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How to weld 2 drain augers together???

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  • How to weld 2 drain augers together???

    My POS hillbilly tennant went and plugged my drain for the second time in a year with all the grease she dumps down there. Since its a trailer and cleanouts aren't used I need to creat a 60' snake from my 50' and a new 15' I just bought. I put all 50' sown like last time and got butkis. I know just cal rotorooter. Well for the last adventure which he was there 10 minutes and gone for a humble $125 it just aint gonna happen. Thats sutpid wages by anyones standards so I have to rig up something. First off no one rents one for less than 3" drains thats over 50' around here so its up to me.
    Here is what I have. 50' 1/2 incher round coiled wire and a 15' 3/8". I know thats enough having watched Mr Rooter use a motorized thing similar last time. Whats the best way to join these two together so they don't come apart in there and make me strangle the HUD Queen just yet. I was thinking of sliding the maller inside the bigger or sliding a piece of steel inside each like a sleeve and welding it together. Whats the best way to weld this stuff? I can't say I have had any sewer article welding experience or spring steel for that matter. Oh how I hate pig tenants; they could ruin a rock !

  • #2
    Not a Good Idea....

    You weld this, the material is a treated spring/tempered steel and stress-relieved, it will not be "spring/tempered and stress-relieved" in the weld area.

    It will break in the pipe and You will "Taste" the savings.

    Professional drain snakes have male & female Connector.

    Some manufactures sell/make splicers for there products.

    I would get the correct tool.

    Only my opinion.

    Regards
    Last edited by Joseph; 01-15-2005, 02:11 AM.
    "Equipment Should Never be an Excuse for Poor Performance. If You are Going to be a Professional, You Get the Correct Equipment, then the Only Excuse is Your Ability to Perform." ™

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    • #3
      I would just buy a longer snake but$$$$

      The price hops up from $25 to $260 which is more than I can handle for my operation. There is no coupler for these small rigs that I am aware of. It is one of those nasty little **** out of luck areas I have to find a way to work around. Surely there is some way to put that together so its strong enough to handle routing through grease..

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      • #4
        I had the same problem years back with a drain. Had the wire ( 50' ) used the high powered drill and did nothing but make a mess and a whole day gone. I ended up doing what i should of done in the first place. I went to the local ( home depot ) hardware store and rented the big power motor 75' dog they had for $35. with all the cutters and goodies on the end and had the problem solved in less than an hour.
        Millermatic 210 "Big Blue"

        VICTOR SUPERRANGE

        OPTREL UVEX SATELLITE

        Miller SPECTRUM 625



        ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
        "remember, spark production is not welding,
        a nice shiny cold bead, piled high, that i can knock off with a banana does not make you a weldor."
        Pumpkinhead

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        • #5
          Because of hardened/spring temper, welding will be about like trying to weld an extension onto a drill bit-probably will not last. You might want to try silver brazing a short sleeve on the two pieces, 45% should be plenty strong. LFB might work, cheaper but it will get the metal hotter. After your done, put it thru a good work out in the vise before sticking it in the drain. Fishing out a broken auger wouldn't be fun. As a fellow slumlord I know where your coming from. good luck.

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          • #6
            Sounds to me like it's time to crawl under that thing and put another cleanout in so you don't need to snake such a long length into it. Rubber clamp fittings make it really easy, aside from the obvious nasty trip under the trailer. Most of those trailers have plumbing so screwed up it doesn't matter how the tennants treat them, you'll have problemls. Do the pipes freeze up too!
            Last edited by Thomas Harris; 01-15-2005, 09:26 AM.

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            • #7
              Thomas has the right answer. There is usually a grease trap at the septic tank inlet., assuming it is a septic tank. The HUD queen will continue to toss grease down the sink so I would put a clean out next to the tank. That grease can get rock hard. Might even need to take the lid off to do it right.

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              • #8
                rent one or call r r

                when you bust off the snake in the pipe. it will be backhoe city !!!!! take our wisdom or suffer big time!!!

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                • #9
                  Thanks for the spring steel info.

                  I will expand my search area some and see if someone has a rental routerlong enough that isn't so large a diameter. Too bad we have a Lowes and not a Depot which we had hoped for. Lowes isn't any better priced than a lumber yard for things. If not then braze and the vise it is. Amazing how some people feel sorry for these slobs. I have deal with them or their kids in one law enforcement job or another and there is only one solution. You have to treat them like bad children threatening them every time they step out of line or they just keep pushing. BTW around here we call them chewes pronounced " chee wee". Truly credits to the human race one and all. Old fat *** is gonna get her rent raised plenty this fall for no better reason than pissing me off.

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                  • #10
                    you are not a true slumlord until you have actually moved someone to the street. Guaranteed to get you out of the mood for owning rental property. I'm convinced (for the most part) there is only one kind of rent and that is low rent. just got a call, I will be fixing a refridgerator tomorrow after I get back from my real job.

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                    • #11
                      Get a flat snake with the ball on the end. You can get one long enough to work made by Ridgid. Go to their web site and search for dealers in your area. The 1/2 inch tape comes in a 75 foot length and the thinner 3/4 incher X 100 will work in 2 inch lines. I have one and it works.

                      http://www.ridgid.com/catalog/RT2004-135.pdf
                      Jim-bee

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                      • #12
                        another idea pile buck

                        that's what plumbers call a blow bag, and they work greatfor in house fixtures.

                        for a 3or 4inch side sewer [clean out access ] you can purchase a canvas blow bag. there much larger, about $50, avaible at plumber supply's and do a great job! they also attach to garden hoses. I have an old terra cotta side sewer that aparently is cracked. once a month it snags t. p. and blocks up. the blow bag has saver me $500.in a year easy. this summer i'll rent a back hoe and replace.
                        one more tip when your side sewer exits house, install a kelly fitting! this fitting sweeps into house and to street. great for slab houses. you can snake into house or to street!

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                        • #13
                          Drizler,
                          LMAO I learned a few new choice idioms from you. Even if you dont find a solution your post was worth the read
                          Last edited by bcraytor; 01-15-2005, 09:07 PM.
                          Nothing is as easy as it ought to be!

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                          • #14
                            Pile Buck, Got a few myself

                            Originally posted by Pile Buck
                            Hi drizzle. I also have a rental here in a Navy town, see all types of people here, and the majority of them could care less, it doesn’t belong to them! One thing I’ve always found very helpful is a tool that is sold at most hardware stores. It looks like a piece of black rubber hose, and at one end it has a female fitting for a garden hose. You stick it in the drain, hold it in place have some one turn on the hose, before any water comes out the end, the black rubber hose blows up to form a water tight seal. Then it automatically goes into a pulse action. It just pumps and pumps and pumps water until, it either blows your pipes apart or unplugs the drain. I have never had any problems with using this tool on my rental, and it 58-years old. Good luck, I think everybody should own a least one rental in his or her life!
                            If that doesnt work,(which 99% of the time it does, Get a small air compressorDone it) make up a 3 or 4" plasic plug and tap it for 1/4 npt, fitting and valve and SLOWLY BLOW THE **** IN THE TANK, HAS WORKED FOR ME!!!!!! Jack

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                            • #15
                              I tried the rubber garden hose blow bag

                              That works great for most instances. Unfortunately I put full pressure on it this time and it wouldn't budge the grease. This is some serious scum believe me. What was in the J trap and 3' of pipe I removed was SOLID GREASE. Most of you guys probably couldn't even imagine what it looks like. What I would like to know is what her arteries look like. I overheard one of her pearls of wisdom to her daughter one day. " Don't move around so much. You remember thats what gave Uncle *** his heart attack". Ya right stay firmly glued to the couch and everythin gonna be just fine.
                              You guys recall the 480 LB woman in Fla last summer that the paramedics had to cut out the wall to get her out. She had sat on the couch so long they had to surgically remove it from her rear. She died and my only question was since she hadn't left the couch in 2 years where did all the POO go? Thats one for the scholars to ponder.
                              I might try air pressure but its hard since I am going in through the clean out and there is a vent directly above it and its hard to seal up. I don't have a big air tank and my compressor is pretty much stationary and 220 Vt.

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