while enjoying a constitutional and perusing the sale papers, i came across something in the Ace Hardware circular "Just For Copper heatless copper pipe bonder", anyone familiar with this stuff?, does it work?, do you trust it? (i can't say i would), seems hokey to me, gluing your pipes, mebbee i'm wrong.
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copper pipe glue??
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Originally posted by TEK View PostHey, ya know, its a new age and they glue F-16's together for years now. Try it and get back to us, wouldja?
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Originally posted by Pumpkinhead View Postwhat happens down the road when it degrades and all the joints inna floors and walls spring leaks?Blacksmith
Stickmate LX AC/DC
Big cheap (Chinese) Anvil
Hand cranked coal forge
Freon bottle propane forge
HH 210 and bottle of C25
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Several years ago, I was trying to solder a cap onto the end of a copper pipe that came up vertically in a wall through the slab. There was no way to get enough water out of the pipe so that I could heat it and not have the water boil over and out, even after a few days of trying various drying ideas.
I tried a copper glue from Home Depot out of desperation. It's never leaked. I've also never tried it since.
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Find out if its Code approved in your area. This is important if it leaks later and you try a claim through your insurance. Not code your ins co will do battle to not pay you. if your luck is like mine it will leak from the 3rd floor while your away for 2 weeks and fill the basement. Not that this actually happened to me but that is how my luck runs. Uncrichie.
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Originally posted by MAC702 View PostSeveral years ago, I was trying to solder a cap onto the end of a copper pipe that came up vertically in a wall through the slab. There was no way to get enough water out of the pipe so that I could heat it and not have the water boil over and out, even after a few days of trying various drying ideas.
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Originally posted by MAC702 View PostSeveral years ago, I was trying to solder a cap onto the end of a copper pipe that came up vertically in a wall through the slab. There was no way to get enough water out of the pipe so that I could heat it and not have the water boil over and out, even after a few days of trying various drying ideas.
I tried a copper glue from Home Depot out of desperation. It's never leaked. I've also never tried it since.
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Originally posted by MAC702 View PostWell, I'll certainly ask for one, even though right now I can't picture that.
Maybe I'm just too stuck on electrical conduit compression fittings. Is it similar?
The combination of this pressure around the pipe and the tapered seats makes a perfect seal between pipe, ring and tapered seats. No tape or dope needed (but always put a tiny bit of dope on to lube the threads).
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Oh, yeah! Okay, I'm totally picturing them now; in fact I've used them before. I just couldn't get the split-ring configuration of the electrical type out of my head long enough to remember them!
Heck, I was shopping for those parts not too long ago as I was building a Franzinator for my friend. I wound up flaring the tubing and using flare fittings instead, though.
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Water in Pipe & Soldering
Using bread is a good trick. However, you must make sure that it is the center portion of white bread. No crust, no wheat bread. You roll the bread into a "doughy" ball and stuff it into the pipe. Then quickly solder the fitting. Another technique is to use a length of tubing poked as far as possible into the pipe and suck the water out. Again, quickly solder the fitting.
JFThermal Arc 185 AC/DC ArcMaster
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Makita 14" Chop Saw
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Originally posted by MAC702 View PostSeveral years ago, I was trying to solder a cap onto the end of a copper pipe that came up vertically in a wall through the slab. There was no way to get enough water out of the pipe so that I could heat it and not have the water boil over and out, even after a few days of trying various drying ideas.
I tried a copper glue from Home Depot out of desperation. It's never leaked. I've also never tried it since.
After cutting the water off at the main supply into the house/building, open 2 or 3 faucets wide open. Stick an air nozzle (wrapped with a rag) in the line and pull the trigger. The air/water has to have somewhere to go, so it follows the path of least resistance and drains out of the opened faucets.
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