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Can anything be done about this?

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  • Can anything be done about this?

    I bought a new MillerMatic 175 about 2 months ago. I have used it twice. It replaced a Century 160 MIG tap welder that got stolen.

    I don't like the Millermatic 175. I don't like the starts and I can't seem to "dial it in" for the material being welded. My friend (who welds more than I) says it's a little more "touchy" to work with. He said I should have got a 210. (he recommended Miller)

    Is it possible to take it back and get a credit for a 251? If not, what is a fair price for it?

    Thank You
    [email protected]

  • #2
    All depends on your dealer. Two months is too long to expect full credit, but he might make you a good deal on it in trade.


    • #3
      have you read this thread ? your problems sounds alot like Dan's

      - jack


      • #4
        I to purchased a MM175 about two weeks ago. It a little touchy but I am getting used to it. Be sure to check the thread that Morpheus indicated as there is help there. I/We will be interested in what you think and if it works for you or if you just can't deal with it and get something else. Good luck and welcome to the board...
        Regards, George

        Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
        Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
        Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

        Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
        Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter


        • #5
          I would think that it should be simple to fix, perhaps just an adjustment to the wire feeder. We basically have a constant voltage power supply and a mechanism for feeding the wire. Check out the contact tip for any problems.

          I have gotten 3 different brands of wire feeders to work on a 24 volt battery charger.
          What do I know I am just an electronics technician.


          • #6
            call 1-800


            dont get too frustrated.....
            you may still be able to iron your difficulty out....

            have you tried calling the 1-800 number included in the information phamplets that came with your unit.

            the folks on the end of that number can listen to your problem carefully and help you sort it out.

            i called the 1-800 number for my new HH175 a few times here recently when i thought i needed help and the guys who answered the line i found were very knowledgable and understood my difficulty.




            • #7
              Thank you all for the inputs,

              Let me say that I am a hobby automotive and home projects welder. I need an easy to use unit that is reliable and uncomplicated.

              When looking for my replacement welder, I looked at comparable numbers. I had a 160, so I thought a 175 would be a little more. It turns out that the 160 was more than the 175. (I couldnt find my 160 manual untill I bought the new welder - go figure)

              The 160 welder was rated at 160 amps 60% duty cycle. The 175 welder is rated at 130 amps 30% duty cycle. As far as I can see, the Miller I should have bought was the 210 unit. This problem stems on the number(s) used to identify the unit. I guess there is no standard.

              I was able to flush the argon/02 from the hose with my old welder by presssing the trigger button half way. On the new welder it's all or nothing. The wire feed kicks-in when I try to purge the gas. The start is better if I first pull the trigger then cut about 6in of wire and then weld.

              The last problem is hard to convey, but I will try.
              On the new welder, it is like the wire feed speed is changing as I weld. I, in-turn try to compensate by pulling the gun back and forth. (unstable bead results) These are very small speed changes. I have looked at the pinch roller and slide tube in the hose, and no resistance is felt. I have no clue about this problem. It didnt seem to be an issue for my friend that used it.




              • #8
                Glen, I don't know if you went to the thread that Jack mentioned or not. Dan had a problem with the spring on the brake of the MM175 that was placing too much friction on the spool. We cut 1/4" off of the spring. For starters you can turn the nut around and tighten it just enough so that it will not come off with your fingers. You might also want to tighten the drive roller tension knob to about 4 or so. The manual says to start at 3.

                To purge, just turn both the voltage and wire speed all the way counterclock-wise. Then you can hit the trigger and the valve will open, but no wire will feed.

                Don't dispair! The Miller people are very good at helping you get things right.


                • #9

                  Most welding supply stores take trade ins however, you will probably get more for the MM 175 by selling it.

                  Anway, The MM 251 is a very good machine. However, the variable voltage control on it still makes it more complicated to operate then the tapped transformer design of the MM 210.

                  Ive ran the MM 251, own a MM 210 and MM 175. Having ran all three I can tell you that the MM 251 and MM 210 are definately much better machines then the MM 175.

                  I think the best thing for you to do right now is go to a local welding supply store and test drive a MM 210 and MM 251, and see what you think. If you like one or both better then the MM 175 you might go ahead and see what the store will give you for the MM 175.

                  I really think you will be much happier with the MM 210 or MM 251. The arc on both machines is very good. Plus these big boys weigh 200+ pounds so there is probably going to be less chance of some idiot trying to steal one of these machines.
                  MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
                  Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.

                  PM 180C

                  HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit


                  • #10
                    Hi all,

                    I did look at the thread mentioned, I don't have _that_ specific problem. I acually looked at the thread a week ago trying to resolve the issue, and again last night... Thanks though! : )

                    My old welder weighed a lot more than the 175 about 250lbs more i'd say, that may mean something in itself. The *******s will steal anything not bolted down. They left my auto-dimming shield though. I try to look on the bright side. No pun intended : )

                    I posted a MillerMatic 250 above, I meant a 210, sorry.

                    Perhaps one of you could compare my old welder and tell me what the equivelent Miller would be. Altough information still exsists on the old welder, It's unavailable now... Old welder link;

                    Thanks again


                    • #11
                      Those older Century welders wer good. I had a 180 amp Seelye which was made by engineers who left Century to form their own compsny. I traded a 160 amp Seelye to get it. The 160 had a gas purge switch so I called Seelye and they told me how to wire one in on the 180. Its doable on Millers too, but I would ask their tech people how to do it.


                      • #12
                        Small wire feed changes your seeing is probably from you changing contact tip to work distance (stickout) as your welding. It's the votage tracking wire speed. It will also noticeable if your welding over rusty or dirty metal. Clean metal is always good idea.