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Hobart Ultraweld 130- What is it?

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  • Hobart Ultraweld 130- What is it?

    I have an opportunity to purchase a Hobart Ultraweld 130- cheap, used and in fair to good condition. Is it worth purchasing? Any idea of age or value? Seller doesn't know much. It supposedly uses 115V or 230V. I have 230 Volt in my garage, that I use for my MIG.

  • #2
    Welcome Conteco. Are you sure that is the correct name? I have never heard that one before.
    What do I know I am just an electronics technician.

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    • #3
      Hobart Ultra Weld 130

      Yes, that's the name printed on the Hobart welder- Ultra Weld 130. It appears to be a stick welder with no gas connections on the back. The serial no. is 641214, if that helps.

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      • #4
        Conteco,

        The UW130 was a unit that Hobart Bros Co. sold in the late 80's. It is a 130A output/230Vac input and 75A/115Vac. It is has DC output only but can do stick and Lift TIG. It is built with inverter technology.

        Hope that helps.
        Keith

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        • #5
          Ultra Weld 130- What is it?

          Thanks, that helps a lot. But what is Lift TIG? I've heard of, but not used TIG, and never heard if Lift TIG.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Conteco
            But what is Lift TIG? I've heard of, but not used TIG, and never heard if Lift TIG.
            Sort of like scratch start, without the scratching. Touch the tungsten to the work piece and the machine senses that. When you lift, it starts the arc. No high frequency.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Hobart Expert Keith
              Conteco,

              The UW130 was a unit that Hobart Bros Co. sold in the late 80's. It is a 130A output/230Vac input and 75A/115Vac. It is has DC output only but can do stick and Lift TIG. It is built with inverter technology.

              Hope that helps.
              Keith
              Almost sounds like an STi with less power
              Regards, George

              Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
              Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
              Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

              Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
              Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

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              • #8
                Ultra Weld 130- What is it?

                Thanks! With DC output, using lift TIG, I couldn't do .100" aluminum, though, could I? Also I didn't dee a gas feed on the unit. Maybee I didn't see, the gas port. Wouldn I also have to purshase a tungsten power tip? Sorry for so many questions, but the seller doesn't know.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Conteco
                  Thanks! With DC output, using lift TIG, I couldn't do .100" aluminum, though, could I? Also I didn't dee a gas feed on the unit. Maybee I didn't see, the gas port. Wouldn I also have to purshase a tungsten power tip? Sorry for so many questions, but the seller doesn't know.
                  It may not have a built in gas port, maybe you just hook the gas to a torch that has a gas valve built into the torch handle, maybe Keith can answer that question. Yes, you would need to use a tungsten electrode (just a few bucks each, assuming it comes with a torch with collets and cups), probably 1.5% Lanthinated would work well in that machine. Aluminum, not impossible with DC but certinly not worth the expence and effort IMO. If you want to tig aluminum get a AC/DC unit.
                  Regards, George

                  Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
                  Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
                  Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

                  Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
                  Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The UW130 does not have a built in gas valve so the use of a torch with a valve would be needed.

                    Keith

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                    • #11
                      Sorry to drag up an old thread. I picked one of these up today. Original plug cut off and a regular 110v plug put in. Take it home, plug it in, fan turns on, but won't weld. Wondering if anyone can offer some insight. Thanks

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                      • #12
                        Knowing from where you "picked it up" and what you were told about it gives us a significant head start. You need to be qualified to stick electrical meter probes inside the machine while it's powered up. Otherwise, it may be worth bringing it to a qualified person.

                        Is there a switch inside to select the input voltage?
                        Last edited by MAC702; 08-27-2021, 09:36 AM.

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                        • #13
                          I picked it up for free from a stranger who said he had seen it weld a long time ago, and it's been sitting for years. (The rod holder alone is worth more than what it cost me to go pick it up so I'm not out much either way)

                          There is a switch inside, labeled "115" on one side and "320" on the other. It is set to 115.

                          I have no issue probing around but without a wiring diagram (and no understanding of how an inverter welder actually works) I won't know what I'm looking for.

                          I did find a small fuse on one board which I removed, tested, and reinstalled.

                          It would be awesome to find an owners manual for it.

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                          • #14
                            This is what the fave of the machine looks like. Now most of my stick welding experience is on a Miller thunderbolt XL AC/DC. I'm not super familiar with having adjustable arc force and hot start. (Which is what intrigued me with this machine, just something to play around with at home). Would you happen to know what the two indicator lights mean? (Neither come on)

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                            • #15
                              Update, I made new cables and picked up some fresh rod just to rule out possibilities. Still no weld. Hooked up my voltmeter to the leads, and I get 17V. That seems quite low. I would like to find out what I need to do to run it on 220, and what to maybe check inside, common culprits in this type of equipment, etc.

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