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Hobart Ultraweld 130- What is it?

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  • cpotter1
    replied
    Well, Hobart got back to me with an owners manual with a parts breakdown and an electrical schematic. The power indicator does not turn green when powered up. The switch labeled 320 is supposed to be 230, have to switch it and swap a couple of jumpers. So I'll have a go with it on 230v this weekend and see what happens.

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  • cpotter1
    replied
    I know, right? I'm wondering if it was a typo when it was manufactured. Either way I don't have much to lose by wiring it to a 240v plug and plugging it in. When it quits raining I'll run a cord outside and give it a go.

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  • MAC702
    replied
    Okay, that's weird.

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  • cpotter1
    replied
    Originally posted by MAC702 View Post
    Presumably, you typo'd that and meant the other side of the switch is labeled 230?
    It is labeled 320 and 115. Weird I know.

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  • MAC702
    replied
    Originally posted by cpotter1 View Post
    ...There is a switch inside, labeled "115" on one side and "320" on the other. It is set to 115....
    Presumably, you typo'd that and meant the other side of the switch is labeled 230?

    With most machines like this, you change the switch setting and then plug it in to the correct voltage, preferably by changing the plug, or using an adapter cord.

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  • cpotter1
    replied
    Update, I made new cables and picked up some fresh rod just to rule out possibilities. Still no weld. Hooked up my voltmeter to the leads, and I get 17V. That seems quite low. I would like to find out what I need to do to run it on 220, and what to maybe check inside, common culprits in this type of equipment, etc.

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  • cpotter1
    replied
    This is what the fave of the machine looks like. Now most of my stick welding experience is on a Miller thunderbolt XL AC/DC. I'm not super familiar with having adjustable arc force and hot start. (Which is what intrigued me with this machine, just something to play around with at home). Would you happen to know what the two indicator lights mean? (Neither come on)

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  • cpotter1
    replied
    I picked it up for free from a stranger who said he had seen it weld a long time ago, and it's been sitting for years. (The rod holder alone is worth more than what it cost me to go pick it up so I'm not out much either way)

    There is a switch inside, labeled "115" on one side and "320" on the other. It is set to 115.

    I have no issue probing around but without a wiring diagram (and no understanding of how an inverter welder actually works) I won't know what I'm looking for.

    I did find a small fuse on one board which I removed, tested, and reinstalled.

    It would be awesome to find an owners manual for it.

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  • MAC702
    replied
    Knowing from where you "picked it up" and what you were told about it gives us a significant head start. You need to be qualified to stick electrical meter probes inside the machine while it's powered up. Otherwise, it may be worth bringing it to a qualified person.

    Is there a switch inside to select the input voltage?
    Last edited by MAC702; 08-27-2021, 09:36 AM.

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  • cpotter1
    replied
    Sorry to drag up an old thread. I picked one of these up today. Original plug cut off and a regular 110v plug put in. Take it home, plug it in, fan turns on, but won't weld. Wondering if anyone can offer some insight. Thanks

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  • Hobart Expert Keith
    replied
    The UW130 does not have a built in gas valve so the use of a torch with a valve would be needed.

    Keith

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  • Sundown
    replied
    Originally posted by Conteco
    Thanks! With DC output, using lift TIG, I couldn't do .100" aluminum, though, could I? Also I didn't dee a gas feed on the unit. Maybee I didn't see, the gas port. Wouldn I also have to purshase a tungsten power tip? Sorry for so many questions, but the seller doesn't know.
    It may not have a built in gas port, maybe you just hook the gas to a torch that has a gas valve built into the torch handle, maybe Keith can answer that question. Yes, you would need to use a tungsten electrode (just a few bucks each, assuming it comes with a torch with collets and cups), probably 1.5% Lanthinated would work well in that machine. Aluminum, not impossible with DC but certinly not worth the expence and effort IMO. If you want to tig aluminum get a AC/DC unit.

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  • Conteco
    replied
    Ultra Weld 130- What is it?

    Thanks! With DC output, using lift TIG, I couldn't do .100" aluminum, though, could I? Also I didn't dee a gas feed on the unit. Maybee I didn't see, the gas port. Wouldn I also have to purshase a tungsten power tip? Sorry for so many questions, but the seller doesn't know.

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  • Sundown
    replied
    Originally posted by Hobart Expert Keith
    Conteco,

    The UW130 was a unit that Hobart Bros Co. sold in the late 80's. It is a 130A output/230Vac input and 75A/115Vac. It is has DC output only but can do stick and Lift TIG. It is built with inverter technology.

    Hope that helps.
    Keith
    Almost sounds like an STi with less power

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  • MAC702
    replied
    Originally posted by Conteco
    But what is Lift TIG? I've heard of, but not used TIG, and never heard if Lift TIG.
    Sort of like scratch start, without the scratching. Touch the tungsten to the work piece and the machine senses that. When you lift, it starts the arc. No high frequency.

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