Tig stick out

[Junk]

Having some issues and I think it may be that I'm not using the correct stick out.

Process is tig, T/A185, T welding tube .125", using 1/16" 1.5% Lanthanated Tungsten, AC, #4 cup, no gas lens blah blah blah.

So how much stickout should there really be, and is it measured from where it protrudes from the end of the ceramic or from the brass?

Thanks.

[Aaron]

I think the "technical" definition is 1 to 1.5 times the tungsten diameter past the cup, not the brass. For your example, about 1/8" or just under should be fine for most applications.

There are exceptions. When the joint design creates a barrier for the shield, then more stickout may be used. Fortunately, this is usually the time when more is required to reach into the joint. A good example is an inside corner where three walls meet.

[manofsteel]

Maybe I didn't catch it, but are you welding steel or alum.

Walt

[Junk]

Thanks as usual Aaron.

ManofSteel - working with dom steel.

[manofsteel]

HI Junk
I assume your using DC

Walt

[Junk]

Originally posted by manofsteel
I assume your using DC

hmmmm, uh yeah, guess I did not exactly get that right when I posted the above. Sorry. I guess I could make up some lame excuse but can't think of anything decent right now. Yes, DC for steel. Thanks.

[Bobster]

Re: Tig stick out

At the SportAir TIG class, they taught us to place the cup against both tubes diagonally above the joint and stick the tungsten out nearly into the joint. In most cases this will be much more than 1-2 times the tungsten dia. With this much tungsten stick out you can then walk the cup around the joint pretty well and produce a nice weld. I can do about 1/4 of the tube dia before I have to re-adjust my position. This much stick out usually requires more gas flow. That's why both of my torches now have gas lenses.

[Bobster]

Re: Tig stick out

Oh yea, I use a #8 cup when welding tubing, also recommended by the Tig guys at SportAir. A good book on welding tubing is Finch's "Performance Welding". Good tips on Tig tubing techniques and equipment.

[manofsteel]

OK,
I have the T/A also...great tig machine, Just purchased some gas lens but have not installed on the torch yet.


Later
Walt

[Junk]

Thanks guys. Out of curiousity, if you have the T/A185, or any tig with the CK-17 torch, which gas lens are you using?

Thanks.

[Bobster]

Re: Tig stick out

I have a T/a 185 and the CK torch with their gas lense, I'll have to look for the receipts, I can give you all the part numbers for the lense, collets, ect. I know I have the 1/16" part numbers and maybe the 3/32" gas lense numbers also. I'm using another torch I got from Tig Depot, smaller, 125amp, with one piece, superflex hose-in-cable. It helps when you're wrapping your wrist around a piece of tubing to have as little drag as possible. The superflex cable was another thing I learned about at the SportAir clinic. Tried it there, liked it and bought it as soon as I got home.

Here's a picture of the stickout I'm using

[Bobster]

Re: Tig stick out

I'll try the picture again

[DEA]

Check this out www.ckworldwide.com
Download the techinal specifications for tig welding manual.

[aircraft]

Bobster does have the cup size right. Using a 7 or 8 is best with 1/16th unless you have a good reason not to and a fillet weld is not a good enough reason.

[Splatterboy]

Anyone else notice the comments on the AC vs DC though.

This makes no sense to me.

I have the T/A 185 and use it on AC for steel. This way you get to set it at 30% where you get the combination of DCEN and DCEP.

Why in the world would you have it set at DC when it is designed to do a better job on steel with AC?