Extension cable project.

[JeramyK]

Ok, well I figured this would be a project for me. I'm not a well versed electrician. So I figured I'd ask for some advice.

I need to fabricate and/or purchase an extension cord for my MM210. In my garage I only have a 3 prong outlet. (curved prongs that twist and lock) I'd like to make a 50ft cable that would allow me to reach anywhere in my garage and also a good distance onto my driveway.

I know I can buy the connectors at Home Depot or Lowes but I'm unsure what cabling to use. Anyone have any recommendations ?
Also, is it ok to just screw the bare wires to the connectors ? Or should I buy some crimp-on ends for the wire ?

Thanks in advance.

-Jeramy

[cope]

I bought 50' of 8-3 power cord for my 250 amp machine. You can check your owner's manual for recommended size for the 210. These people have several sizes w/o ends and ship promptly.

http://www.weldingdepot.com/?source=overture

[jason]

JeramyK, the type of wire you will need is called "S" cord. It can be obtained at an electrical supply house by the foot. I'm pretty sure Home Depot only has it up to about 16 or maybe 14 gage. You will want 8-3 (8 gage 3 conductor) or even larger if you want a real long one. The thing is, you can probably buy one cheaper than you can build one. I bought a 25' 8-3 for $50 a couple years ago because even though I already had one end for it, I still couldn't build it that cheap.

Jason
________
Honda CBR250RR

[morpheus]

I bought 50' of 8-3 at home depot or lowe's and put the ends on it. quite pricy stuff.

here's a ready made 25' if that's what you're after, it's also sold on eBay by this same company I think.

http://www.brwelder.com/indextemplate.cfm?file=shop/detail.cfm&ID=551&SubCategory=41

- jack

[Bertieboy]

watch it though........I recently completed a electrical testing course, so I can test what we tools, etc, that we hire out work. The teacher was an old tradesman who warned against anything longer that 30 metres, for most tools.................also at work we sell our high pressure washers, that are labelled saying they have a cut off switch if the resistance gets to high also around 20/30 metres.............but then we have 240 volt here in OZ...will that make a difference?....................or is the solution to run heavy gauge wire?.............I thought that 30 metres was the limit in general ..........but then again we sell thin crappy cords at work........which is Bunnings.........the stores are a copy of your Home depot....anyway I could be wrong, Im not real keyed up on electrical things.........cheers, Pete.....................in OZ.

[cope]

Originally posted by morpheus
I bought 50' of 8-3 at home depot or lowe's and put the ends on it. quite pricy stuff.

here's a ready made 25' if that's what you're after, it's also sold on eBay by this same company I think.

http://www.brwelder.com/indextemplate.cfm?file=shop/detail.cfm&ID=551&SubCategory=41

- jack

Jack, the Welding Depot sells the same cord, but if you buy the ends right, making the cord up comes out a bit cheaper. All depends on whether or not you want to do the work.

[Sberry]

Bertie, There is not really a limit on cords, its more of a practicality issue. It is dependant on wire size. At some point the wire would need to be so large at low voltages that it would be pricey and awkward. He was warning against normal cords and heavier power tools at considerable distances and in a short course he gave some simple info to make it easier to understand. Higher voltages help reduce current flow rates and lesson loads, which lessen resistance. Just like a water hose, if you want to go farther a larger hose will carry more water at a higher pressure than a small one.

[morpheus]

Originally posted by cope


Jack, the Welding Depot sells the same cord, but if you buy the ends right, making the cord up comes out a bit cheaper. All depends on whether or not you want to do the work.

you're right. I knew I'd seen that somewhere else also. pretty pricey for what it is in my opinion ....

- jack

[Bob]

JeramyK,

There are at least a few variations of the twist lock plugs. Be sure you get the right ones. You do want to match the wire positions on both ends (ie prong 1 on one end goes to the socket for prong 1 on the other end). There is also a standard as to which color wire goes to which prong ... but if all your wires are the same size and type, that is not critical for the extention cord.
If you are changing the plug on the welder you should get the "hot", "return" and "ground" in the proper positions.

Bob

[Sberry]

Remember that the hot leads are interchangable on that machine but the equipment ground must terminate in the right place. If you are coming from the main entrance panel it can go to either the neutral bar (preffered by me) or to the equipment ground bar if there is one,, but if it comes from a 4 wire subfed type panel it must go to the equip bar.

[DaveD]

If you know anybody that removes/installs mobile homes you might be able to get the power cable they use from the mobile home to the meter head. I has someone give me a 50' chunk years ago, I think it is 4 wire#6 S cord (or something close to that). It is one heavy pain in the butt extension cord. I put a 50A plug on one end and a steel box with a 50A receptacle on the other end. Only used 3 of the 4 wires. The price was right and it works like a charm.

[JeramyK]

I think I may end up installing a new dedicated outlet. I did some more homework on my current wiring layout. The existing socket is a NEMA L6-20R which is only rated at 20amps. I don't think this will be good enough for the welder. Currently I run my air compressor off of it and I was hoping it would serve double duty. I guess it's not going to work out that way though.

To install the new outlet I'll need to run about 15' to the breaker box. Any suggestions on wiring and what breaker would be ideal ? I didn't see any Romex cabling that was 8-3. Unless I just didn't look hard enough.

I've done this once before when I ran a dedicated line to my home theater system. So I'm somewhat familiar with the installation. I just need to make sure I get the right components.

Thanks again for all of the input. It is greatly appreciated.

-Jeramy

[cope]

Originally posted by JeramyK
I think I may end up installing a new dedicated outlet. I did some more homework on my current wiring layout. The existing socket is a NEMA L6-20R which is only rated at 20amps. I don't think this will be good enough for the welder. Currently I run my air compressor off of it and I was hoping it would serve double duty. I guess it's not going to work out that way though.

To install the new outlet I'll need to run about 15' to the breaker box. Any suggestions on wiring and what breaker would be ideal ? I didn't see any Romex cabling that was 8-3. Unless I just didn't look hard enough.

I've done this once before when I ran a dedicated line to my home theater system. So I'm somewhat familiar with the installation. I just need to make sure I get the right components.

Thanks again for all of the input. It is greatly appreciated.

-Jeramy

Romex is available in 6/3 and 8/3. 8/3 should do the job, but spend the extra and get 6/3.

[JeramyK]

Would I want a 50a or 40a breaker ?

[Sberry]

There is always some confusion on breakers here for welding machines and some of the rules are a bit different for them and motors than other wiring. This confusion persists even among electricians. These are dedicated circuits. On a welding machine you are allowed to over breaker the wire to a certain extent to allow for current inrush. If you have a mm210 either breaker will work. I tend to use a 50 just to make it standard with a 50 A recept. The 210 using 035 wire will never pull more than the 40 though. At 15 ft away the number 8 wire will be plenty on that machine or any other 50A input welder. I dont know much about 210's but smaller ones like the 175 and Lincolns little ones have their own thermal protection built into them. Thats how they can ship them with a 50A plug on them. Overcurrent protection of wiring is quite a complex subject and is not as simple as just rating breakers to wire sizes in all instances.