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  • bitternut
    replied
    Dave

    You could take the clamps off the ***** and drill holes sized smaller than the ball diameter. Then you could countersink the holes which would give more surface area for clamping. I would tack weld the clamps together for drilling so that they all had the same centerline distance. Then you could bust them apart and countersink them. Should hold position better with less pressure than just point contact. I think maybe I will make up some. Thanks for the idea.

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  • Dave Haak
    replied
    HEY BOB!

    Bob,

    Very good idea you had for TEE or ELL handles! I had not used the clamp in awhile and was considering some modifications after reading your post. After working with it for a couple of minutes I realized why I didn't do that the first time. You need 4-5 inches of leverage to be able to get the swivels tight enough to hold their position. Handles that long might get in the way. By the way, the idea for the swivels/vice grips is not original. I had seen something simalar but the adjustable wrenches were not made by Vice Grip, DeWitt, Nebraska. To get more surface contact on the ***** the inside of the clamp could be machined with a "ball-ended" end mill. Too late for this one

    Thanks for your input.

    Dave
    Last edited by Dave Haak; 12-23-2002, 10:07 PM.

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  • Dave Haak
    replied
    Weld Table/Weld Positioner

    Bob,

    They are ball bearings. Any bearing house should have quite a variety of sizes.

    Dave

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  • Bob
    replied
    Dave.

    I was revisiting the pix and just realize the great double clamped ball swivels for the vise grips and the "extra hand". Absolutly genius !!! Only thing missing is some "T" or "L" handles so you can clamp these in place by hand instead of using wrenches.

    Don't take this out of context, but where did you get the ***** for those.

    Bob

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  • Dave Haak
    replied
    Weld Table/Weld Positioner

    d110pickup
    Mike,

    No wheels on base. Just tip & roll.

    Round top- BECAUSE I COULD!............... No, really, just didn't want the pointy corners jabbing me in midsection as I turned the table top one way and then the other to make different welds on same project. I did start out with 2-ft. square. Flame cut with oxy acetylene torch in vise and plate bolted to a rotary table. Then used same setup with rotary table sitting on vertical mill/drill table. Fed flame cut edge into large diameter end mill to get nice clean edge.

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  • Bob
    replied
    Dave,

    I really like all the extras you have on the table; light, outlets, swivels, clamps. Great Work.

    My "table" is just a base/post for a resturant table, kinda an X shape on top that used to attach a round wooden top. With you input I think it will get some modifications soon.

    Bob

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  • d110pickup
    replied
    Dave,
    That is a useful weld table. I don't remember seeing the base, is it on wheels? Was there a reason you used a round top and not square?
    Very good, I'll probably build something like it.
    Thanks,
    Mike Pado

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  • Dave Haak
    replied
    Weld Table/Weld Positioner

    Lastly.....................

    is it Friday YET?!

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  • Dave Haak
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    Weld Table/Weld Positioner

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  • Dave Haak
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    Weld Table/Weld Positioner

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  • Dave Haak
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  • Dave Haak
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  • Dave Haak
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    Weld Table/Weld Positioner

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  • Dave Haak
    started a topic Weld Table/Weld Positioner

    Weld Table/Weld Positioner

    The following are of a welding table I made several years ago. The top raises, lowers, turns and will pivot 90 degrees. Also drilled and tapped (numerous holes) for 1/2-13.
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