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pipe burner build instructions

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  • cj06
    replied
    Originally posted by upgrader View Post
    I built the pipe burner with sawzall cuts every 1.5 inches and using high pressure reg. with a venturi mixer. I turn on propane and go through the pressures high and low with a lighter moving onto a couple of the cuts. The flame is being pushed up by the air inside but no constant flame. The pipe is 5' long. I even change the air intake size when trying different pressures. The reason I joined this site is because this post has been going on since 2007 and is full of knowledge. Hope someone is still looking here to help. I forgot to mention the pipe size is 1.25 OD and 1'' ID. I finally got a flame 2 days later but it doesn't leave the pipe.

    sounds to me that you are not getting enough gas !
    what size of orifice do you have , and what kind of regulator do you have ?

    Leave a comment:


  • ozarkie
    replied
    urch...There are a lot of pages in this thread, so I hope I'm not repeating a question about the cooker.

    Have you melted any tires with the setup as pictured? Reason for asking, is that it seems the cooker is REALLY close to your tires without any baffel or heat deflector to protect the tires. When I setup my burn barrel (55 gal. drum) for burning cardboard and paper, it gets so hot that I accidentally melted a Rubbermaid trash can set about 1-2 feet from the barrel when it was going good.

    Leave a comment:


  • upgrader
    replied
    can't get any flames

    I built the pipe burner with sawzall cuts every 1.5 inches and useing high pressure reg. with a venturi mixer. I turn on propane and go through the pressures high and low with a lighter moving onto a couple of the cuts. The flame is being pushed up by the air inside but no constant flame. The pipe is 5' long. I even change the air intake size when trying differant pressures. The trason I joined this site is because this post has been going on since 2007 and is full of knowledge. Hope someone is still looking here to help. I forgot to mention the pipe size is 1.25 OD and 1'' ID. I finally got a flame 2 days later but it doesnt leave the pipe.
    Last edited by upgrader; 11-02-2012, 12:44 PM. Reason: tried differant method

    Leave a comment:


  • Fire055
    replied
    Thermostat

    I am looking to make this typer burner controled by a thermostat. I have seen posts on other websites where a grill or gas smoker had a Modulating oven thermostat installed. Specifically a part # WB20K10013 thermostat. I will be using a pilot light with it also for safety (if pilot goes out, no gas will be allowed to enter tube). With the use of the variable pressure regulated suggested in this thread, would this work. Or woule anyone have any suggestions of a set and forget type setup??

    Leave a comment:


  • urch55
    replied
    Fire Box venting

    This cooker still uses a fire box and real wood. A retired friend of mine who is a welder had this job come in to him and he wanted me to use my plasma cutter to cut a bigger opening in the cooking chamber for the fire box vent. It was so small his customer said he could not get the cooker hot enough. So I enlarged it 2-1/2 times as big. Now he will fabricate a vent to match the opening and he will cut the new opening in the fire box with his torch.. Nice quick job for pocket money....




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  • billbong
    replied
    Originally posted by SWQIB View Post
    I just wanted to say thanks for a great post, I have built 2 of these for my stickburner, the first one I was happy with, the second not so happy.
    I did drill out the orifice 1 wire size up and increased the air intake holes slightly to achieve desired results.

    1st burner low


    1st burner high


    1st burner down the middle


    2nd burner low


    2nd burner high


    I tried the same high pressure hose from the first pipe burner, should I get a low pressure line or one with a smaller orifice?
    Any suggestions?

    Here is a link to my build
    "Frankensmoker"
    Hi, you have to be out of your mind or high on something.....the can of WD40 next to the flaming pipe burner is a bomb waiting to go off........God must be on your side.
    Ian.

    Leave a comment:


  • conehead396
    replied
    Flame Not Lighting All the Way Across

    I am working on a 1" burner following the instructions here. Mine is about 70 inches lone, and I used a band saw to cut the slots on 1 1/2 inch centers.

    On my test outside of the grill everything seems to be working fine, I can adjust the flame to get it blue with yellow pips and I can turn the regular or needle valve at the air venturie to adjust the flame from small to way too much.

    The only problem I have is lighting it. I can light it but the flame will not walk across the length of the pipe. I have to use my lighter to get the middle and other end going.

    I friend suggested that I need to drill out my orifice (#61) to a bigger size for more volume. What do you guys think.

    Will Post pics later today.

    Leave a comment:


  • troughboy
    replied
    Flame always goes out

    I have a smoker that I purchased from a custom builder and it is set up similar to ones I've seen on here. The pipe burner is made out of 1 1/4" black pipe and is a little over 60" long and has the slits in it exactly like how your instructions show.

    Our problem is that our flame keeps going out when we turn the flow down real low. We are trying to get the temp down to that 225-250 sweet spot and can't get the flame to stay lit. We are pretty sure it is getting blown out by little gusts of wind. But shouldn't it be able to stand up to that?

    You mention using a High Pressure Regulator? Ours is attached with a low pressure regulator. Everything I've read says you should use low pressure for grills. high pressure is more necessary for things like turkey fryers.

    Your pictures also indicate the slots on the underside of the pipe? does that have any effect? ours is situated with the slits up.

    Appreciate any advice.

    troughboy

    Leave a comment:


  • urch55
    replied
    Originally posted by STSCSGUNNY View Post
    I am planning on using 1 " pipe with slots cut every 3 inches vice every 1.5 inches due to the longer lengt to accomodate the smoker we are retrofitting for a gas heat source..... I plan on using the regulator and hose from a donor turkey fryer... Does this sound like it will work? Thanks Gunny
    Yes it will work. I used the regulator, gas C0CK, and venturi from a turkey fryer. However, I had slits about 1.5 to 2" for two 5 foot burners teed and ball valves in order to use just one for warming. Used 1" sch. 40 pipe. If you cut slits every 3 inches you can always cut more if need be..

    Leave a comment:


  • STSCSGUNNY
    replied
    Pipe Burner Build Instructions

    I found black iron pipe at Lowes which apparently the same as black steel pipe. I understand that it is coated with paint which is probably enamel..... I assume that this would not be an issue for use in a smoker as it could be burned off during a test burn session prior to using the grill. Additionally, I am planning on using 1 " pipe with slots cut every 3 inches vice every 1.5 inches due to the longer lengt to accomodate the smoker we are retrofitting for a gas heat source..... I plan on using the regulator and hose from a donor turkey fryer... Does this sound like it will work? Thanks Gunny

    Leave a comment:


  • AndyA
    replied
    Originally posted by tegnol View Post
    I am building a burner just like the one shown on this thread, the only thing I am having a problem with is where to find that king of gas oraphus. Where can I get one that would work
    Most guys use mig tips. You should be able to find these at any welding supply store.

    If all else fails, you can always make your own. I make mine by beating the end of some 1/4" copper tubing closed, and then drilling a small hole (use something like a #70 wire size drill bit).

    See http://nanosleep.dyndns.org/griddle/
    And http://nanosleep.dyndns.org/deepFryer/

    You could also just drill the hole in a brass cap or plug that's already threaded to match your pipes.

    Leave a comment:


  • tegnol
    replied
    burner

    I am building a burner just like the one shown on this thread, the only thing I am having a problem with is where to find that king of gas oraphus. Where can I get one that would work

    Leave a comment:


  • Thumper5961
    replied
    Here in SC and NC if you can think you can build a cooker you cut it you burn the crap out of it I like split oak for about 4-5 hour and build it. I know alot of cookers built out of fuel oil barrels and old lp tanks they last forever and hold heat super... Trace elements get burt out after several hours of burning like urch55 said.. Hey any concerns come on down will have one of the best pig pickins you ever ate

    Leave a comment:


  • montec313
    replied
    u joint

    i was thinking about doing a u joint outta 1'' black pipe. the two main pieces would be 36'' long connected to a 90degree with 2 1/2 pipin between the t joint. anyone think this would work.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    So gross

    Originally posted by urch55 View Post
    Darth,
    Lets not forget the rats that may show up to eat the scraps or lick off the grating. Rats do thier business every place so you have to heat the cooking chamber up to burn off any rat residue or "trace elements".
    This is why it is a good idea to wash off a soda/beer can before drinking. Rat wizz is hazardous to your health.

    How many of you drink soda from a can...fresh out of a vending machine?

    GROSS!!!!!


    lawls.

    Leave a comment:

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