need 14 pin connector

[manofsteel]

I just need the 14 pin connector (male end) to convert an old wire feeder to the new style amphenal connector onto the Miller engine drives. Does anyone sell just the pigtail connector?

Thank you
Walt

[ventureline]

It's a 20-27 14 pin male amphenol, a electronics store should have it or be able to get it for you. It costs me $28 Canadian to by a male amphenol with strain relief

[Aeroweld]

Walt,
Complete connector should take the following parts:

1ea 97-3106A-20 Straight Plug
1ea 9720-27P Insert
1ea 97-3057-1012-1 Cable Clamp

A nice finishing touch is the 9779-513-"X" Bushing.
The "X" suffix varies as to cable size. Let me know the O.D. of your cable and I can give you the proper suffix.

Paid about $19.00 ea. U.S. for mine in '94

[Aeroweld]

Ooops, just to clarify, Amphenol calls their strain relief a "bushing".

[bjdenommee]

I got one thru my gas supplier for my Lincoln, it came with all sorts of pins, but he put the boots to me on the price.

It was made by C - K products

I think I paid around $70.00

Good Luck

Bernie

[manofsteel]

Originally posted by Aeroweld
Ooops, just to clarify, Amphenol calls their strain relief a "bushing".

Aeroweld,
what company are those part numbers good for. Thanks for the help

[ventureline]

email me and I'll send you what you require $27US W/shipping
Also send me what machine you have and I'll give you the pinouts
Weld Alert
[email protected]

[Aeroweld]

Walt,
Those are right out of the Amphenol catalog. When I bought my Trailblazer 250 I made all my own remote control cables instead of buying Miller's. Saved roughly 50% of the cost. It is time consuming to solder all the connecter pins but I had to do something while watching TV.

Also I needed an additional 100' of remote cable to control my Spool Gun for a particular job. I built a dedicated Spool Gun remote cable for about $30.00. Miller's would have cost me in the area of $300.00 If interested, I also have the PN's for the female connectors and the 90 deg connectors.

As Ventureline alluded to you can get the connectors at any good electronics store or some of the bigger industrial electrical supply houses. Just look in the phone book and call around and see who carries the Amphenol line of connectors

[ventureline]

Aeroweld, you should but some shrink wrap on your amphenols to protect them from the elements, and to stop the screws from getting mangled

[ventureline]

If you don't have an electronics store nearby, "digiKey" is online and carries EVERYTHING you'll need at really fantastic prices and next day shipping. I was buying 500 of the 6 & 14 pin amphenols from them at once. Really decent prices. Now I've talked my local supplier into buying the stock for me so I don't have to hold so much stock for only a few points higher.

[Aeroweld]

>>>>you should but some shrink wrap on your amphenols to protect them from the elements, and to stop the screws from getting mangled


The pic is of the Male and female ends of one of the remotes. They are normally stored connected.

I'm pretty careful about dragging them around so they don't get all chewed up. Also afraid of burring up the external threads on the receptical side of the connectors so I'm careful with them.

The connectors themselves are water proof or at least water resistant. I only recently disconnected the one that goes from my welder to the truck body after 10 years of Michigan weather and the pins are just like new.

[ventureline]

When I biuld a remote or extension I put an 1.5 diameter section of 2.5/1 shrink wrap in the amphenol body. This keeps the body in a like new condition, stops the amphenol from loosening and makes disassemby easy even after years of being dragged around. On the pins I put a electronics dielectric clear silicone grease to stop corrosion. Since the amphenols don't really like to be unscrewed and screwed back on alot. I've been leaving the amphenol screwed on to the recptacle and I've been using a round 6 pin trailer connector. Pop on Pop off. Works great in trials so far.

Most of the remotes I make have twin power receptacles and heat control. The trailer type plug makes it easier for the end user to wind up or hang up the remote or extension without having to unscrew the amphenol from the welder.

As well as, my remotes have small magnets on the back so they are never in the muck or lying on the ground

[Aeroweld]

Ventureline,

>>>>Most of the remotes I make have twin power receptacles and heat control.

I presume that with the 6 pin trailer connector you are only using your remotes for contactor and amperage control; ie. only for TIG or remote amperage control for SMAW?

My High Freq TIG unit uses 5 wires; 2 for contactor and 3 for remote amperage. The Spoolgun uses 3 different wires, The other Miller wire feeders share a pin or 2 from the spoolgun and use 1 or 2 others of the 9 pins used for their operation. I've got about 150' of remote in 3 different lengths that will operate any of Miller's equipment and another 100' dedicated to the Spool Gun.

I've thought about using some of the clear silicone grease but corrosion hasn't been a concern. I have had a connector or two loosen up and may just try the shrinkwrap idea next time I have to build one or tighten one of mine. Thanks for the idea.

Interesting about using magnets on the connectors. Do you tie-wrap them in place or somehow "mold" them on using the shrink wrap?

[ventureline]

If your running a 30A spoolgun, and a WC-24 Controller it only uses A (24Vac) B (contactor) and G (24 Vac common) so thats only 3 wires out of the 14. There is no ground on a 24Vac circuit. If your using a WC-115, then thats only 3 wires as well (I,J,&G) and even with remote control that would be only 6 wires in total.

Your HF controller should use the 6 wires total 2 for power one for contactor and 3 for remote control, perhaps they are using the same circuit common for the power and remote to make up the 5.

My 6 wire remotes simple are for control and auxillary 115Vac power only. I often make up custom 8 wire remotes for 24Vac and 115Vac accessories. These are simply 8 wire 100' extentions that either plug into an accessory, or a hand held remote. I haven't found a quick disconnect for these yet.

The magnets I use are round rare earth 1"x1/8". They are super glued into metal cups and bolted into cast Aluminum remote housing I use.

The only place to find the magnets and cups are the wordworking places like "LeeValley"

[Aeroweld]

Amphenol does make a straight connector that is a "Quick Disconnect" It would be a 97-4107A. I was going to use those instead of the 97-4106A but they were special order through my suppliers so I just went with the standard. Obviously not as quick of a disconnect as a 6-way but might an option for you.

Did you look into an 8-way trailer connector or is 7 the max?

The HF definately only needs 5 for contactor and remote amp operation. There is a seperate 110v cord to power the unit.

When you say you are using 115v auxillary power, is that for certain wire feeders or are you running things like drills, lights, grinders etc. through that circuit???

I just went ahead with a 10 conductor cord in my case. Since I needed 8 for the HF and WC-24, I figured I might as well hook up the 9th one and have one for a spare. That way I would be set for any Miller equipment I might run into or end up buying.

BTW are you a dealer or are you making up the cords for your own or your employer's use? Sounds like you've made a bunch.