Newbie with 7018

[System-f]

I have been playing with my crackle box (old sears and robuck 230volt A/C box) for a couple of months now and am pretty comfortable getting good penetration on 1/8 6013s and 1/8th 6011s. The problem is with 7018s. I purchased some 5/32s Lincoln 7018s to be used on 1/4" thick mild steel and cannot keep the puddle going. The spark just seems to flame out on me, this is at about 150-180amp. I also tried some 3/32 7018s at around 70-90 amp on 1/8" and 1/16" mild steel and they do the same thing if I can even get the puddle started. Is the problem with me ,or the old buzz box?? I store my 7018s at room temp in a sealed container. When I do get the 7018s to work the welds are beautiful, though.

[MAC702]

7018 lights well the first strike, but sometimes takes a little more practice to keep it going well. Practice practice practice.

One tip: After the arc stops, it can sometimes take a while to start a new one on the same stick. Using the tap method instead of the striking-a-match method can work better; and sometimes it takes a hard tapping. The reason is because the shielding flux on 7018 will leave a thin layer over the end of the filler metal inside after welding. What I like to do, when convenient, is to have a small file nearby and give the end of my electrode a short stroke and it will relight as easily as a new stick.

[Fla Jim]

Systemf;
You need "7018AC" for your buzzbox.
Regular 7018 is a DC rod.

[System-f]

I have been purchasing the E7018H4R

"This is a low hydrogen electrode for high density X-ray, maximum crack resistance, or extremely thick weldments. This is electrode has a high iron powder content and is a medium/high deposition electrode.

For AC, and DC+ welding in all positions."


I have noticed the flux on the end of the stick and have also noticed that if I have a good puddle to push the electrode into the molten puddle to 'relight' it.

I really just wasn't sure if this was normal behaviour for a 7018 or it was just me or my box... Thanks

[Roger]

Your welder might have low open circuit voltage that makes hard to maintain arc during weave. Load voltage might also be a little low.

[kllrjo]

5/32 rod???? AWFULL large rod for that welder! try 3/32, it wont put the machine into the "duty cycle" qiute as quick

[echo8287]

DRY ROD

Also in addition to above bake rods in oven at 325 for 30 minutes just prior to welding and they should improve some. 7018 like to be dry. David

[Bender]

Something I was told to do was to "tap" the end of the rod on the piece your welding and hold it there to the count of ten. You will feel the current running through the rod. This is supposed to "warm" the rod and remove moisture.

This is not a substitute for the oven.

[customwelds]

When I used the big 1/4" or the closest 32 rod(5/32 maybe?) We ran machines over 200 amps. They ran GREAT at that amperage, looks like if you were to do the PERFECT weave bead with 1/8" or something haha.

[DrIQ]

The current settings you listed for the respective rod sizes will work well with DCEP but on AC you need to increase your weld current settings roughly 20%. The electrodes will still tend to snap out on you with the higher current settings

[Sberry]

As far as I know the recommendation on the box does say AC, but,,, the only time is huge electrodes. Those are not the right rods, get the Weld-It 7018AC.

[kllrjo]

sorry, missed the part about where you tried the 3/32 rods already, personally, i`v never had any good luck with the h4r 7018 on ac,,customer has a 225 "tombstone"[30% duty cycle] mounted on his boat and is always trying to get me to use it, instead of pulling up to the service dock and running my ac/dc engine driven welder[100% duty cycle] after a couple of times grounding the rod, the machine goes into the "duty cycle" and refuses to weld.... older machines are like this...smaller dia. electrodes will give you more welding time with these machines.. try this, with machine COLD, try running a 3/32 7018, will it weld? no? try a 6011, yes? then its prolly the rods, NO? then its prolly resistence in the machine

[enlpck]

You really need the 7018AC rod. It needs similar care to the standard 7018, but has A modified flux to help with AC. Keep it dry. DO NOT dip the end of the rod into the puddle if you want the weld to have good strength. This wil leave flux and slag in the weld, which is a dandy stress riser, leading to cracking. Also can drag other contamination into the puddle (arc is out so the shielding process rapidly stops. dipping the rod breaks the slag layer which protects the hot/molten metal and can drag in crud and allow oxygen into the weld area)

Also stick witht he smaller rods-much easier to hold the arc with and to strike. I tend to snap the slag off the tip with may thumb when the rod is still hot- builds strong thumbs, wears a hole in the glove eventually, but easy and builds into a reflex.

[Arc Burn]

A buddy of mine that taught me to weld got me in the habit of "breaking" the excess flux off after striking an arc,simply grab the end of the rod and give it a light snap and the excess falls off and the rod strikes instantly again,i've never had a problem since using this method and now it's such a habit that i do it on all rods without even thinking about it

[goff]

7108

Look on the packet/carton, you will see the specification for the 7108 rods, It will tell you the open circuit voltage that the 7108 needs to keep a stable arc and is usually around 75 volts ,some AC welding sets only have 50 volt open circuit,( look on the makers plate) the larger industrial sets usually have 2 tappings 50 and 85 volts, Use 85 volt connection and you will be ok, You will have no problem on dc , Electrode + ,Negative is simarlar to ac,