chop saw blade question

[66chevelle396]

Guys

I have a fiber enforced abrasive disc and I can't keep it from flexing regardless of how slow or fast I go or what shape of tubing I am trying to cut. I am going to try and make some sort of support tomorrow to get me thru until I come up with something better. What I was wondering where a could get a good metal blade for the chop saw. I tried the local home depot but they didnt have any.

Also what would be the best tooth or brand for plain steel, chromemoly, and aluminum.

Thanks guys

todd

[Jim]

I seen metal cuting blades cutting metal studs, there 12" or larger from a good fastining co. they cost $200 a peice there were very noisey, the blade threw a lot of chips. The abasive blade are much better. Regards Jim

[Main]

http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/...hop+saw+blades

[Paychk]

This may interest you.

http://hawksawblades.com/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=CSB

http://www.hawksawblades.com/sawblad...metaldevil.htm

http://www.metaldevil.com/seeing.html

[Scott S]

If you have a good quality abrasive blade in your chop saw, you should be able to cut with no problem. Slow your speed down and keep even pressure. It sounds like you have an inferrior blade. The other factor could be your chop saw. If it is a cheap one, the motor might not be strong enough to provide a steady cut

[echo8287]

Metal saw blades

I might be wrong but I don't think you can put one of the newer metal cutting blades on a chop saw made for abrasive blades. I was at a farm show and a guy was demonstrating a Dewalt metal cutting saw and he said a regular chop saw doesn't have the speed required for the carbide toothed type metal blades. Also I think there were some bearing issues. Bored 2 weld on another post said he got a metal blade for his chopsaw,maybe he will post and let us know if it works ok. David

[jniolon]

metal blade

I got the same response from Dewalt after seeing their whiz-bang saw in Tools of the Trade magazine... I talked to one of their chop saw gurus and he said the bearings wouldn't handle it and it saw didn't have the rpm... also I think he said the mounting hole was different ??? can't remember


I use Dewalt abrasives in a B&D saw and it cuts well... starting to get a little bearing noise and dread the replacement but the saw cuts fine...just noisy. The cheaper HF or flea market blades wear quicker and don't cut as well in my experience..

john :-X06

[tigman]

I believe that the chop saws designed to run the carbide blade for cutting steel have alot lower rpm.I use makita abrasive blades in my chopsaw and would not use anything else.Scott

[cope]

I have used Norton disks from Home Depot, but the last couple I got were DeWalt from Lowes. I haven't used the DeWalt much, but they seem OK.

[echo8287]

Metal cutting

I like the Makita abrasive blades too. But like Cope I've got a Lowes nearby and the last ones I got were Dewalt. I couldn't remember if the Dewalt guy said the speed was faster or slower on the metal cutting saw,but he did stress that it would be dangerous,of course he was wanting to sell some saws for about $500.00. He did cut a piece of solid 1X3 bar stock with the Dewalt and said it would cut that better than like tubing and such,pretty impressive.

[MAC702]

carbide v. abrasive

I use the DeWalt DW872 Multi-Cutter carbide saw in my shop and a DeWalt chop saw on my mobile trailer. Both have their uses, but I far prefer the carbide for mild steel and aluminum cutting. It does operate at a much lower rpm, so the blades should not be interchanged, though both are 14" with a 1" arbor. Know what steel you are cutting, though, you will hate replacing that $140 blade because you forgot that a bedframe is hardened steel. The ral beauty of the carbide is the heat, or rather lack thereof. You can immediately touch the cut portion of the steel without welding gloves. Plus it cuts twice as fast, too. DO NOT CUT CHAIN, or even bundles of materials. They will spin and flop and break blades. But for normal use, it is the best saw you can have, and I've got them all. My newest is the 18-volt DeWalt 6-3/4" metal cutting carbide circular saw. If the price of the blades is a barrier, you will eat more than that in abrasive blades before the carbide goes dull. And I find them on eBay for between 60 and 90 dollars brand new. Just for info, Makita makes a 12-inch carbide metal cutting chop saw, but I've no experience with it.

[qualls]

If you are going to do much cutting of tubing or mild steel, you will be happier with a power bandsaw or hacksaw. No sparks to set your clothes on fire or get in your eye, hacksaw and bandsaw blades last probably 20 times longer than abrasive blades, and you can start a big piece cutting and leave it in the saw while it cuts off - it will cut off by itself. Savings in saw blades alone will soon pay for a $150 to $175 power band saw. After I got one I traded my chop saw off. The hand-held bandsaw (Milwalkee makes one ) is great for small pieces, is super fast, but costs more ($279 to $300). One trip to the emergency room with a flake of hot steel in your eye will pay for either one.

[Charles Sand]

related question

First, Qualls, try using safety goggles.

By the way, what kind of circular saw uses the diamond drive?
I have seen many a circular saw blade with a diamond cut out, but have never seen a saw that uses it.
Thanks.

[Bob S2]

I've got a cheap harbor freight chop saw, 59 bucks if I remember correct. Blade was not included. I buy the blades at the local ace hardware, and so far I've been very pleased. I think it was less than 10 bucks. Accuracy is not in the same ballpark as my dewalt (wood) compound miter saw, but it's not horrible either. One thing to note, I encountered a lot of wobbling of the blade when I first put it on. I took it off, wiped the mount shaft and blade hole off, rotated it 90 degrees, and then tightened it a lot more than I did the first time. 99.9 percent of the wobbling is gone. I think I just didn't have it tight enough. Try taking off the blade, wiping it down, maybe some little fleck of something got in there and made it not tighten down straight. Or maybe it just needs tightening.
One thing I'm surprised at is the heat generated by the cutting. When I cut mild steel square tubing, it leaves melted steel smeared on the trailing edges of the tubing! Even when going slow.
I've made 50 -60 cuts in the 1/8 square mild steel tubing so far, and you wouldn't know it to look at the blade. I can't see any wear, so that's pretty good for less than 10 bucks. Overall I'm pleased with the cheap chop saw. I bought if figuring it's gonna live a bad life in the dust of cutting bricks, steel, stuff like that, so why buy something expensive.
Hey, one other quick thing - check and see if the blade is for metal. They make ones that look identical but are made for masonry and concrete.
So far I'm happy! Hope this helps!
--Bob

[BobCaesar]

Chop Saws all blades are NOT the same

Be VERY careful, in fact - DO NOT try to use carbide saw blades in a abrasive chop saw! Your 14" chop saw spins at about 3,800 rpm & the carbide metal cutting blade is intended to operate at 1,300, maybe 1,500 rpm! You'll get a facefull!

Ck out the Dewalt model 872 - Multi Saw (& other brands) if you really want a carbide blade. They are super, but cost about double an abrasive chop saw, AND the blades (which can be resharpened) cost $125+.