welding table suggestions

[bitternut]

I made up a small portable welding table and I need some suggestions on what to add before I paint it. So far I have a vise, worklight, bottom shelf, grinder hook and 4 plug receptacle with 20' extension cord. I plan on adding a couple more hooks but other than that I am out of ideas. Probably I will think of lots of additions about the time the paint is dry. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. I plan on using it for mig welding and for my future tig welder.

[bitternut]

Here is a picture of the vise. I think it is Rocky D's favorite vise. It was the last USA made vise they had at the orange box store.

[bitternut]

Here is another view. The top is 32" dia plate 3/4" thick.

[Franz]

Since I think I see pneumatic tires, may I strongly suggest fenders. Gobs of molten metal falling from the bench such as in O/A cutting, or hot stubs tend to have nasty effects on pneumatic tires.
You also might consider some square tubes welded to the bottom of the bench at 90 degree angles, so you can slide other tubes inside them, sort of like a Reese receiver. That will enable you to install and remove things like a third hand, as well as provide mounting for rod sheers and punches.
If it was mine, I'd weld on it for a while before painting, that way you'll work the bugs out before painting.

[cope]

Originally posted by bitternut
Here is a picture of the vise. I think it is Rocky D's favorite vise. It was the last USA made vise they had at the orange box store.

God looking bench. I would stop adding accessories before you run out of work space.

First thing I would do is flatten out the handle of that chipping hammer in the vise. Makes them easier to hold on to. As Franz said, add fenders for the tires and use it awhile before painting.

[Bob]

Might be room for a small pull out or swing out drawer under the table for tips, soap marker, etc.
A "towel rack" sticking below the table for C clamps?
Last thought was a socket for a vertical pipe to steady something vertical, pulls out and gets out of the way when not needed: hole in the tablel top, capped pipe welded down the side of one leg underneath?
2 cents

I like the small size. It will store easily.
Bob

[Sberry]

I agree about the paint, I have been adding stuff to mine for 10 years. C clamp rack is good idea and I have slots for squares. Mine never move so I really have them loaded though.

[Dave Haak]

bitternut,

Nice table! 32-inch diameter, the edge looks really good. Which method did you use to finish the edge?

Dave

[DaveD]

I like that table a lot. I'm just a home hobbyist welder.
I have a hole in my table to put a beach umbrella over it when welding outside on hot/sunny days. I just welded a short piece of pipe under the hole to give it stability. Also I'd drill and tap some holes for 1/2" bolts to clamp things with since that top is 3/4" thick.

[Bob]

Bitternut ...

I was busy composing a post about adding one of those peg-board screwdriver holders ... really handy for all sorts of stuff. I started to add a safety note about the plating on those holders and .... !!!! *&$#%^%$#

You said:
"Probably I will think of lots of additions about the time the paint is dry."

WHY ARE YOU PAINTING A WELDING TABLE???

Are you just exercising us???
Probably not but even if so, you are forgiven. This thread brought out lots of neat goodies to add to welding tables. Many could also be applied to welding carts.

No flame intended, good thread, nice table.
Bob

[Pat]

Franz,

Where did you get your thinking cap? I would like to know so I can get one just like it. The other day I made my welding table, and made an adapter plate that bolts to the top of it. The adapter is so I can use my Roper Whitney angle iron notcher and bender. I have been trying to figure out how I could mount the angle iron shear without having to bolt the table to the cement, but nothing came to mind. Then I saw your above comment about the Reese hitch receiver and bingo. I have some 2" X 2" X 1/4" square tubing that I can mount the shear to, then insert it into the hitch on my truck. I just hope the hitch can take the pressure, the handle for the shear is 72" long and I amagine there is considerable force involved here..........Thanks for the idea.

My table top is a 30" diameter 3/8" plate with a 4" piece of 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" X 1/4" square tube welded to the bottom center. This slips into the 3" square center post which is connected to the "H" pattern stand. All together there are 3 pieces which can be broken down when not in use, or to transport it. I am also going to make adapters for my vise and chop saw.

Bitternut,

That sure looks like one heavy duty table you have there. Any idea how much that sucker weighs?

[bitternut]

Naw!!! I'm not exercising you guys. I'm just trying to get some good ideas before painting ( top excluded ). It just doesn't look finished till its painted and I have enough other incomplete jobs. It seems that if I don't finish a job completely its a long time before I get back to it. In this case I guess I will delay painting as suggested. You guys came up with enough good ideas that I can keep busy tinkering for quite a while. I will be real careful with cutting and welding till I get those fenders built. Never gave that a thought.

Dave.......I wish I did have the equipment to cut the top but I can't take credit for making the cut. I picked the top up at my local steel supplier as scrap. He had two of them but I only bought the one. Probably should have bought them both. I got it for scrap price. I guess they were slugs cut out of a large plate. Here is a picture of the cut.

[Dave Haak]

Bitternut,

Thanks. I'd say you got a very good deal on the top.

Dave

[Franz]

Pat, it ain't so much a thinking cap as it is a remembering cap. When you've been at this craft for 40 years, you have seen a lot of ideas, both good and bad.
The rear bumper of my truck has a verticel receiver that holds the crane, I'm lazy and have a bad back. I'm pondering on adding a second verticle receiver on the other side of the bumper for vises and other things. I have to be a little careful with this truck cause it's a fiberglass body, and I ain't real keen on setting it on fire.
Shears will work just fine on a receiver tube, and so will Witney punches. You can always put a jack under the receiver when you are using either tool. The important thing is to always remember to pin the tube into the receiver, I've watched guys who didn't have time to pin a tool in wear the tool a couple times.