Fan on Demand for a Syncrowave 300

[BugEyedValiant]

Is there any way that I can do this to mine? If so what sensors would I need and where would they go? Also, I have a foot control with a 14 pin plug. Where can I get a plug to convert it to the 5 pin on my Syncrowave?

[Phil]

Re: Fan on Demand for a Syncrowave 300

Originally posted by BugEyedValiant
Is there any way that I can do this to mine? If so what sensors would I need and where would they go? Also, I have a foot control with a 14 pin plug. Where can I get a plug to convert it to the 5 pin on my Syncrowave?

My 2 cents (well 1 and a half since I'm talking Canadian pennies ). If your fan is "on" all the time, you would not be gaining anything with "fan on demand", except saving the cost of the electricity to run the fan

[Hobart Expert Rock]

ADAPTOR CORD 14TO 5 AND 5 TO 14..

CAN'T HELP ON THE FAN JOB BUT THE CORD YOU NEED WOULD BE A 5 PIN FOR THE WELDER AND 14 FOR THE REMOTE AND THE PART NUMBER IS 129341. YOU CAN ORDER THAT AT A DEALER FOR MILLER .
THANK YOU

[BugEyedValiant]

I want the fan off to reduce noise. The thing sounds as loud as an airplane when it is on and I do a lot of low amp work that dosent draw a lot of current. On the plug, if I could find a 5 pin plug, I would just remove the 14 pin plug and resolder on a 5 pin, but I dont know where to find the plug. Thanks guys.

[Mark Whiddon]

Don't know much about this machine so this may be a mute point, but how about changing the fan for a different one. You can get cooling fans (basically computer type flat fans ) at Radio Shack. They are pretty quiet and you could get probably any one of them to fit inside the machine. The one I bought recently was a 4" I believe for about $20. they have them bigger and smaller.

[Phil]

Your unit uses a 230VAC fan (and a big one: 1/4 hp motor!), I checked the user manual). If you want fan on demand, you need to build a temperature sensing circuit that controls a relay (to turn your fan on). The temperature sensor needs to be positionned in the proper place (most likely on the big heat sinks), and the whole think needs to be adjusted at the right setting to avoid damage to the unit.

You other option, is to get a "cooling" thermostat that you will use to start the fan. It should be positionned above the heat sink since heat rises. This would require a 230V to 24V small transformer (I don't know of any that work off line voltage) and a 24VAC relay (these thermostats cannot handle a 1/4hp load). You can get electronic ones under 50$ (Canadian !).

[BugEyedValiant]

The only heat sinks that I am aware of is on the four SCRs. Would that where it needs to be placed or would it be on one of the transformers? I dont want to take a chance on screwing it up so I dont want to "experement" on the old thing.......too expensive to buy parts for it. Thanks

[Al T.]

Instead of disconnecting the noisey fan and putting in a small one. Cover the air intake side with a 3m fabric furnance air filter. That would reduce noise at the same time filter the air. Take it off when you do heavey welding to increase air flow.

Just a thought....

[Phil]

Originally posted by BugEyedValiant
The only heat sinks that I am aware of is on the four SCRs. Would that where it needs to be placed or would it be on one of the transformers? I dont want to take a chance on screwing it up so I dont want to "experement" on the old thing.......too expensive to buy parts for it. Thanks

Understood. I would place it above the biggest heat source to be on the safe side (you'll have to verify that). Another option, maybe less risky, is to reduce the fan speed when welding at low amps. Could that work out for you ??

[Phil]

If you elect to go the reduced speed way, check this link.

Dimmer/speed control kit

Cheap & cheerful

[Phil]

Originally posted by Phil
If you elect to go the reduced speed way, check this link.

Dimmer/speed control kit

Cheap & cheerful

This is the schematic

[Phil]

Originally posted by Phil


This is the schematic

Some more info from someone who bought this (if your fan motor draws less than 3.5A, this should work for you):

Original source:

Velleman kit (K5001).

Description:

A reliable and efficient all-around performer. I bought the kit because it didn't cost me much more than the components were worth and I also got a nice professional-made PCB inside.

As you can see, this is a tried-and-true diac & triac combination that offers both simplicity and high performance. With a load up to 3.5A, the power rating is 750W at 230V. A heat sink on the triac is a must!

Note: for 110V operation, add a 220k resistor in parallel with the 470k pot. No other modification is necessary. But since the maximum allowed current is still 3.5A, the highest possible power output will drop to 380W.

[Mowjunk]

Bug, I saw this at weldingsupply.com and thought it may be of some value. I don't know anything about it, though. Maybe one of the Miller guys could help.

187057 KIT,FAN ON DEMAND SYNCROWAVE 250 $29.70 1/EA

[BugEyedValiant]

Can one of the company guys tell me what this is or should I post a new message? Thanks mowjunk.

[Arbo]

Assuming the fan motor is in fact 1/4 HP, and one HP equalling 732 watts, that would make the motor 183 watts. Assuming the motor is in fact 220V that would mean an amperage draw of .83. Even if the motor were stepped down to 110V, that would be a draw of 1.66 amps. Just some food for thought.