Hey all...got another newbie question for you. I'm gearing up to get started on my Studebaker truck project. The details are spelled out in the website link below, but here's the Reader's Digest version:
I'm mounting a '51 Studebaker 3/4-ton pickup on an '82 Chevy Silverado CrewCab dually chassis. I'm going to have to shorten the frame about 12"-16" and I want to make an extended cab out of the Studebaker (need more room for my feet. I'd swear everyone in the '50s was only 4' tall!). I'll also be stretching the rear fenders out to accomodate the duals.
Therein lies the question. This is my first custom project, my first MIG experience (just got a HH175) and I have very little experience with bodywork....but I have plenty of enthusiasm and drive (not to mention a very understanding fiance'.) I've done some research towards the best methods of the cab stretch, and had basically decided on cutting the back of the cab off, flanging both sides of the gap, filling the gap with sheetmetal and fabricating braces for the stretched area. However, I've recently read that there might be some problems associated with flange welds on body panels. One bodywork expert's website suggests staying away from flange welds if possible, because "...the area with double thickness will be stronger than the metal around it, and sometimes these areas will expand and contract at a different rate than the adjacent single-thickness metal, so the edges of your patch may become visible on a hot day."
He DOES go on to suggest that "...there are times when you WOULD use an overlapped joint, such as when you are replacing an entire panel, like a complete roof or quarter panel."
I know this question might be better asked on a bodywork forum, but after reading the posts in both, I think I'm a little more confident in the experiences in the group here. So...considering my lack of experience in this arena, what would YOU suggest I do? Have any of you had problems with flange welds later down the road? I believe the Studebaker has 18-gauge sheetmetal, so it's plenty thick to minimize warping, but what do you think?
THANKS!
Keith
I'm mounting a '51 Studebaker 3/4-ton pickup on an '82 Chevy Silverado CrewCab dually chassis. I'm going to have to shorten the frame about 12"-16" and I want to make an extended cab out of the Studebaker (need more room for my feet. I'd swear everyone in the '50s was only 4' tall!). I'll also be stretching the rear fenders out to accomodate the duals.
Therein lies the question. This is my first custom project, my first MIG experience (just got a HH175) and I have very little experience with bodywork....but I have plenty of enthusiasm and drive (not to mention a very understanding fiance'.) I've done some research towards the best methods of the cab stretch, and had basically decided on cutting the back of the cab off, flanging both sides of the gap, filling the gap with sheetmetal and fabricating braces for the stretched area. However, I've recently read that there might be some problems associated with flange welds on body panels. One bodywork expert's website suggests staying away from flange welds if possible, because "...the area with double thickness will be stronger than the metal around it, and sometimes these areas will expand and contract at a different rate than the adjacent single-thickness metal, so the edges of your patch may become visible on a hot day."
He DOES go on to suggest that "...there are times when you WOULD use an overlapped joint, such as when you are replacing an entire panel, like a complete roof or quarter panel."
I know this question might be better asked on a bodywork forum, but after reading the posts in both, I think I'm a little more confident in the experiences in the group here. So...considering my lack of experience in this arena, what would YOU suggest I do? Have any of you had problems with flange welds later down the road? I believe the Studebaker has 18-gauge sheetmetal, so it's plenty thick to minimize warping, but what do you think?
THANKS!
Keith
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