Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cutting with stick welder??

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • dverwoert
    replied
    Cutting bolt holes intentionally in steel beams

    Originally posted by Welder-X View Post
    We use OAC for most of our needs in the shop, we break out the plasma for stuff thinner than 1/4". I've only ever used the CAC-A process for back-gouging, washing off backing strips, and the occasional u-groove preparation. I'm not sure if I even wanna try the version without compressed air.
    The CAC-A setup we have going is the afforementioned Arcair where the compressed air jets out from underneath a round, halfround, or rectangular, copper coated carbon electrode. The air jets through the arc, effectively blowing out the molten metal underneath. Jason either means Oxy-arc cutting, or has a setup I've never seen before, but oxy-arc is mainly for underwater and requires a special torch, not to mention, oxygen.
    Now that we're way off topic, cutting with stick: the cheapest way is like Mach4 said, with a 1/8 cellulose based mild steel electrode like a 6010 or 6011, dampened with water. Switch your machine to Electrode Negative and give it arround 95 amps. I've never done this personally, but the electrode should burn really slowly and the extra steam will help blow out the molten. That's a dampened electrode btw, not soaking wet, and the current settings are, of course, just a generalization.
    Works great with 6013 rods with ELECTRODE NEGATIVE mode using 200 Amps with 220V inverter welder.

    Leave a comment:


  • smyrna5
    replied
    Originally posted by 10Speed View Post
    Don't mean to hijack the thread, but Smyrna which Thunderbolt do you have, was thinking about purchasing one. Let us know if you try cutting with the stick welder again. Very interesting thread.

    10 speed.
    I have the older model its the 225 AC/DC model in this owners manual. It will do 225 Amps on AC and 150 on DC. Not much to go wrong with these old buzz boxes and you can get parts. They are very cheap on Craigslist.

    http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o316g_mil.pdf

    It looks like this in person, except mine's a little cleaner:

    http://billswelderrepair.com/sitebui...t2-256x384.png
    Last edited by smyrna5; 05-22-2008, 06:40 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • 10Speed
    replied
    Don't mean to hijack the thread, but Smyrna which Thunderbolt do you have, was thinking about purchasing one. Let us know if you try cutting with the stick welder again. Very interesting thread.

    10 speed.

    Leave a comment:


  • smyrna5
    replied
    Originally posted by knothead64 View Post
    I sometimes use the welder to cut with because it is so fast.
    I did it today on a piece of 1/8" angle. I used a dampened 3/32" 6011 on DC+ at 85-90 amps and cut right through. Just had a little grinding to do to clean up and wo-la !
    And it only consumed half the rod to complete the cut.
    I made my first cut ever with my Thunderbolt today on some 1/8 angle iron. The 10" rectangular cut I needed to make was going to be a bit awkward to get to with my sawzall and I really don't like cutting with the zip disc on my angle grinder. I knew I would need to grind it smooth anyway.

    So.. I stuck a 1/8" 6010 and a 6013 in a bucket of water. I only let them soak about 5 minutes and gave it a try. The welder was already set on about 110Amps on DC+. The 6013 cut but it was kind of slow and I couldn't seem to hold an arc with the 6010 on DC. So, I said 30 Amp breaker be ****ed, and flipped it to AC and cranked it up to about 200+ Amps. She cut like a champ on AC with both rods and fast. Plenty of fire and smoke and a nice roar (that is the only way I can describe the sound it made) to satisfy me lol. I only set the ground on fire a few times, but nothing my size 10 1/2's couldn't handle.

    The piece that I cut out did look a lot like it was chewed by a beaver, but the hole wasn't that hard to clean up with the grinder. I think if I weren't cutting it freehand, and had marked the lines with a marker, I could have made it a bit prettier. A handy tool when you need it.
    Last edited by smyrna5; 05-22-2008, 04:15 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Cronatron Rep View Post
    http://webapp1.cronatronwelding.com/...temNum=CW01906

    This product has alot less smoke and all you have to do is wire brush it clean after cutting/gouging to prep it for welding. They will work on Mild Steel, Stainless steel, Monel®, Cast Iron and Aluminum. Run them on AC or DC straight around 190 to 200 amps.
    I have used these babies and they are great....the ONLY drawback is that they produce more smoke than CAC...with CAC you get carbon embedding, and your grove should be ground before welding...with these no carbon input, less chance of catching something on fire 50 feet away, like CAC does. and I punched a hole through 2" of steel, just to see if I could....so they're good for making a starter hole in heavy plate....without the blast of air, you need with CAC, the danger situation is minimized. No, I don't work for the company.

    Leave a comment:


  • mcostello
    replied
    Nothing like finding out I've been doing it wrong lo these many years!

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtimer
    replied
    Sorry it took so long to answer. Makes the arc force harder and blows the molten metal off much easier.

    Leave a comment:


  • mcostello
    replied
    Switch polarity? You mean electrode negative? Why? Thanks for the info.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtimer
    replied
    I haven't done this in a while so it may be outdated. A huge amount of my work was field welding. I used a plain old A/O cutting torch in the field for every thing it would cut, cutting tip for regular cuts, scarfing tip for washing off welds.An Arc Air rig makes A/O look premitive for washing off welds but you need a compressor. The only time I used arc cutting, actually melting and blowing metal off with the arc force was on cast iron. I tried using arc gouging or "chamfer" rods but found plain ol' 6010 ( 5P, +P, HYP) would out perform them at less cost. Switch your polarity, turn the machine UP, make your cut on the bottom so gravity helps in removing the molten metal and wash it out. I used this strictly to remove cast iron parts, sheaves,etc. that couldn't be cut conventionally and that wouldn't come off any other way as it is junk when you get done.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Cronatron Rep View Post
    Cronatron Purchased Certanium in 2001. The number one company in Maintenance welding purchased the # 2 company, this was a great move by my company because there is a number of die-hard Certanium customers in the US and Canada. We now have 2 products in every class to offer.

    Here's the comparison for the 3 products you mentioned.

    Certanium 889 cast (84,000 psi tensile) / Cronatron 211 (84,000 psi tensile)
    Certanium 705 (130 psi tensile) / Cronatron 375 (175 psi tensile)
    Certanium 707 (120 psi tensile) / Cronatron 333 (125 psi tensile)

    Glad you like our products, not many folks here give them a chance due to our selling practices of not listing the pricing on line or in our catalogs.
    Those three rods are my all-time favorites...they also make a cuttrode Certanium 100 that cuts and gouges, like a dream...we called it "smoke rod"...I could fill the building with smoke in 5 minutes.
    Originally posted by mcostello View Post
    Worked in steel mill about 9 months, learned alot. Oxygen lance in operation was as follows, Take a wooden match light it and place on a piece of thin pallet wood, lightly turn on O2 flowing from 10" stick of 1/8" plain old pipe. O2 will get pallet wood burning quickly, place a small(1-2" piece of coal on burning wood play O2 on it. Coal will burn, then heat up end of pipe, will have sputtering type of burning, place against a piece of steel and let it heat steel up, then turn up O2 flow to what is needed. Took as long to type as to do it.
    The oxy lance I used was to remove a man-hole iron casting from the surrounding concrete...they were 5 feet long to keep you away from the exploding concrete....worked like a charm.

    Leave a comment:


  • electricbass
    replied
    *scratching my head*

    You didn't say what equipment you had to work with, or what you are cutting, but i am unsure why on earth you would want to use an arc machine to cut with if you have anything else available. Yes, you can cut with an arc machine, but the description a couple of replys ago about being chewed in half by a beaver is a pretty good description. Just use your torch! You'll be much happier with the results.

    Leave a comment:


  • mcostello
    replied
    Worked in steel mill about 9 months, learned alot. Oxygen lance in operation was as follows, Take a wooden match light it and place on a peice of thin pallet wood, lightly turn on O2 flowing from 10" stick of 1/8" plain old pipe. O2 will get pallet wood burning quickly, place a small(1-2" peice of coal on burning wood play O2 on it. Coal will burn, then heat up end of pipe, will have sputtering type of burning, place against a peice of steel and let it heat steel up, then turn up O2 flow to what is needed. Took as long to type as to do it.

    Leave a comment:


  • snoeproe
    replied
    this post is dated, for sure. but i've cut with 6011 with good results with my old dc machine.
    also, i am a huge fan of the certanium 702 and 707 electrodes. easy strike and re strike. excelent storage characteristic rods that don't absorb moisture.

    Leave a comment:


  • Teeps
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike W
    Cutting with a stick rod is fine if you don't mind it looking like it was chewed in half by a beaver. I did that years ago before I got my oxy/act rig. You do what you can until you have the right tools.
    ROFL!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • storts
    replied
    Gouging

    I Use to have a connecting rod to braze,every august,,,never in dec, but they were 18" thick,,so there was alot of veing out,,I always used 7024,cranked to the max 400 amps,and did a nicer job as if tou were hand grinding,I have to dig out my pre heater,a 50 gal tank of kerosine,and compress air,,heat up the end,and light it,I would come in at 4 am to preheat,,and 2 of us would start brazing at 6 am,,and finish about 6 pm,always the hotest days But The cust needed it,,and the money was good,probaby pour in 35 to 40 # of brass,,,and never had on failed,and best diet you could use
    Got to dig the heater out,,was loader than a 747,,Home made in the 20's- or 30's,But did the Job,,woke up the entire neiborhood,as the sound would echo out the front door,,Clean it up,after packing to cooldown,and pray you didnt hear the crack!!!!!!!!never did,,and then waited 90 days to get paid, Jack

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X