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Just started insullating the garage. Any tips?

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  • Just started insullating the garage. Any tips?

    Well guys I just started insulating the garage tonight. After a six pack and a package of R13 I have 1/3 of the walls done in the garage. I only have 2x4 studded walls so the best I could get was R13. Do you guys have any tips for the insulation installation? I went with a one sided craft-faced R13 pre-cut because I'm lazy
    HH 140
    Hobart stickmate ac/dc
    Sanborn 7hp 60gal comp
    1950's Craftsman drillpress

  • #2
    Sounds like you have a good handle on it. You insulating the door and ceiling, too? That's the same way we insulated my stepdad's detached garage two years ago. What are you using for wallboard on top? Maybe plan for future electrical needs before finishing a wall too much.

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    • #3
      Yes I will be doing the ceiling as well. I am going to do a blow in insulation in the ceiling. I think a foot or so maybe more. I would maybe go with a 5/8" drywall for the ceiling and also clear plastic under the drywall for a vapor barrier. I have just a lightweight 16' steel garage door.

      I will be picking up one of those insulating kits for it. As for the wiring its pretty much done. All I have to do is install one more 240v outlet to move the compressor closer to the door.
      HH 140
      Hobart stickmate ac/dc
      Sanborn 7hp 60gal comp
      1950's Craftsman drillpress

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      • #4
        Once you have the insulation in, go over the surface with sheet plastic, tape the seams and caulk the base. It should cut down air infiltration further. After that, 5/8" sheetrock. That's the way I did my shop walls and at 14' high each final 2' X 8' section was a sonuvagun sliding up the ladder alone.
        Miller 251, Lincoln PrecisionTig 275, Miller DialArc 250 AC/DC, Hypertherm 900, Bridgeport J-head, Jet 14" lathe, South Bend 9" lathe, Hossfeld bender with a collection of dies driving me to the poorhouse, Logan shaper, Ellis 3000 bandsaw, Royersford drill press and a Victor Journeyman O/A.

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        • #5
          Typed too slow...oh well. I had the same ribbed metal paneling installed as the outside of my shop for the ceiling. Reasoning behind that was at the time it would have cost me more to go with sheetrock due to having to add more wood bracing between the rafters for the sheetrock installation. Nowadays, I doubt the numbers would be as good for the metal ceiling.
          Miller 251, Lincoln PrecisionTig 275, Miller DialArc 250 AC/DC, Hypertherm 900, Bridgeport J-head, Jet 14" lathe, South Bend 9" lathe, Hossfeld bender with a collection of dies driving me to the poorhouse, Logan shaper, Ellis 3000 bandsaw, Royersford drill press and a Victor Journeyman O/A.

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          • #6
            Any of you guys ever install one of those Modine hotdawg heaters? Is that something the average guy could install? I would like to think that I am a pretty mechanically inclined individual
            HH 140
            Hobart stickmate ac/dc
            Sanborn 7hp 60gal comp
            1950's Craftsman drillpress

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            • #7
              I wouldn't hesitate to install one myself, but I do that kind of stuff for a living, too. If you are comfortable installing gas, vent, and electrical connections, then you should be able to do it yourself. The gas part would be the most important, but even improper venting can get you in trouble.

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              • #8
                Yeah I just want to run it on propane. I think I am up to the electrical part. I would wire it to its own breaker. Preferably vent it out the side of the garage. Then I don't have to mess with any shingles and what not.
                HH 140
                Hobart stickmate ac/dc
                Sanborn 7hp 60gal comp
                1950's Craftsman drillpress

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                • #9
                  If you do the job yourself be aware that the venting will take a special grade stainless steel vent to meet code if vented horizontally.
                  Miller 251, Lincoln PrecisionTig 275, Miller DialArc 250 AC/DC, Hypertherm 900, Bridgeport J-head, Jet 14" lathe, South Bend 9" lathe, Hossfeld bender with a collection of dies driving me to the poorhouse, Logan shaper, Ellis 3000 bandsaw, Royersford drill press and a Victor Journeyman O/A.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Wyoming View Post
                    If you do the job yourself be aware that the venting will take a special grade stainless steel vent to meet code if vented horizontally.
                    Hey thats what you guys are here for
                    HH 140
                    Hobart stickmate ac/dc
                    Sanborn 7hp 60gal comp
                    1950's Craftsman drillpress

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                    • #11
                      Yes, a couple friends install those and they work good. One Bud has wood too but leaves the LP on low, takes over when the wood runs down and he isn't there. When he kept regular schedule he got programmable thermostat, turned it up a bit before he got there in the morn.
                      http://www.facebook.com/cary.urka.urkafarms

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                      • #12
                        I used OSB on my walls (lower) and pegboard (upper) - but all OSB would work just fine IMHO. The stuff is cheaper then drywall, easier to install, and won't get hole knocked in it the first time you bump something into it. I've welded within a couple inches of the stuff before with no ill effects, so it seems to be fairly flame resistant (it's got a lot of glue in it anyway). A pic:



                        Just a suggestion...

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                        • #13
                          Drywall don't burn. 5/8" drywall = a one-hour fire rating. I'd spend the few xtra bux fer the safety factor.

                          Hank
                          ...from the Gadget Garage
                          MM 210 w/3035, BWE
                          HH 210 w/DP 3035
                          TA185TSW
                          Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange
                          Avatar courtesy of Bob Sigmon...

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                          • #14
                            Yeah I was thinking about going with some mold resistant drywall of some sort. It will look a little better out there anyway with drywall.
                            HH 140
                            Hobart stickmate ac/dc
                            Sanborn 7hp 60gal comp
                            1950's Craftsman drillpress

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                            • #15
                              I wouldn't use a plastic barrier unless you have a lot of ventilation.
                              You need to be able to evacuate moisture.
                              Tyvec is better.

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