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  • ok i i changed up my cap a bit i found a orifice that was on my gas grills side burner i used the orifice and nob to control the fire and than made a pipe cap to fit it in and drilled air holes as vents or the venturi i got the blue flame i wanted out of it but there is still some yellow im not sher if its anything to worry about im going to post an attachment of it and the cap but my computer is not working atm and its not letting me post the pics. im thinking i might need another hole in the cap for air so i can get blue flames but just wanted to post hear first before i screw things up to bad. i will post the pics maybe in the morning if my computer works

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    • first pic is when it in on low second is when it is wide open third is off the venturi

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      • Jeff's CNC plasma cutting

        Hi smoker, I hate to tell you this but the pipe cap that you have the orifice attached to will not work like a venturi, so, you have no or very little venturi effect, this is one thing that boykjo is doing wrong in his pipeburner build. You need to use a bell reducer. As was mentioned before, please read my post on building a better burner, more o2, and do the research on Bernoullis Principle, this will explain how a venturi works, you will get there it all just takes time, Jeff.
        Last edited by jeff-; 10-13-2010, 01:36 PM. Reason: word
        sigpicJeff's CNC Plasma Cutting

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        • These links are for building forge burners but not much difference between them and your burner with flame coming out small holes spaced along length of burner pipe. Principle of venture burner is the same.

          The big difference is yours doesn't work for many reasons.
          Including to much air restriction cause low O2 in mix.
          Small orifice in propane jet or not enough propane pressure cause not enough fuel and weak jet to pull in air.

          Your only getting weak flame out of maybe 4 small burner holes. Made right with enough fuel would have short flame out of all burner holes at low setting. With no or very little air in mix will have yellow flame. With more air in mix will have white to blue flame.

          You can use a low pressure or higher pressure regulator and get good results only lower pressure requires larger orifice, burner pipe and burner holes. Home propane gas and natural gas stoves and grills often use real low pressure about 6 inches of water column pressure. Using higher gas pressure is easier to get large flame and heat output for your burners crude design.

          http://ronreil.abana.org/design1.shtml
          http://metalcast.boorman.us/reil_1.html
          http://www.myheap.com/book/chapter-0...reilburner.php
          http://www.hybridburners.com/
          http://drummermetalcrafts.blogspot.c...il-burner.html

          Much easier and safer to buy ready made burner parts.

          Comment


          • havent posted in a while but came to my pipe burner build and read what has been going on here. Let me say I didnt work at a company for 12 years that repaired commercial kitchen equipment. I didnt Work with LP, nat gas, steam and electrical equipment, and I wasnt certified by CFESA as a master tech and didnt have much experience in the field and I am no scientist in building pipe burners but I have built a pipe burner that requires the most simplest hardware that can be bought at your local hardware store for a few dollars and be built with a few simple tools. I have posted specific instructions how to build a pipe burner. If you follow these instructions your pipe burner will burn perfectly. As you can see I have posted pics and pictures are good as it can get. If you deviate from the instructions there is not a problem with boykjo's design. It is a problem with not being able to follow directions. I have helped many locals build new pipe burners for their rigs and all are satisfied with much better results. And as for JEFFY. stop telling everyone whats wrong with my design and stop walking over my thread............................. Since your the expert, start your own thread!
            sigpic
            Miller trailblazer 301G
            Miller S22P12 feeder w/ss case
            K&K 300 amp 15' .035-.045 (Bernard)
            Miller HF-251D-1, Weldcraft AC torch pkg
            Hobart HH187
            Harris DLX STLWKR
            O/A & chemolene
            WARNING These stunts are performed either by professionals or under the supervision of professionals. I insist no one attempt, recreate, or re-enact any activities performed.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by boykjo View Post
              havent posted in a while but came to my pipe burner build and read what has been going on here. Let me say I didnt work at a company for 12 years that repaired commercial kitchen equipment. I didnt Work with LP, nat gas, steam and electrical equipment, and I wasnt certified by CFESA as a master tech and didnt have much experience in the field and I am no scientist in building pipe burners but I have built a pipe burner that requires the most simplest hardware that can be bought at your local hardware store for a few dollars and be built with a few simple tools. I have posted specific instructions how to build a pipe burner. If you follow these instructions your pipe burner will burn perfectly. As you can see I have posted pics and pictures are good as it can get. If you deviate from the instructions there is not a problem with boykjo's design. It is a problem with not being able to follow directions. I have helped many locals build new pipe burners for their rigs and all are satisfied with much better results. And as for JEFFY. stop telling everyone whats wrong with my design and stop walking over my thread............................. Since your the expert, start your own thread!
              Sorry boykjo, I had no malice of forethought to your build, and I did say it was a good build , as for posting my own thread, I did, many people on this forum agreed with me. I did not trash your post, I only made it better. My only concern is to keep people from getting sick from unburnt gases who don't have the same knowledge as you do , you were not there to help people through problems they had when they tried to build your burner. Improving upon your ideal, is a compliment to you, nothing less. Improving upon an ideal is what made this country strong. One other thing I should say is, wouldn't you want to listen to a master technician [who you said was an expert] who knows the subjects in's and out's, and then, take your knowledge and mine to build a more than perfect burner? And again I am sorry that you think I was trashing your thread, have a good one, Jeff.
              sigpicJeff's CNC Plasma Cutting

              Comment


              • My burner experiences are this,

                Currently I currently have two burners in my smoker, 1 1/4 inside diameter with a 2" bell for the venturi, the pipes are 40" long. I started my slots 10" from the venturi and ended 4" from the end of the pipe, my slots were made with a portaband saw and are the depth of the blade, 1/2, and spaced every 3/4 of an inch. I used a .063 (1/16th) venturi hole, when I stepped up to a 3/32 hole, I had a yellow flame as I had too much gas. In most cases of homemade burners, I have found that people have too large of an orifice hole and have a yellow flame. I find the bandsaw to be the easiest way to make the holes and it gives a great flame. I use a low pressure regulator to operate both burners.

                WARNING: For smokers you need to either have a thermal couple that will turn off your gas supply if the flame goes out or some type of air holes in the bottom where the unburned gas can go so that it does not go into the fire box which means BOOM. If you get too much smoke in the cooking area, the smoke puts out the flame and then either you open the door and BOOM as O2 is introduced or the gas goes into the firebox and BOOM. There are a lot of stories of kabooms on the bbq forums, please be careful!

                For those reasons, I won't lend my smoker to anyone. I now have my air inlet into the firebox locked down so that it cannot be opened enough to put out the burners. Great thread, just read as much as you can and be careful.

                Comment


                • New to Forum

                  I am new to this forum and have been following all the threads to the pipe burner build instructions. I am in the process of building two pig cookers out of old fuel oil tanks. The tanks/cooker sits upright just as it would if it were holding fuel oil (on its legs), the cookers are about 70% complete and I am at a point where I am begining to make the burner. There is alot of good information on this build from everyone, the most important is to build it right and to build it safe! My question, and this is to anyone who has made an upright cooker...How high off the bottom of the tank did you mount your burner assembly and have you had any issues of grease fire/flare-ups while cooking your hogs. While I do have a hole drilled at the base of the tank to drain run-off of grease, there is still alot of grease coming off the hog while it's roasting. If you mount the pipe burner too close to the bottom of the tank you risk catching the grease on fire. Your advise is appreciated.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by benkapitanec View Post
                    I am new to this forum and have been following all the threads to the pipe burner build instructions. I am in the process of building two pig cookers out of old fuel oil tanks. The tanks/cooker sits upright just as it would if it were holding fuel oil (on its legs), the cookers are about 70% complete and I am at a point where I am begining to make the burner. There is alot of good information on this build from everyone, the most important is to build it right and to build it safe! My question, and this is to anyone who has made an upright cooker...How high off the bottom of the tank did you mount your burner assembly and have you had any issues of grease fire/flare-ups while cooking your hogs. While I do have a hole drilled at the base of the tank to drain run-off of grease, there is still alot of grease coming off the hog while it's roasting. If you mount the pipe burner too close to the bottom of the tank you risk catching the grease on fire. Your advise is appreciated.

                    If you are frying in lard or grease you need a way to control the temperature of the grease and keep it at 400 degrees F., that is a good all around temp to fry anything. Grease will flash and catch fire around 500 to 550 degrees F., depending on if it is vegetable or animal fat, if the grease catches fire you do not want to try to put it out with water, the water will turn to steam and cause the grease to splash up and boil over and could severely hurt someone. As to burner spacing it should be between 4" to 6" from the bottom of the tank, it really depends on the B.T.U. of the burner. Two words of caution, do not have the burner on with no grease in the tank if you do it will warp and crack the bottom of the tank witch will cause a fire and do not use any brass in pipe drain or filter system, this will cause a type of poison to form and contaminate the grease, could make someone very sick or kill someone, just things to avoid, hope this helps, Jeff.
                    sigpicJeff's CNC Plasma Cutting

                    Comment


                    • Burner placement

                      I'm not deep frying the hog, I'm roasting. The hog will be placed on a rotiserrie that will be motorized or manual, I havent decided yet. That being said, I was looking for advice on correct placement of the burner. How far off the bottom of the tank should it be placed with-out catching any grease on fire? Also, I'm confused as to the different approaches to the burner build, specifically the venturi. Some are drilling 4 holes in the pipe cap and others are using a bell reducer. If you use the bell reducer where do you place the vent holes?

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by benkapitanec View Post
                        I'm not deep frying the hog, I'm roasting. The hog will be placed on a rotiserrie that will be motorized or manual, I havent decided yet. That being said, I was looking for advice on correct placement of the burner. How far off the bottom of the tank should it be placed with-out catching any grease on fire? Also, I'm confused as to the different approaches to the burner build, specifically the venturi. Some are drilling 4 holes in the pipe cap and others are using a bell reducer. If you use the bell reducer where do you place the vent holes?
                        You need to know that those are not vent holes. They are inlet holes for the oxygen that will be drawn in and mixed with the fuel gas, IF you have a Venturi effect built into your burner. The bell reducer can be part of the Venturi effect with the drilled holes allowing the air(oxygen) to enter. Check the Bernouli principle ( part of the Venturi effect).

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by benkapitanec View Post
                          I'm not deep frying the hog, I'm roasting. The hog will be placed on a rotiserrie that will be motorized or manual, I havent decided yet. That being said, I was looking for advice on correct placement of the burner. How far off the bottom of the tank should it be placed with-out catching any grease on fire? Also, I'm confused as to the different approaches to the burner build, specifically the venturi. Some are drilling 4 holes in the pipe cap and others are using a bell reducer. If you use the bell reducer where do you place the vent holes?
                          Different approach entirely, if you look at an L.P. gas pit such as you could buy at home depot you will notice the burner is mounted on the inside of the pit and the bottom of the pit is cut out [this is for secondary air for the burner to burn correctly], primary air flows into the burner by way of the bell reducer gas is directed through the bell reducer from the large end first then to the small end [at this point gas mixes with air and flows through the pipe] as mixture reaches the outside surface of the pipe it is ignited and the flame sits on the surface of the pipe at the holes or slots cut in the pipe. The bell reducer should be outside the pit and the body of the burner will be inside the pit, the burner being protected in one of two ways, holes or slots cut in the burner will point to the bottom of the pit or they can face up with angle iron above the burner to keep grease and debris from plugging burner up. If you need more info click on my name, go to my profile and look at the post I made for a better burner, this will explain much of how a burner works, hope this clears up the confusion, Jeff.
                          sigpicJeff's CNC Plasma Cutting

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by benkapitanec View Post
                            I am new to this forum and have been following all the threads to the pipe burner build instructions. I am in the process of building two pig cookers out of old fuel oil tanks. The tanks/cooker sits upright just as it would if it were holding fuel oil (on its legs), the cookers are about 70% complete and I am at a point where I am begining to make the burner. There is alot of good information on this build from everyone, the most important is to build it right and to build it safe! My question, and this is to anyone who has made an upright cooker...How high off the bottom of the tank did you mount your burner assembly and have you had any issues of grease fire/flare-ups while cooking your hogs. While I do have a hole drilled at the base of the tank to drain run-off of grease, there is still alot of grease coming off the hog while it's roasting. If you mount the pipe burner too close to the bottom of the tank you risk catching the grease on fire. Your advise is appreciated.

                            3 inches................. no grease fires or flare ups .......... I would drill another hole at the other end of the cooker to allow grease to drain when your cooker is on unlevel ground and pitched in either direction and also to add 02 into the cooker so your burner will stay lit. I have a 2 inch hole drilled at each end on the bottom side of the drum
                            Last edited by boykjo; 01-29-2011, 12:55 PM. Reason: add info
                            sigpic
                            Miller trailblazer 301G
                            Miller S22P12 feeder w/ss case
                            K&K 300 amp 15' .035-.045 (Bernard)
                            Miller HF-251D-1, Weldcraft AC torch pkg
                            Hobart HH187
                            Harris DLX STLWKR
                            O/A & chemolene
                            WARNING These stunts are performed either by professionals or under the supervision of professionals. I insist no one attempt, recreate, or re-enact any activities performed.

                            Comment


                            • Question about the mats I see you using.

                              Question.....I see in several pics what looks like galvanized metal being used to make parts to be used in the cooker.

                              Now, I am no expert on the science of metallurgy, but, aren't the coatings used in making galvan zinc and tin? If so, wouldn't using that type of metal in a COOKING vessel be dangerous? I know stainless and copper is safe, along with cast iron. But once the flame of natural gas hits the elements in the galvanized metals....wouldnt there be some kind of transfer of the zinc and tin, and whatever else....INTO the food? Also, I know Im gonna kill the spelling of this, but isnt "fazz-gene" gas released as a result of high heat being applied to galvanized metal? ( please feel free to correct my spelling, Im good, but not perfect.)

                              Im not trying to start a fight here, there is enough of that going on already on this BBS, but it does come to mind that certain metals or coatings should be avoided for food prep.

                              If Im wrong....no biggie, Ill learn something. But If Im right, be careful... I wouldnt want to hear of someone being sick or hurt over this.

                              Comment


                              • Copper pots for years have been lined (plated) with Tin inside and used for cooking they were relined with Tin when old Tin wore off.

                                The real problem, Zinc is often contaminated with small amounts of Cadmium which is toxic. Drinking water has been collected from galvanized steel roofing on pacific islands for years before and after Cadmium hazards were known.

                                http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadmium_poisoning

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