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Before the Hot Oil

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  • Before the Hot Oil

    I'm showing this gong to let folks see the "Before and After" of the Hot Oil finisk. At this point I'm thinking all black for this guy, but its brand new, so I could easily change my mind by tomorrow. Its very windy today, so, for fire safety reasons, I'll wait until tomorrow to fire up the torch. In this picture it has just been 'flapped', then brushed with Linseed Oil and Japan dryer, so it may need a recoat tomorrow to get the depth of color I want, but I'll see...

    Its just a (heavy!) bottom part of a large, thick O2 cylinder. I made a gong from the top part already, so this guy is next up on the block! That top is a front wheel hub from a 1927 Model T ford...the bolts used to hold the wood wheel spokes. I welded it using DC stick, because I had to "stick" (Hey!, Maybe that's where it got its name!) the rod (carefully) down between the hub and the cylinder, being careful not to arc to the sides. I will weld a spring shackle bolt from an old F100 pickup to it to provide a hanging loop, plus its part of the design I worked out.

    I may put some color on it to compliment the black...or I may leave the top portion silver....tomorrow will tell!

    "Good Enough Never Is"

  • #2
    Make sure you tell prospective purchasers the vintage of the hub, and charge accordingly. Gloss over the "older Ford shackle", LOL.
    --- RJL ----------------------------------------------

    Ordinarily I'm insane, but I have lucid moments when I'm merely stupid.
    -------------------------

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    • #3
      Hotfoot,

      If you have a chance, could you please photograph intermediate steps/colors and provide some comments?

      Do you want the oil layer to be dry before applying heat? Was it the reason you used the dryer and painted the cyclinder in advance?

      Do you just add Japan Dryer into the oil?
      Last edited by MichaelP; 02-08-2009, 04:32 PM.

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      • #4
        You don't have to mow much grass do ya? Where do yu get all of the tanks? LWS or scrap or what? You have probably said before, but I don't remember...I would like to make a gong to go next to my fish pond, of course the neighborhood kids would prob. just keep ridin their bikes by and well you know...little _____s!!!!
        Hobart 140 Victor O/A 450series Milwaukee sawzall Drill press Chinese sandblaster
        Dewalt chop saw

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        • #5
          Originally posted by MichaelP View Post
          Hotfoot,

          If you have a chance, could you please photograph intermediate steps/colors and provide some comments?

          Do you want the oil layer to be dry before applying heat? Was it the reason you used the dryer and painted the cyclinder in advance?

          Do you just add Japan Dryer into the oil?
          I add way more Japan dryer than the can suggests. I add about 1/4 or more dryer to the boiled Linseed Oil.

          I usually don't apply the oil ahead of time, but I had the tank flapped down to where I wanted it, and didn't want it to rust while I waited for another day or two for the wind to die down (we are in a severe drought right now)
          I usually brush it on, then go right ahead and flame it.

          The color will remain clear as you start heating the entire piece up uniformly...it takes a lot of heat. I use one of those Weed Burner Propane Torches. The first colors that start to appear will be yellow, which then go to gold...you can stop at any stage and the color will remain where you take it to. Then it goes to brown, then black, the scorched ( too far at that point).

          The finish is very weather resistant. After you have reached your color (or colors)it will still be tacky for a few days...setting it out in the hot sun speeds up final drying.
          "Good Enough Never Is"

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          • #6
            So you add the dryer to make it less tacky faster? Does the dryer affect color in any way?

            I remember trying to follow your approach while weather protecting my anvil made of a piece of railroad rail. I didn't notice such beautiful yellow, gold and other colors that are present on your gongs or the recently finished silverware bird. Are there any secrets that remain undisclosed?

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            • #7
              Gee, I don't know why the anvil didn't cooperate...
              Did you use large propane torch to keep the whole thing heated (sweeping it all over constantly)?
              You might have had too much heat, causing the colors to flash past before you much noticed.
              Just take an old stainless tablespoon, drill a hole in the handle,and clean it very well (maybe acetone?), then coat it with the mix, and hang it where you can fire away. Pay attention and you'll see the colors come up. You should be able to do a gradiated tint from top to bottom, yellow to black, with careful attention to your heat.
              "Good Enough Never Is"

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              • #8
                Thank you, Hotfoot, I'll try it!

                By the way, I used Boiled Linseed Oil without Japan Dryer. Do you think wrong oil or absent dryer could have played any role?

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                • #9
                  'could be, but I don't know...just experiment!
                  "Good Enough Never Is"

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                  • #10
                    OK, I will. Thank you, Hotfoot!

                    I wish you a good weather so that you could finish the gong and display it here in a short while.

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                    • #11
                      OK, Michael P...
                      This much oil

                      I add a bit of Japan Dryer (a 1,2,3 count in this case). I think you can see it as a dark layer on the top..

                      After blasting it (always moving up, down, around)for about 3 or 4 minutes, the yellow begins to appear, which goes to gold rapidly..

                      I didn't stop at any other stages because I was busy running the torch all over it. I really liked the "Dark Copper" when I got to it (I also call this "Root Beer")..
                      so I stopped here. I may add paint over it foe a design, if I do, Oil Based Enamels take very well on top this... the Linseed oil is the "oil" in oil based paints). (Very overcast, plus back lighting, plus using a cell phone camera, so excuse photo quality)
                      "Good Enough Never Is"

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                      • #12
                        Yesterday's post finally showed up...with no explanation of where they had been...Perhaps the Twilight Zone exists, after all!!
                        Last edited by Hotfoot; 02-10-2009, 01:02 PM.
                        "Good Enough Never Is"

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                        • #13
                          Hotfoot, don't look out the window. The moderators are watching.

                          --- RJL ----------------------------------------------

                          Ordinarily I'm insane, but I have lucid moments when I'm merely stupid.
                          -------------------------

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                          • #14
                            Thanks

                            I should have posted this sooner -- Thanks Mr Foot.
                            I've used the technique on a couple of small things,
                            perhaps someday I'll have something that I'm not
                            too embarrassed to show

                            And for the rest of the crew ... removing the scale & rust and
                            getting down to shiny metal is really important.
                            Don't ask me how I know

                            Frank

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                            • #15
                              Hotfoot,

                              How do you sign your work? Is the gong engraved??


                              Bill

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