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Self shield fluxcore welds: first time

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  • Self shield fluxcore welds: first time

    The wife doesn t care about this that much anymore, because she assumes that I can pretty much weld with anything. So Im going to show this to you guys.

    Saturday afternoon, I had my first real experience running a self shielded fluxcore wire. I was running an .030 Hobart Fabshield 23 (E71T-GS) on some 12 ga. The joint design was a T joint. After 3 welds I was able to produce beads similar to the pics that I am attaching to this post. I was amazed at the level of smoke residue and spatter that was left on the material after the bead. However, I was very happy to see how easily a wire wheel on my angle grinder removed all of this. Anyway here are the pictures. They aren t that bad for a first time are they?
    Last edited by Dan; 05-01-2009, 09:17 AM.
    MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
    Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


    PM 180C



    HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

  • #2
    To prove that the first one wasn t a fluke here is one more.
    MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
    Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


    PM 180C



    HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

    Comment


    • #3
      yea Dan, thats what mine looked like after the first attempt! NOT
      Thanks
      Gary Wolboldt

      Comment


      • #4
        Sorry about that I lost my internet connection. So hopefully here is the second picture.
        Last edited by Dan; 05-01-2009, 09:17 AM.
        MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
        Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


        PM 180C



        HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Dan
          Sorry about that I lost my internet connection. So hopefully here is the second picture.
          Dan, I have noticed that when pulling the weld, the flux covers the weld all over nicely, and when I push the weld, the flux kinda falls over to both side of the weld, and leaves no flux in the middle. Have you noticed the same results when pushing the weld?

          I'm presently doiing a six inch pipe job at work with my MM130XP, using .035" FCAW and getting some great results. ER71T-11 wire.
          My research tells me that FCAW is a viable alternative for E7018 stick electrode. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
          Last edited by Rocky D; 12-22-2002, 05:14 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            fluxcore

            Rocky D

            What brand of .035" fluxcore wire are you using? I really like Fabshield 21B but I am only able to find it in .030" diameter. I have had to resort to using the Lincoln .035" wire which is much stiffer and doesn't seem to run as nice a bead as the Fabshield. I think you mentioned in a previous post that you used Fabshield E71T-11.
            bitternut

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: fluxcore

              Originally posted by bitternut
              Rocky D

              What brand of .035" fluxcore wire are you using? I really like Fabshield 21B but I am only able to find it in .030" diameter. I have had to resort to using the Lincoln .035" wire which is much stiffer and doesn't seem to run as nice a bead as the Fabshield. I think you mentioned in a previous post that you used Fabshield E71T-11.
              My fave is any Hobart wire...I've run all sorts, and Hobart still runs best. At present, I have some Lincoln wire, and some Esab.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Rocky D


                Dan, I have noticed that when pulling the weld, the flux covers the weld all over nicely, and when I push the weld, the flux kinda falls over to both side of the weld, and leaves no flux in the middle. Have you noticed the same results when pushing the weld?

                I'm presently doiing a six inch pipe job at work with my MM130XP, using .035" FCAW and getting some great results. ER71T-11 wire.
                My research tells me that FCAW is a viable alternative for E7018 stick electrode. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
                Rocky,

                I havent tried pushing the puddle, because my understanding was that I was suppose to pull the weld with a self shielded fluxcore. Well I guess to run vertical up I ll have to push it won t I?

                I just found a roll of .030 Hobart E71T-11 in my inventory, so Im going to remove the E71T-GS from my machine and give the E71T-11 a try . According to the Lincoln handbook this wire classification is suppose to have a smooth spray type arc. Is there less spatter and smoke with this wire? I guess ill find out soon enough. By the way I removed the nozzle off the end of the gun. Is this the procedure that you follow too? Can t wait to see your pics. This stuff has hooked right know its a new challenge. Do you or anyone else have any sample vertical up welds to show me. This is going to be my next step in educating myself about this wire. What oscillation technique do you prefer for vertical up with it?
                MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
                Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


                PM 180C



                HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

                Comment


                • #9
                  Pipe Job

                  This is a section of pipe with a butterfly valve I will be inserting into a six inch hot water pipe run from our co-generation plant.

                  It is entirely welded with ER71T-11, .035" wire with a Miller 130XP 120v MIG machine.

                  I show in subsequent pictures, various components that are going to be installed in this pipe run also

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    All the welding was done on a Aronson weld positioner, which all the welds are in the vertical position as the pipe turned on the positioner.

                    By doing it inthis manner, I kept the flux from getting ahead of the puddle.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      As a precaution, I heliarced the inside, however, with a 1/8" gap, I was able to acheive 100% penetration.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        This is a "weldolet" weldeed to a flange. Notice the little buttons I heliarced on the mating edge t give me a gap when I install it on the existing pipe run. I'm going to be up in the air, so I figured this would be easier to maintain the gap, than to use a rod for the gap.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I dye penetrant tested them to be sure there's no voids. Dye on the inside...let it set for 15 minutes then spray the developer on the out side....any 'blood' showing means a quick repair. They were good to go.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            When I cut the pipe I don't want it to move in case there is a preload on it, so I will weld this frame on first, then cut the pipe.

                            In the back you can see the rest of the weldolets I'm going to use.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              This is a frame that I will clamp across the flanges on the valve assembly to lift it into position with a forklift. The pipe run is horizontal.

                              Corner clamps make it easy to maintain dimension and squareness. Then I tack the ends and corners of the joint to hold it for welding.

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