Dynasty 200-300- or ?

[metal tech]

I'm planning on buying a TIG machine in the near future and would like your thoughts. I've only used Miller Synchrowave 250's & 350's for the tig work I do. Since this is for a home garage, an inverter based machine makes the most sense. A little background on myself: 16 yrs USAF Aircraft & Missle cert welder. 70% of what I tig weld is .062 thick, and is usually either Hastalloy, Cobalt, Inconel, or Alum. Now with the increase ability to define the arc's characteristics, what is the practical limit that a 200 & 300 can weld in a single pass w/o preheating? With Alum I use the acetylene sooting method of preheating. How thick can you go with a good preheat? Thanks for any suggestions you may have.

Al

[chub380]

I would think that 1/4 inch would be the limit for the 200 for one pass. I have a 300 tigrunner I love it. You wont be sorry if you get a Dynasty. As far as the 300 I dont know but I would believe it could most likely do 3/8 alum. It is amazing what you can do with the Dynastys arc. It is true what they say, it is almost as easy to weld alum as steel.Keep us posted what you get. Chub

[rangerod]

Dynasty 200-300

Metal Tech

Have you looked at the Thermal-Arc machines? I am in the same boat you are in and I am also looking at buying two machines right now. I want to get a MIG welder & a TIG machine. The TIG machine is proving a little more difficult. I have mostly used the Miller Syncrowave 350 & Aircrafter 331. I like the idea of the inverter type machine but am concerned on the cost of repair if a board was to burn out. Other than repair cost what I have read on the inverter type machine is impressive. If I go with an inverter machine I will go with a 300 amp unit so there is no chance I will have to upgrade to a bigger unit later. For the MIG I have the Lincoln Power MIG 300 in mind so far but am also looking at the Miller MM251, big decision so I'm taking my time, researching info on both these machines and asking alot of questions here on this site.

Well welcome to the site there alot of good people with very good advice here. By the way how has your time at the Kun been?

[metal tech]

The Kun

This is my 2nd time here, first was 95-96. It's just about the last place left to have a good time and not get into trouble. Had our ORI last week, glad that's over. I've got 87 days left, then back to the real world. I got a MM210 2 years ago, and love the way it works. I'd like to stick with Blue for my tig machine, but I'll checkout the Thermal Arc.

Al

[rangerod]

The Kun

Metal Tech

2nd time Sorry to hear that, I have to say I've never been Hope you did well on your ORI. I first started off intending to get a MM210 but quickly learned it would not be enough for me. For now my equipment is for home use but is shortly to be used for business in about 9 months from my 20 So I need heavier duty equipment. So for now its research,research,research & more research Equipment I have now is Red but I'm not locked into it, looking at everything Let me know which way you go, Good Luck.

[metal tech]

I've got 3yrs and a few months left. If I was equiping a shop, I'd skip the 210 also. It just makes more sense to get a little bigger machine the first time than to realize what you bought won't get the job done. I was at Edwards 92-94.

Al

[Guest]

Re: Dynasty 200-300- or ?

Originally posted by metal tech
I'm planning on buying a TIG machine in the near future and would like your thoughts. I've only used Miller Synchrowave 250's & 350's for the tig work I do. Since this is for a home garage, an inverter based machine makes the most sense. A little background on myself: 16 yrs USAF Aircraft & Missle cert welder. 70% of what I tig weld is .062 thick, and is usually either Hastalloy, Cobalt, Inconel, or Alum. Now with the increase ability to define the arc's characteristics, what is the practical limit that a 200 & 300 can weld in a single pass w/o preheating? With Alum I use the acetylene sooting method of preheating. How thick can you go with a good preheat? Thanks for any suggestions you may have.

Al

I, too, am an aircraft weldor...My Miller Syncrowave 300 can weld 1" without a preheat, using a 1/8" tungsten...I guess you could use that as a benchmark. With a preheat, I think you could do 2" OK. MiG would be easier, tho.

[rangerod]

Metal Tech

Just an update about the decision on the mig welder. I finally made up my mind & went with the power mig 300. After weighing all the capabilities of this machine I could not deny it was the one for me. Can't wait to put it to the test I was at Upper Heyford, U.K from 1985 to 1993

[David Boles]

Metal Tech
I have a new ( 2002)Syncrowave 250DX with the pulser features and LOVE that machine. One thing to consider is if you will ever use the machine as a stick welder. Supposedly the Syncowaves will work better as a stick welder.
I attended the Lincoln Motorsort welders school and got to try several of there high end inverter machines. One stopped working on me several times for no apparent reasons and had to be reset. ( I guess that is why we like Miller's !! )
My prior TIG experience was 18yrs with a Miller DialArc HF which NEVER needed repair and was non solid state.
Aso have the MM210 which has plenty of power for my applications.
My applications are mainly race car and fabrication under 1/4".
Dave

[rangerod]

Miller Dial Arc

David Boles

How did you like that miller dial arc What drove you to upgrade to the Syncrowave 250? How does that pulser feature assist in your processes? Thanks for any assistance you can give.

[metal tech]

Thanks Rocky, that is just the info I was looking for. My main idea is to be able to repair Alum heads, Intakes and such, most other fab requirements for Hot Rods is far thinner material. David, I wouldn't have a problem with a Synchrowave 250 except for the added AMP draw. Since I'll be using it in a home garage at first, the lower amp draw of an inverter machine is the right choice for me. I really don't plan on doing very much stick welding, and with the available mig wires it shouldn't be a problem. David, you mention a very good point: inverter reliability. I too have used those old DialArcs, never had a problem, just adjust the points and away you go.

Al

[Hobart Expert Rock]

HEY METAL TECH................. WHAT DID YOU FINALLY DECIDE ON........200/300 COMPETITION.............AH WE ALWAYS WANT TO KNOW...................... ALSO WELCOME ABOARD.............HOORAH......................... ............ROCK..........
[email protected]

[David Boles]

Rangerrod,
I really liked the DialArc and as I mentioned it was practically bullitproof.
It works really well on steel and s.s. and good on aluminum.
Scratch built several cars with it.
It worked well when I sold it to a female artist for sculpture work !
I was to the point in my aluminum welding, where I was ready for more adjustibility , like wave balance and the pulser. Especially for thin aluminum.
Then I realized , that i could sell the Dial Arc for what I paid for it ( bought used 18yrs previous ) and that pushed me over the edge.
I consulted my "master welder " in a big fab shop and he let me try the pulser.
It offers a lot of variations in thin aluminum that can influence the bead appearance and prevent burn through.
The power draw of the Syncowave 250 is not a draw back for me as, I specifically wired the shop for the welder and I am a hobbiest welder.
Dave

[metal tech]

300 wins

With Rocky D. saying his Synchrowave 300 could weld 1" w/o preheat, that's enough for me. I'll just have to shop around once I get back to the states in 3 months. Anyone know a good weld supply place in the Columbia/Sumter SC area? I'm really glad someone, posted about this board on the Miller site. Some very smart people around here, just hope I can add a little.

Al

[chub380]

Are you talking about a 1" by1" materal if so I am not certain one could get complete fusion with one pass with a 400 amp machine, perhaps I am not understanding this question. If you have used syncrowave 350 you should know its capabillitys it is pretty much like Rockeys 300. If you go that route be ready to dedicate a 100amp breaker to achieve full output.