What would be the best cleaning procedure to use when welding on a used aluminum block? I would imagine that there would be oil in the pores of the aluminum and was wondering how much cleaning is necessary. I have a small engine block that has a small cut in the crankcase that was made when the connecting rod gave way and would like to see if I can weld it shut. Any suggestions on preparing it for welding?
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Re: Aluminum engine blocks
Originally posted by Mowjunk
What would be the best cleaning procedure to use when welding on a used aluminum block? I would imagine that there would be oil in the pores of the aluminum and was wondering how much cleaning is necessary. I have a small engine block that has a small cut in the crankcase that was made when the connecting rod gave way and would like to see if I can weld it shut. Any suggestions on preparing it for welding?
With that brand new 180SD, it should be childs play for ya!
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Thanks Rocky, I'll give it a try. It's not very thick at that point. I don't know if that's good or bad. And I think the 180 will have no trouble with it - I just don't know about me!
I don't have ready access to a steam cleaner, but it's small enough to put in a pot and boil it for a while. I wouldn't think that boiling it would hurt it.
Thanks again....
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Aluminum Engine
Mowjunk
If the part is not that thick & you can get to both sides of the crack, I suggest you rotary file the entire crack out removing minimal amount of material as possible. After it is ground out backup one side of the crack with a copper plate & fill the crack as required. Doing this will ensure all contaminants out of the parent material.
RangerodRangerod
Power MIG 300, Prince Spool Gun, Precision TIG 275, MM 210, Dynasty 300 DX, Dynasty 200 DX, Ranger 8 Engine Drive, Victor O/A, Ready Welder 10000 ADP, Hypertherm Powermax 1000 Plasma Cutter, Bridgeport 4 HP Series II Manual Mill, Leblond 15" X 54" Regal Servo Shift Lathe & various other doodads...[/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE]
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Aluminum Engine
Rocky D
I missed the part where you advised Mowjunk to rotary file the crack out. Did'nt mean to jump on your wagon.
RangerodRangerod
Power MIG 300, Prince Spool Gun, Precision TIG 275, MM 210, Dynasty 300 DX, Dynasty 200 DX, Ranger 8 Engine Drive, Victor O/A, Ready Welder 10000 ADP, Hypertherm Powermax 1000 Plasma Cutter, Bridgeport 4 HP Series II Manual Mill, Leblond 15" X 54" Regal Servo Shift Lathe & various other doodads...[/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE]
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Aluminum Engine Block
Mowjunk
I recommned 1/8" if you can get it. What the copper plate is going to do is act as a heat sink. It will help to keep the molten puddle from falling out as you are welding and the molten aluminum should not stick to the copper unless you put some serious heat on the part. If you have previously welded aluminum parts that were not very clean you know what I'm talking about. Alot of heat will start to build up until you get some of the contaminants burned out of the area, causing alot of heat transfer to the surrounding area. Good luck with your repair, just have patience with it.
RangerodRangerod
Power MIG 300, Prince Spool Gun, Precision TIG 275, MM 210, Dynasty 300 DX, Dynasty 200 DX, Ranger 8 Engine Drive, Victor O/A, Ready Welder 10000 ADP, Hypertherm Powermax 1000 Plasma Cutter, Bridgeport 4 HP Series II Manual Mill, Leblond 15" X 54" Regal Servo Shift Lathe & various other doodads...[/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE]
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Originally posted by chip hayden
don't know if this might help, but i often use solutions similar to mag wheel cleaner. any aggresive liquid cleaner with sodium hydroxide will degrease it well. just neutralize with fresh water, dry and it should weld quite well.
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Rocky D,
i concur with your concern regarding chemicals and the residue. Sodium Hydroxide is the main ingredient in many water soluble type cleaners for aluminum wheels and leaves no residue. i use to use TSP[trisodium phosphate] but the phosphate can be an environmental issue. i also try not to use acetone too much because of it's volatility[ and the fact it raises **** with my old hands].
years ago i use to work for a commuter airlines and had a product called "ultra-solv"[it was a purple liquid] it also contained NaOH and that's how i discovered how well it worked for cleaning and prepping al. parts for welding. it seemed a little safer than MEK and acetone. just my two cents.chip
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