "Good Enough Never Is"

  • #2
    A torch is the best stuck stuff tool you could want. Just get it pretty warm and it may help.
    Don


    Go Spurs Go!!!!!!

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    • #3
      When I worked for a John Deere dealership, we'd get blade adaptors on JD mowers all the time that were practically welded to the shaft with rust and time. An old hand there showed me a trick I'd never have thought possible but it worked like a champ. We'd cut them off with a cutting torch. Yep. The way it works is that the shaft and the pulley, adpator, whatever - are two separate pieces of metal, and the oxidation process from the cutting torch wouldn't easily transfer from one to the other. You'd have to start washing down parallel to the motor shaft a little at a time, and when you got close you'd see what you're cutting just dissolve and leave the shaft untouched. If you were quick about it, the engine shaft never got hotter than it would in normal operation, although you could heat sink it too for safety. I wouldn't try this with a plasma, as the cutting theory is different and plasma will just cut whatever is in its path.
      Trailblazer 302 * Millermatic 212 * Syncrowave 180SD * X-Treme 12VS Feeder * Spoolmate 3035
      Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52 Plasma * Lincoln 175 MIG

      Victor Superrange II * Victor Journeyman

      Hobart HH 125EZ


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      • #4
        Yeah, Don, what I believe I'll try is welding a couple bolts up the sides of that remaining shaft, slipping the gear puller over them -pushing off the crank. The welding should provide plenty of heat to swell the tube some. If it cools too much while fitting the puller, I can then re-heat it until it does.

        Zrex: That may be where I go if the puller/welded bolt doesn't do it...Just heat wash it up and down that tube, then go into it with the cutting torch to basically "slit the tube", right??
        Last edited by Hotfoot; 01-04-2009, 05:39 PM.
        "Good Enough Never Is"

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        • #5
          X2 on the torch---Zrexxer has the plan, just remember to go quickly so you dont transfer the heat too much. And you may not have to slit it all the way either. Try it as far as reasonable and then try yanking on it. Maybe hammer it a bit while its hot.

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          • #6
            Micro peening

            Foot,
            Vicegrip posted awhile back about "micro peening," where you strike a stuck object lightly like a couple hundred times or so. I was skeptical at first (Sorry Phil), but then one day I had a sump pump that I was disassembling and couldn't get the stand pipe removed cause it rusted on. Had soaked it in Kroil and waited couple days -- nothing. Then I remembered ViceGrips advice and tried his micropeening. Hit it like 300 times with a ball peen hammer -- just light little taps, not huge swings to even dent anything. Vice says it sets up a constant vibration that will work the parts apart. When I got done hittin' it, I put the pipe wrench to it and it virtually screwed itself apart. I was simply fricken' amazed. It worked -- or so it seems. Might want to try that too. Nothing lost except about a couple minutes of time in hitting it. Good luck and keep us informed.
            Cheers,
            Jim Don
            PS also used it successfully on an old, rusted on ball hitch on my truck. Worked again. Thanks Phil

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            • #7
              Thoughts? Okay, here's mine....cut the mower deck so that the pulley comes thru and leave the pulley on the motor. Let the guy that buys the motor deal with it. It might even be what he needs so it can stay on the motor.
              Jim

              Miller MM 210
              Miller Dialarc 250P
              Airco 225 engine driven
              Victor O/A
              Lots of other tools and always wanting more

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              • #8
                Yeah, I thought about that Jim, but clearance to the base of the motor is mighty small...kinda hate to cook it!, Plus it'll be a sloppy cut...but I could remove most of the other "stuff" that's in the way to clear that up. I believe I'm going to try the cutting torch-slit approach...but its too cold to mess with it today (40 degrees!!! Brrrr....)...it'll be back up in the 70's in two days, so I'll hit it then.

                The micropeening is very similar to what makes impact hammers and wrenches work, as well, I bet! The reason the larger hub sheared of so cleanly is because I used my Impact Wrench and held it there for about 5 seconds...I was plenty amazed that the tube gave up before the crankshaft grip!
                "Good Enough Never Is"

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                • #9
                  Explosives?
                  Could be last resort.

                  Uses wraps of det cord to remove ships propeller. Sometimes took 2nd shot.
                  Last edited by Roger; 01-06-2009, 07:47 AM.

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                  • #10
                    Hey, I like that!! It could be fun!!...but I think I'm going to drill the pipe, and place a3/8" bolt through it, which will pass through an eye in a 3/8" rod, which will stick out the pipe, and get hooked to a slide hammer...(and yes, I did consider hooking that loop to the trailer hitch on my car, leaving about 6' of slack chain, then speeding away to "snatch" it off...but I think I'll stick with the Slide Hammer..



                    If that doen't do it...out comes the cutting torch!

                    If that doesn't do it, I cut the deck (ala: Jim-Tx)

                    If that doesn't do it I'll come up with some sort of art object!
                    Last edited by Hotfoot; 01-05-2009, 06:40 PM.
                    "Good Enough Never Is"

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                    • #11
                      The silde hammer might damage the engine bearings.

                      Pretty tedious, but I think I would try to slit the axel pipe with a Dremel cut off wheel. Might get the outer part with an angle grinder.

                      Bob

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                      • #12
                        SOLUTION: When I unbolted the axle for clearance, a samll plate became visible. When I unbolted that, it allowed me to lift the engine out, pulley and all. I listed it on Craigslist with "Pulley shaft remains/unusable condition/must be removed".

                        thanks for al the excellent suggestions, guys! I did kinda like the blasting cord idea...I could have packed it with a small scoop of this mystery stuff I have a huge container of...


                        OK, so its an empty container...dated 1945...its just showed up at the Thrift Store Drop Off one day, and I thought the handle was neat!
                        Last edited by Hotfoot; 01-06-2009, 03:18 PM.
                        "Good Enough Never Is"

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                        • #13
                          Can you weld a small plate to the end of the tube? This would have a tapped hole, and a bolt through the center to push against the end of the shaft. Then heat near the base as well.
                          --- RJL ----------------------------------------------

                          Ordinarily I'm insane, but I have lucid moments when I'm merely stupid.
                          -------------------------

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                          • #14
                            Sometimes you have to drive the pulley towards the motor a touch, spray with fluid, get the hook of a crowbar behind and pry it back off a touch, heat, repeat....sometimes you can get enough purchase on the woodruff key to pull it out as well. Just keep working it back and forth without trying to distort it too badly.

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                            • #15
                              Used to work a a small busy engine shop, here is how they handled this on a daily basis. Take a chisel from a air hammer & cut the tip off blunt. Remove the bolt and washer from the shaft & reinstall the bolt but only tighten a few threads. Now give it a quick burst with Your air hammer & special punch while holding the whole thing upside down by the shaft. Be careful it will usually come off very quick don't break the engine or Your toe.
                              As always, Your favorite penetrating oil is Your friend.

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