hump in the sump for the pump...........

[Bertieboy]

Im not being picky but, would it be better, stress wise, to bolt it up to an old upside down block, before making the cutout and doing all the welds etc whilst braced in that position? I know on the farm that might not be possible and be a bit overkill....but if you were serious and it was a race engine? then again, with a pump like that, loosing your oil through a crack/ fracture, would be serious enough !!or is the flexability of the whole sump going to take care of this issue? just a thought...................please be gentle!!....lol.........Pete...................... ...in OZ

[Bertieboy]

ooops......

ummmm....sorry about that fellas......havent been here for a while....this was supposed to be a reply to the sump thread.......must have pushed the wrong button.............go on.............give me the "poor guy,hes from australia" thingy, go on, I can handle it....bring it on..hahahh............anyway why Im here I might as well post a pic of an engine crane base that I made, as a friend gave me a new upper part of a 2 ton crane.........it still cost me about half the price of a new engine crane as I had to buy a hydraulic ram and steel, wheels etc.....but at least its strong and hasnt got those crappy 1.5 inch wheels that love to get stuck in the lines in your concrete backyard. I had to step it up though as the rear obviously needs to swivel....cheers, Pete...................................now its time for those engine swaps!

[Bertieboy]

crane

close up.........the box has 3mm wall thickness....not to heavy, not to light.........

[Thomas Harris]

Whoa....that post title almost sounds like some annoying song my son would listen to!

[Sberry]

As long as you can make the pan gasket seal again thats all that matters. One reason for strong oil pans on a car would be strength from road damage and mostly from corrosion. This is a stationary engine and if it would keep the oil there a plastic jug would work for that matter. The only hole I cut in the thing is a return hole in the bottom. The new piece is merely a cap or more like a cup over the old pan. Distortion and basic structure are changed very little. These engines have protection switches on them for loss of oil or pump pressure and over temp.

[boilerman]

bolt it up and do what u got to do ....at lest that way u know it stayed true

[Guest]

Re: crane

Originally posted by Bertieboy
close up.........the box has 3mm wall thickness....not to heavy, not to light.........

G'Day, bert...nice looking job...that'll never pack a sad on ya mate!

[Bertieboy]

Thanks...........Actually, I have a question to run by you fellas.......When the boom extends out, obviously it can only handle less weight and the 4 positions are 2ton, 1.5ton, 1ton, .5ton.........now if I made an extension boom that replaces the existing slip in section, and it was longer....say, to where the next imaginary position would be, would its lift capacity then be .25/250klg? I know the tip over factort is important, thats why the legs are slightly longer...to allow for the extra length..........sometimes when moving parts around, diffs, gearboxes etc, I need that extra reach.........and by the way, thats my girlfriends little darling, ruby, bull terrior cross, she doesnt like missing out on anything !!cheers, Pete..............in OZ

[Bertieboy]

sorry for the crappy pics......I need a new camera........

[Franz]

Bertie, that crane is based on a 3rd class lever, witch offers the worst mechanicle advantage.
Making the boom longer will lower the lifting capacity, and can also cause serious problems with boom bending if you have the hydraulic force in the jack to force the issue.
Tipover could easily occurr if the hook gets out past the wheels, unless you employ counterweights. Things can get nasty real quick with lifting booms as the laws of physics haven't been repealed yet.

[lranch]

Krikey, no bloomin flix of the shela? Oh well. Just a rough estimate here, but I would'nt go more than a very few inches past your front rollers on your lightest hole. 6" max at lowest weight rating+ counter weight for pad bumps. If you need more reach/weight I would suggest "Cherry Picker II" The wrath of Cherry.

[Bertieboy]

OK....Thanks for the info guys....I wont be to greedy with the extra length........1 foot max, that should be ok.....cheers, Pete