Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Champion 16 Running Gear

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Champion 16 Running Gear

    The following images are of the running gear I made for my Champion 16. Works good on hard surface or place in trailer and you're mobile. Loops on front, back and sides are for tie-downs.

    Dave
    "Some days you're the dog, some days you're the fire hydrant"

  • #2
    Nearly welded.
    "Some days you're the dog, some days you're the fire hydrant"

    Comment


    • #3
      Blasted and painted.
      "Some days you're the dog, some days you're the fire hydrant"

      Comment


      • #4
        HI DAVE.......... NICE JOB.......... I LIKE THE FIRE EXTINGUISHER AND THE THE CABLE HOLDERS...........HOW LONG ARE YOUR CABLES...........ROCK......................
        [email protected]LLERWELDS.COM

        Comment


        • #5
          Champion 16 Running Gear

          More images.
          "Some days you're the dog, some days you're the fire hydrant"

          Comment


          • #6
            Champion 16 Running Gear

            Last image.
            "Some days you're the dog, some days you're the fire hydrant"

            Comment


            • #7
              Champion 16 Running Gear

              Leads are:

              50' + 15' for ground (connector between) and 50' + 20' (connector between) for the stinger.

              I generally use just the 15' and 20' for close-in work.

              Dave
              "Some days you're the dog, some days you're the fire hydrant"

              Comment


              • #8
                Dave,
                Nice setup. I like the cable hangers. I'll post some pics of my Champ 16 setup when I get a chance.

                How do you like doing TIG with the champ? I have found not having a remote for the current is a pain.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Champion 16

                  Will,

                  Yes, it's a pain. I've been around in a big circle. I have been told there is no way to wire a remote in.

                  Dave
                  "Some days you're the dog, some days you're the fire hydrant"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    HI GUYS.........WELL IT IS TRY WE DON'T OFFER A REMOTE FOR THE UNITS.................ANYMORE.............HOWEVER YOU ARE NOT IN THE DARK JUST YET.........PERHAPS THERE IS A WAY........IF YOU GET A LOCAL ELECTRICIAN TO WIRE THIS IN FOR YOU I CAN TELL YOU HOW TO DO IT.............THIS IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY....... IT CAN BE DONE BUT WILL REQUIRE SOME MODIFICATIONS.......... A COUPLE HOLES DRILLED IN THE SHEET METAL.............ETC....... WILL TAKE ABOUT 2 HOURS OR SO DEPENDING ON SKILL...... AND ABOUT 200.00 USA FUNDS TO MAKE COMLETE............IT WILL BE NO FOOT PEDAL JUST A REMOTE THAT YOU TAKE TO THE TIG AREA WITH YOU AND LAY DOWN..............A FOOT PEDAL WILL NOT WORK............THINK ABOUT IT AND LET ME KNOW.............ROCK
                    [email protected]LDS.COM

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Champion 16

                      Rock,

                      You bet I'm interested. I had all but given up. I have made numerous calls and "in-persons" regarding this subject. Foot control would be best but "other" would be better than none. What's different about foot control?

                      Tell me more.

                      Thanks.

                      Dave
                      "Some days you're the dog, some days you're the fire hydrant"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        DAVE.......... FOOT CONTROL TAKES 6 WIRE'S YOU DON'T HAVE THE CAPABILITY OF 6 WIRES ONLY 3 OR IN SOME INSTANCES ONLY 2 AVAILABLE..............THINK ABOUT IT OVER THE WEEKEND........ROCK..........[email protected]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well, I guess I am interested too....must be a major modification if it costs $200. But I want to see what I'm getting into first.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You can get 3 prong twist lock(male and female), three pole double throw switch, a reostate for your machine, a metal box(HANDIE BOX) to mount the reo (drill cooling holes), 50 foot of 12/3. Mount sw on face plate, move wires from reo to center poles of sw run wires from sw to reo on the outer poles, opposite poles go to remote female plug( mount to side panel). Wire plug(male),12/3, and Handie box with reo mounted together.BE SURE TO MAINTAIN THE CORRECT WIRE HOOK UP THROUGH OUT. I HAVE DONE THIS MOD TO BOTH LINCOLN AND MILLERS. IT WORKS.
                            XMT 300CC/CV (yes it still works)
                            Bobcat 225, Hobart Hefty CC/CV wire feeder, Profax spool gun,Victor & Smith O/A, Lincoln Tombstone(sold), Airco HF box (old Miller) MM175, IR 4KW gen set,all paid for, all work. My newest addition MM130 salvaged from a Kitrina flood area. Cleaned up and works great. . Just added a Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC, total cost to repair both less than $200.00, they both work great...another Katrina cast off.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Another way to move a Champ 16 around. I put mine on a trailer so I can get it around the farm where it is needed. I added a couple of cable hangers and some helmet hooks.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X