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  • #16
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	708001This is what the dam stuff should look like...……..1018 will do good if you got the right grind.

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ID:	708003But, you gotta stay on top of your sharpening routine...…….let it go......and the metal gets all smeary.....1018 is gummy stuff.

    Now FATIGUE PROOF...…...that's some cool stuff...…...GET ME A ROOM, AND A WET WASH RAG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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ID:	708004Harder material likes carbide, and ya don't have to go messing around with custom ground tools. This stuff rocks.


    • #17
      I was so doggone disgusted with the previous shaft, that it wound up in the scrap pile. Use it for something later I guess.

      Anyways......…...…..Might as well go the Full Monty, and get positively **** about things.

      Most of the time, I'm ok with a minor taper...….usually on the order of about .0007 over a longer piece. In the scheme of things,, it's not gonna bring about the end of the Universe. But, what the ****...….might as well spend the extra setup time bein' as I'm gonna do the part over. We're past "get 'er done" I gotta grudge.

      Set runout at the chuck, then set runout at the end of the stock.

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      Once you're happy, then run your live center into the tail of the stock, with your indicator on the stock while doing this. If the live center moves the stock, adjust your tailstock to eliminate any movement. I was out by about .001 .

      Take your first cut, and check dimensions.

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      Sammy is one happy camper now Coupla tenths is GOLDEN.


      • #18
        Bein' as this whole soap opera is about the finish, it was time to put some edge on the Ur**** 908 cutter, and let it rip.

        The bulk of the material was hogged with the carbide cutter, then it was down to the closer. Put the finishing tool in the toolpost.

        You can see the HUGE difference a good tool makes.

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        The previous pass done with carbide is on the left as the finishing cutter advances toward the chuck. This was a skim cut to establish the cutting depth after the tool swap. I usually don't use this tool until the last ten thousands. ALTHOUGH, THIS AIN'T ONE OF THOSE NAMBY PAMBY VERTICAL SHEAR TOOLS YA SEE BEIN' TOUTED AS THE BEST THING SINCE SLICED BREAD. THIS GUY WILL TAKE A DECENT CUT AT A DECENT SPEED. NONE OF THAT 1000rpm CRAP,, WITH A .002 DEPTH OF CUT. I run at about 460, and can take up to .040 DOC with this baby. ****, it'll cut the same at 70rpm.

        Anyways...……..the glamour shot...……...

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ID:	708019The real joy is running your hand across it. Feels like it's been ground, not turned. This is about the most practical grind there is for 1018.

        Throw some thread on it tomorrow, and press the die blank on......then it's over to the mill to cut the groove.

        I'd give my eye teeth to use anything other than 1018, but it's about the only readily weldable stuff out there, and this is gonna get some welding on it.


        • #19
          I wish the Like button worked on this forum.


          • #20
            Looking very good Sam. Glad you brought this thread over here. At least I can see the pictures now. I'm trying to get into some machining right now ,but not sure I really want to. Your projects and posts are helping make the decision to proceed easier.


            • #21
              I love machining, I do it about every day. I can't post pictures of what I do but I enjoy it. If you start out slow and on the cheap if you like it then you will be hooked and that's when you start spending money on bigger and better machines.

              Sometimes I think samm goes a little overboard but does a good job.


              • #22
                The shaft has been ready for the die blank, and today was the day.

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                The shaft was moving smoothly until it got about halfway in the bore, then resistance increased. On something like this, where it's a press fit, you better back off if things seem a bit out of whack.

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                The camera didn't focus too well, but ya can see where the shaft hit a lip. This is a problem with laminating two pieces of steel. Things can move just a bit, and you're screwed. Using a die grinder,, first with a very light stoning, then polishing with 180 grit...…...the lip was smoothed out.

                And in she goes.

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                Had I not paused to correct the issue, I'd of ruined the shaft.


                • #23
                  When something has to mate with a shoulder, I undercut the shoulder when I reach it. Just shove the bit in a bit to create an recessed ring. This insures that the shaft will fit the part without standing proud on the shoulder.

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                  Next, the assembly was glued together.

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                  I could have used a key, in conjunction with the press fit...…….but it just adds more setups, and time. This is taking a bit of a risk. You're worried about distortion bowing the shaft as the weld metal cools.


                  • #24
                    To check if the heat warped the shaft, it's mounted between centers.

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                    Runout turned out incredibly good. I'm runnin' on high octane with this one LOL.

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                    This particular set of measurements was the second of three. Shaft was checked at the chuck, at the disc, and at the tailstock.


                    • #25
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                      On Beer Nite, I like to say that I'm making sure I got plenty of shim stock.

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                      Hopefully this'll keep the jaws from marring the shaft.

                      Turn it tomorrw.

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                      • #26
                        I'm glad folks enjoy this stuff, it's a pleasure to do most of the time...…...until ya mess somethin' up ROFLMAO


                        • #27
                          I head out to the shop, and I got my Master Machinist hat on. I'm cruzin'.

                          Set everything up, and start to destroy some perfectly good metal. AND ALL OF A SUDDEN, IT'S GAME OVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ROFLMAO (HUGE GRIN)

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                          Sometimes carbide doesn't break chips, which is ok. I use it because you can get a bazillion miles off an insert. But BY GOLLY YA BETTER KEEP AN EYE ON THOSE STRINGERS, AND CLEAR THEM OUTTA THE MACHINE ONCE IN A WHILE. (insert smiley)

                 'er done, and checked the shaft for damage from the chuck jaws. Golden!!

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                          Last edited by farmersamm; 03-02-2020, 08:06 PM.


                          • #28
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                            The jaws never penetrated the beer cans. Now my Master Machinist hat is sittin' a little better.

                            Then I set everything up to do the groove on the rotary table.

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                            I get the most massive runout a doooood could imagine (OMG). I'm tryin' to figure out what's up...........then it hits me.

                            When setting up the chuck on the rotary table.............I centered the rotary table under the spindle........then slapped the chuck on the table, and used the spindle to center the chuck. Click image for larger version

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                            • #29
                              My Master Machinist Hat is a little bit off center now.

                              I'm sitting there on the stool (K'kins brought a stool out to the shop when she got tired of me complaining about my back from standing too long, bless that woman), and looking at this thing. Scratching my noggin.

                              YOU CANNOT CENTER THE CHUCK WITH THE SPINDLE.

                              You're turning your rotary table into a lathe. YOU HAVE TO CHECK RUNOUT, NOT CENTER ON THE LATHE JAWS. I had clamped the jaws in a centering rod extending from the spindle. SURE IT WAS CENTERED ON THE SPINDLE, BUT IF THE JAWS HAD RUNOUT, YA JUST WASTED YER TIME. YOU CENTERED ON THE ERROR IN THE JAWS. Three jaw chucks can have runout as high as .004 . So, you centered the stupid chuck on the jaws. You can't center the chuck in a static position...…….you have to rotate it to take the runout out of the stupid thing. MORON. Same principle as setting runout in a 4 jaw. Gotta rotate the chuck to see where the stock is going. IDIOT.

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                              So, I tore down my beautiful setup, and headed for the house.

                              I didn't have the patience to start over this afternoon.

                              I threw that Master Machinist Hat in the trash soon as I got to the house. Click image for larger version  Name:	itsok.gif Views:	0 Size:	877 Bytes ID:	708347

                              Tomorrow is another day. LOL


                              • #30
                                To be clear...………..

                                You can go ahead and center the table on the spindle, and ROUGH center the chuck on the spindle after you're done centering the table. This just speeds things up a bit. But ya still gotta center the chuck on the table itself.

                                This can be done from any arbitrary point on the mill table. Locate the indicator base anywhere ya wanna, and check runout on the chuck, with a piece of straight stock in the jaws, while rotating the table. You COULD do this from the get-go, but finding center is more tedious.