Need to put Allen Cap Heads on Air Mixtuure Screws
Just a quick update. I have a CAD drawing of the 350/250 heads. I will post as soon as I can find a way to do from a PDF file.
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Need to put Allen Cap Heads on Air Mixtuure Screws...
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I made a couple sets up for some AHRMA racers a few years back blus float bowl quick release screws that were tool less for quick, in the pit jet changes.
The float bowl screws were 18-8 metric stainless studs, 272 threadlocked in aluminum hex stock, turned down with the hex left proud so they could do finger jet changes. I deformed the first few threads on the studs to insure a locked condition.
I drilled the slotted end of the mixture screws and used a 4-40 bottoming tap and threaded into the meat of the screw. I then threadlocked a short 18-8 stainless stud (just like the floatbowl screws) and attached a knurled knob (threaded to attach to the stud) and threadlocked it as well.
I made about 10 sets for the racers. They were running Mikuni smooth bore race carbs. TDK's I believe.
That is the easiest way to obtain finger adjustable jetting. It looks good plus it is vibration proof and straight. You'll heva e a really hard time getting a socket head attached to the screw, especially getting them straight.....
They had no problems and were very happy with the result. When my customers are happy, so am I.
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Brad,
If the screws and heads are brass I would use lead free solder. Flux it and solder it right up. It takes less heat to solder than to braze. Less apt to mess up your screws..
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Need to put Allen Cap Heads on Air Mixtuure Screws...
I'm not sure whether to braze or use silver solder.
If I braze - should I use a high silver content rod?
I have 4-40 brass screws that I will be cutting the heads off of to attach to the air mixture screws on some non-standard carbs for a Yamaha RD350 w/PWK carbs on and RD400 engine/tranny.
This will make adjusting the mixture a bit easier because you just don't have room for a screwdriver...
Any suggestions?
TIA,
BradTags: None
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