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Chop saw cut off wheels

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  • Chop saw cut off wheels

    I have a rigid chopsaw thats works pretty well for what I normally do. I had to cut some 45 angles and noticed the blade flexing a lot no matter how little pressure I used. I'm thinking the culpret is the wheels i'm using which are some low grade wheels but, They do work well for straight cuts. Are there any wheels out there that dont flex at all or just flex a bit so I can get an acurate cut. Or is this my excuse to the misses to get the mighty band saw?
    MM 135
    MM 210
    Maxstar 150
    Smith O/A

  • #2
    Band Saw !!


    • #3
      chop saw blade flexing = BAD DAY.
      George W. Bush saving your butt whether you like it or not!
      If there must be trouble let it be in my day, that my child may have peace.
      Thomas Paine
      Fear is temporary, regret is forever
      HH210 w S.G.
      Victor/Uniweld O/P
      Dewalt Chop Saw


      • #4

        Two things.

        I used a chop saw exclusively for quite a while until some guys here talked me in to a band saw, and I am GLAD they did. I picked one up over the weekend and already I am super happy that I did. I will still use a chop saw when I need to, but for day in and day out cutting and for some of my projects (like the Weld/Cut table I am doing at present) the band saw is limply better for cutting. Lots of low cost options out there like HF and similar for saws under $200

        The chop saw blade/wheel is where the business meets the client
        I have what some on this board would consider a very poor saw, as it is a Clarke. The MAIN REASON I got the Clarke was that for $99 it had a decent MOTOR and frame. Not GREAT but decent.
        After purchase, I immediately swited the Clarke blade out for a DeWalt blade. HUGE difference.
        My rationale was to save the money on the aparatus, and spend the money on the blades over time.

        Sure, I may some day buy a DeWalt, but for now, the Clarke with a DeWalt blade works great. IMHO don't skimp on the blade.

        Hobart StickMate LX 235 AC/DC
        Hobart Handler 125 EZ
        Hobart Handler 187
        Champion 4500
        Mag-Power MP 55 Plasma
        Lincoln Precision TIG 185
        Smith O/A

        Clarke 95e


        • #5
          I had the same problem as you. I also have a ridgid saw. The very knowledgeable people on this board convinced me the band saw is the way to go. I bought it a few months back and don't know why I waited so long. I have also been convinced to buy a few more different tools through reading this board so beware. It is expensive to be here LOL


          • #6
            I suspect that the work clamp needs to be adjusted:

            When you adjust the clamp for the Mitre Cut you move the Contact area where the blade comes down. In the Pic you can see where I had to move the clamp- as there is an obvious area without dust

            A band saw is a wonderful thing but $$- You can fix this problem for free

            or for just a few bucks a new Wheel.
            Ed Conley
            Screaming Broccoli, Inc
            Miller Passport Plus, Spoolmate 100
            SO 2020 Bender
            Miller 125c Plasma
            "Hold my beer while I try this!"


            • #7
              I don't know about the wheel you are using, but there are different widths, too. The thin kerf is great for straight cuts, but they flex more when cutting angles. I know that Lowes has a couple of different Dewalt cutoff wheels. See if there is one that is wider. Also like Broc said make sure that the material is positioned right, and (if you are cutting thin stuff) you may have to maybe make a new fence that will support the material better close to the cut.

              Still building my new old truck - see the progress!

              Square Wave TIG 200 - Woot!


              • #8
                When doing an angle cut with a chop saw, the blade tends to deflect when first starting the cut, the initial cut is off, the rest of the cut continues on the same line.

                **** Standard Liability Disclaimer ****
                The following probably breaks every safety rule in the book, the author takes no responsibility for any injuries or property damage resulting from this proceedure, follow at your own risk!!!!

                When starting an angle cut, I usually take a straight-cut piece of metal (usually about a 1/2"x 2" or so flatbar), hold it square against the blade right above and behind where it contacts the piece being cut for a few seconds, this keeps the blade from deflecting and distorting, then once the cut has started (at this point the kerf will hold the blade), I drop the extra piece of steel and grab the piece being cut on the left-hand side of the clamp, the cutting action tends to pull the piece thru the clamp, creating a curved cut, if you can hold it you get a truer angle cut.
                *** Disclaimer ***

                As I have no wish to toy with anybody's life, I suggest you take this and all other posts with a certain amount of skepticism. Carefully evaluate, and if necessary, research on your own any suggestions or advice you might pick up here, especially those from my posts, as I obviously haven't the skill and experience exhibited by some of the more illustrious and more successful members of this forum. I'm not responsible for anything I say, as I drank toxic water when young.


                • #9
                  I usually buy DeWalts from Tractor Supply. The price is right and they work as good as any. I dont like cutting mitres with chop saw and just dont. I corner with a plasma usually, do occassionally cope with a chop saw.


                  • #10
                    Heres a tip that I think came from this forum. When cutting angles on a chop saw use a blade that has been worn down to a smaller diameter. Its alot stiffer and doesn't have the flex tendency as a new full diameter one. I have tried this and it really helps alot! Uncrichie...


                    • #11
                      I have found when cutting at an angle with a chop saw (especially on round tubing) that it helps to use the reinforced blades. I tried some of the cheaper blades that just have the appearance of being a large, thin grinding stone. The ones with the reinforcement have a pattern of small squares or diamonds on the sides, and they don't flex nearly as bad. They also last a lot longer, so they really cost little, if any, more.

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