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Welding to get a broken bolt out of engine block

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  • Welding to get a broken bolt out of engine block

    Hello, I've have a Hobart handler 140 that I've been using to restore my truck. I'm using 0.23 wire and a 25% mixture CO2 in argon. I've seen a few videos about using a welder to get a broken nut off. If any of you have had this issue and use your welder to weld and not on, what were your settings for the 140?

  • #2
    I would go max but a lot depends on size of bolt, nut and filler wire....

    Dale
    "Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson..

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    • #3
      I'll bet if you linked us to the videos you watched, we could help better.

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      • #4
        Here is the link to one of the many youtube videos showing how to do it; https://youtu.be/Gz_cv38xT_I

        I'm currently running 0.23 wire. And the size of the bolt is 10 mm.

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        • #5
          WOW! That slag pile method is something else!

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          • #6
            Video shows everything wrong about how to do it..... Slag piles...Eeeek... Not sure I would want him doing anything near my vehicle with a welder...

            Personally I would wire brush broken bolt as clean as I can, drop a over sized nut over it, and just run a bead around center of bolt/nut combo a time or two, and put wrench on nut while its still hot and remove.... Actual weld process would be same as doing a "plug" weld...

            Dale
            "Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson..

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            • #7
              I'm looking for the settings, Amps and wire speed. If you have done it on a 140, what were your settings?

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              • #8
                IF you have older 140 try a 3 on voltage, about 50 on wire speed and I am always using .030 wire and C25.... You just want a lot of heat, and fuse bolt and nut together... BAM ..... Done!........Its not for beauty...

                IF you have some experience welding why is it so critical someone has to give exact machine settings...

                Dale
                "Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson..

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                • #9
                  I'm new to Welding. I bought the Hobart 140 to restore my 2001 Silverado 1500 HD and did a lot of practice on Butt welds and flange weld to determine the sweet spot for each. I have replaced patch panels on the bed and got it painted. But now I have 2 bolts that broke off and my truck is out of commission. So I wanted to get the settings to get the job done as soon as possible. Some of the videos suggested a wire speed of 20. I usually use the wire feed at 55 to 65.

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                  • #10
                    Don't use anything from the video link you posted. He did most every thing wrong in my opinion. Starting with welding in shorts & flip flops! Set up your welder to weld 1/4" steel, Use a flat washer if you need t to protect the casting the bolt is broken off in. Weld a nut on the bolt (& washer if you used one), gently work the bolt back & forth until you get movement then keep workiing it until you get it out.

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                    • #11
                      That video was only one I watched, this one https://youtu.be/EQV_-i1o6q0 is more like you are saying. The only thing he doesn't do is wiggle the nut back and forth at the beginning. Thanks for all the help. I got some 0.30 wire and contact tips ordered.

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                      • #12
                        I just started doing this. Getting broken bolts out of exhaust side of heads. These head s so far have been aluminium. I'm not sure if cast iron will be the same.the Mig won't stick to the thread s .they say a special electrobe for a stick welder is best because the flux is a special ceramic that protects the weld.And the stick gives more deep heat to the bolt to loosen it up.But I can tell you I have more luck with my mig.sometimes I'll start with the stick to warm it up but more times than not the Mig is all I use it just sometimes takes several times. I have 220v 180 amp mig. I power 4 speed 2.5 ,but you need to experiment. But short heat is good.I was cutting nuts down making them thinner made for a better weld to the bolt or in most my cases weld build up (bolts broken below the suface). Since then I bought thin nuts ....lol. Oh by the way for me you absolutely do not attempt to turn touch of remove until it is so cool you can touch it..,I usually take a short break while it's cooling ... Hope this helps

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by dahluwalia View Post
                          ...they say a special electrode for a stick welder is best because the flux is a special ceramic that protects the weld...
                          Who's "they?" The people selling the stick?

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                          • #14
                            Oh sorry they just generic for the general consensus of other auto mechanics welders and other forums i resurched,. I've been a auto mechanic,tech for 35 years and a shop owner for 10 years.Not a welder so I always look for input. We have had a alarming amount of broken exhuast manifold bolts in the las5years it seems.My tech spends a day or more on drilling them out.So I started looking for a better way.So far he takes it apart and I get them out with some kind of weld process or both welders i can say which is better but I'm more accurate with a mig

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                            • #15
                              When reinstall stud or bolts try coating with anti-seize compounds and if you have to work on that particular motor again bolts should come out freely....Or maybe the next guy to work on motor will thank you...
                              "Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson..

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