Williams lowbuck tools has a few nice tubing benders for a fair price.
Hope that helps out. I might go to him when the time is right.
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IF YOUR SERIOUS ABOUT HAVING A QUALITY CAGE, INVEST IN A GOOD TUBING BENDER, not PIPE. IF YOU HAVE A CRUSHED OR KINKED TUBE FROM BEING BENT IN A PIPE BENDER YOU WOULNT PASS TECH AT A SANCTIONED EVENT. IF YOUR HARD UP ON CASH, YOU CAN COPE ALL YOUR TUBES WITH THE CHOP SAW AND GRINDER AND HAVE GOOD FITS, BUT ITS A PAIN IN THE ***, SO IF YOU CAN GET A HF NOTCHER. AS FAR AS BENDERS GO, I LOVE THE PROTOOLS BENDER I USE AT WORK, BEND LIKE A DREAM. DROP SOME CASH ON A 1.75" TUBE DIE WITH A 5.5" CL RADIUS AND YOU'LL BE ABLE TO MAKE MOST ANY CAGE YOU WANT, AND TUBE FRAMES, ECT.
FOR CAGE DESIGN, LOOK AT THIS SITE http://www.scca.org/amateur/performa...k/Article5.pdf
IT LAYS OUT ALL THE GUIDELINES TO BUILD A SCCA APPROVED CAGE IN ANY VEHICLE. ITS A GOOD REFRENCE.
GOOD LUCK
MATT
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I have to have my VW Bug NHRA certified or I can't race it ,it's way to fast.
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Originally posted by Mike Sherman
By the way, I have over $20,000 in my bender and notcher.
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Originally posted by aweaver
Are the pipe notchers from Harbor Freight worth anything? I've got decent feedback on their benders.
The Pipe benders leave something to be desired. They tend to kink the tube. Remember, pipe is measured ID, tube is measured OD, so your dies will never be QUITE right. I know from whence I speak here, cause the first couple of cages I did were with an HF bender. I wish I would have saved the money...
I can relate with you on spending the money on tools rather than product though, how do you think I got started?
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The article is the April issue. It is rather short and deals mostly with chrome moly. I have already passed onto you the pertinent information. Also, use gussets in your corners for extra strength. By the way, I have over $20,000 in my bender and notcher.
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what are you putting this rollbar in ?
I have about $600 in my redneck hydro bender setup with one die and a cheapo HF notcher.
- jack
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I would rather spend 700.00 and have the tools,that makes the most sense to me.
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$500 for a cage is a STEAL...
I'm sure Morpheus will chime in here too. Cages are fairly labor intensive.
As also mentioned above a good tubing bender (not pipe), with something to cope/notch with is essential to good fit/finish.
You'll drop $500 on the bender/dies alone from a quality supplier like www.jd2.com or www.pro-tools.com then throw in another $50-200 for a notcher ($200 for a quality jobbie).
Normally the cages I've done are in offroad vehicles like Jeeps, so we don't have the issue Mike alluded to. On tighter welds, I find it nice to switch over to a FCAW setup, lose the hood and tape the tip so it won't ground out when trying to reach around the corner.
If you wanna look at some of the tools/examples of what we've done, check here:
general link with lots of Jeep cages, etc:
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hey Mike, I would like to read that article in the Welding Journal. what month is the article in ? and is there a place I can order back issues ? thanks.
- jack
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I have a dirt track car that I sponsor every year. One of the things I do for him (other than give him money!) is weld up his roll cage. Also, Welding Journal had a nice article last month on Nascar rollcages. All roll cages should be out of mild steel and mig welding them if done properly is just fine. You will need a good bender that will make very tight 90 deg. bends and a method for coping the ends of the tubes for a good tight fit up. A good mig and the ability to lay on the floor boards and squeeze under the roll cage to make that last weld you can't reach any other way and you are in business.
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