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  • Air compressor tank rust?

    I noticed last night when I drained my air compressor that the water coming out was a bit red. Is there anything that can be done to keep the inside from rusting out? Seems like a little something added through the bottom bleeder hole could coat the area. Phosphoric acid? Rustoleum? Obviously it needs to harden before using the compressor. Or will the rust itself just form a protective layer?

  • #2
    There is always going to be heat build up when you compress air and condensation resulting when the air cools off inside the tank. It is this condensation in the form of water which will settle in the bottom of the tank and form rust. The only effective method to minimize all this is to install an automatic drain valve and let it blow off the water build up. I've got a solenoid valve on my I.R. compressor for this purpose. You can find them on E-Bay for 50-100 bucks. Your other option is to install a manual valve and blow off the water manually.
    Mike in Fort Wayne
    ________________
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    • #3
      http://www.everyaircompressor.com/as...d=FR79-CHP1352

      this keeps the water from getting in...
      Last edited by metallurgy; 04-24-2007, 11:08 AM.
      Metallurgy

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      • #4
        Originally posted by metallurgy View Post
        y'know, they do have water filter things that go on compressors so water dosen't get in them. they take the moisture out of the air. There is one on the big compressor here...:

        http://www.everyaircompressor.com/as...d=FR79-CHP1352

        Is it worth 100$?
        That is an outlet filter.. doesn't do jack with regards to keeping anything atmospheric from passing thru the pump into the tank.. it only reduces moisture and contaminants entering the hose.
        Additionally, if you're spraying paint, you also need another trap at the gun end of the hose.

        As previously mentioned the only practical method, for most, is draining the tank condensate.
        Last edited by old blue; 04-24-2007, 11:25 AM.
        Mike

        sigpic WHEELED VEHICLE SERVICE SINCE 1960

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        • #5
          Auto drain works best ( as so you dont forget to drain ) I have the Ingersoll Rand auto drain.

          You can put a a elbow with a pipe and a ball valve at the end to drain , not only is it easier to drain the tanks, the water sits in the pipe/drain and not in the bottom of the tank.
          Last edited by Roospike; 04-24-2007, 04:15 PM.
          Millermatic 210 "Big Blue"

          VICTOR SUPERRANGE

          OPTREL UVEX SATELLITE

          Miller SPECTRUM 625



          ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          "remember, spark production is not welding,
          a nice shiny cold bead, piled high, that i can knock off with a banana does not make you a weldor."
          Pumpkinhead

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          • #6
            Originally posted by metallurgy View Post
            http://www.everyaircompressor.com/as...d=FR79-CHP1352

            this keeps the water from getting in...

            I have the Ingersoll Rand set up like this for the main air line and i also have the CH set up you link to on my plasma cutter with the extra air control / gauge . I also have the motorguard filter set up on the plasma.
            Millermatic 210 "Big Blue"

            VICTOR SUPERRANGE

            OPTREL UVEX SATELLITE

            Miller SPECTRUM 625



            ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
            "remember, spark production is not welding,
            a nice shiny cold bead, piled high, that i can knock off with a banana does not make you a weldor."
            Pumpkinhead

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Roospike View Post
              Auto drain works best ( as so you dont forget to drain...
              We have one of these installed, works great...

              http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46960
              http://www.jhchoppers.com

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              • #8
                Originally posted by JHCHOPPERS View Post
                We have one of these installed, works great...

                http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46960
                With the Harbor Freight drains dont they have to get down to a lower pressure in the tank to open ? ( i cant remember for sure )

                I thought i was reading of the plastic lines breaking on theses HF units . Any problems with yours JHC from plastic lines ?
                Millermatic 210 "Big Blue"

                VICTOR SUPERRANGE

                OPTREL UVEX SATELLITE

                Miller SPECTRUM 625



                ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                "remember, spark production is not welding,
                a nice shiny cold bead, piled high, that i can knock off with a banana does not make you a weldor."
                Pumpkinhead

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Roospike View Post
                  I thought i was reading of the plastic lines breaking on theses HF units . Any problems with yours JHC from plastic lines ?
                  I changed out the plastic line that came with the unit with 1/4" copper tubing when initially setting up...auto drain unit works great and keeps the water in the tank emptied. The valve opens and stays open up to 20psi and then opens and closes every time the compressor cycles.
                  Nickoli
                  ~ OUCH...OUCH...#@&$ OUCH... That didn't take long to look at! ~

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Nickoli View Post
                    I changed out the plastic line that came with the unit with 1/4" copper tubing when initially setting up...auto drain unit works great and keeps the water in the tank emptied. The valve opens and stays open up to 20psi and then opens and closes every time the compressor cycles.
                    So when the compressor is 175 PSI and drops to 150 psi and the motor / pump kicks on it will open/cycle ? ............. and for how long ?

                    I heard of the lower pressure cycle but didnt know they did in the upper pressure.

                    The HF web site dont say what max pressure set up for the unit is (for the auto drain)......... I know there electric air line dryer is for only under 150 PSI so it wounldnt work on the bigger boy compressors.
                    Last edited by Roospike; 04-25-2007, 03:45 AM.
                    Millermatic 210 "Big Blue"

                    VICTOR SUPERRANGE

                    OPTREL UVEX SATELLITE

                    Miller SPECTRUM 625



                    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    "remember, spark production is not welding,
                    a nice shiny cold bead, piled high, that i can knock off with a banana does not make you a weldor."
                    Pumpkinhead

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Op , I found it. ( right under my nose ) So i guess it not for 2 stage compressors and/or over 145 PSI .


                      From there web site:
                      ************************************************** ************************************************** ******************
                      AUTOMATIC COMPRESSOR DRAIN KIT


                      Removes condensation without you having to give it another thought. Includes 1/4'' NPT street T, 1/4'' pet****, 1/4'' tube fitting x 1/8'' male NPT fitting and 8 ft. of 1/4'' 145 PSI polyurethane tubing.
                      Prevent the buildup of slime and tool-damaging particles
                      Extend the life of your compressor tank
                      Automatic clog-free discharge
                      High quality brass construction
                      ************************************************** ************************************************** *******************
                      Last edited by Roospike; 04-25-2007, 03:54 AM.
                      Millermatic 210 "Big Blue"

                      VICTOR SUPERRANGE

                      OPTREL UVEX SATELLITE

                      Miller SPECTRUM 625



                      ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                      "remember, spark production is not welding,
                      a nice shiny cold bead, piled high, that i can knock off with a banana does not make you a weldor."
                      Pumpkinhead

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The HF one has to re-set at about zero pressure, then stays open (allowing water to be pushed out) until 20 psi, at which time it snaps shut. Mine has worked beautifully for about three years. the plastic line it comes with gets soft when hot (as in - near the compressor!), and blows off. I replaced that line with some black line the local Compressor Repair shop uses. They call it "Brake Line".
                        I ahve VEY little water get into the rest of my cobbled-up system. The first filter is one of the big blue and chrome HF units with the gauge on it, then 25' of iron pipe with two 24" drop tubes with ball vales at the end, then another twin jar type seperator/filter where the hose hooks in. Never any moisture problems.
                        A good test is to point a blow gun at your dry concrete floor from about 8 -10" away and blow. You should not get any moisture. Then, do the same to the palm of your hand.
                        "Good Enough Never Is"

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Roospike View Post
                          I thought i was reading of the plastic lines breaking on theses HF units . Any problems with yours JHC from plastic lines ?
                          We got our kit for $6.99 when it was on sale. All we wanted was the pressure value, for the rest of the kit you can either use it or make up your own with copper tubing.
                          Last edited by JHCHOPPERS; 04-26-2007, 05:14 PM.
                          http://www.jhchoppers.com

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                          • #14
                            I would think that the cooling systems that many people have put together or can be purchased would do a good job of not allowing the water to accumulate at all in the tank. I know that there are times when my compressor doesn't run for several days. During those times any water that has condensed and accumulated in the bottom of my tank (I know there isn't that much from one cycling of the pump) is just sitting there. If it goes through a series of cooling lines the condensate collects in a location prior to reaching the tank where it is likely to do much less damage.

                            At least that's my take on it.

                            Dave
                            Still building my new old truck - see the progress!
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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Hotfoot View Post
                              T
                              A good test is to point a blow gun at your dry concrete floor from about 8 -10" away and blow. You should not get any moisture. Then, do the same to the palm of your hand.
                              This is not really a good practice. Safety guys are always harping about it. Think about a piece of crap in the line piercing your skin and then high-pressure air blowing into the cut:eek
                              This is not a high probability accident but it does happen. In my 30+ yrs in the trades I met one guy that had it happen. His arm was a shriveled mess. Dont blow hi-press at bare skin.

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