Can't strike an arc

[ross932c]

I have a 50 amp, Lincol Electric Arc welder. I have used a Mig welder befor but not an arc. Everytime I try to weld, the stick always, ALWAYS gets stuck. I've been practicing for a month now and I still can't strike an arc, without getting the stick stuck to the metal. What is wrong? Is it me? Any comment will help, thank you.

[Paychk]

Welcome to the forum

Can you provide some details such as: type of rod, material you are welding, setting on the welder, and method you are using to start the arc?

[Sberry]

At the risk of being really blunt,,, give that thing to someone you really dont like and let them frustrate themselves for a month. I have never seen one work and you would need to be right at the electric panel to even stand a chance. No matter what you would have to set the dial wide open. The only thing it might possibly run is 1/16 6011 0r 6013. Nothing makes a guy want to give up worse than a machine that doesnt work. Lots of people have quit this wonderful process just for that reason. Had one in the ag forum bought a used Craftsman 120V wire machine because "didnt want to spend on something good to learn on" If you want something decent spend the 400$ on a StickmateXL235/160 and you wont be wondering if its the machine or yourself. It will run almost any kind of stick electrode made within its size range.

[ross932c]

I'm using 50 amps, lincoln 5/64 rods, and thick steel sheet metal. 1/16" -1/8" in thickness.

[axehind]

I have the same problem. I've found the scratch method the best way to keep this from happening though. Basically before the rod even touches the metal, it should already be moving.

axehind

[Jim314]

Ross, Sberry is right, it's not you, it's the welder. I can relate because I started, or attempted to start to weld with a 70amp Cambell Hausfeld. Never could get an arc going, nothing but sticking the 1/16 rod, over and over again. I finally gave up. My son came over and said "dad, that welder is a POS, if you want to learn to weld, buy something that will weld". I did and it made all the difference in the world. I now have a 225 AC machine. There's no comparison, even in the lower amp ranges. Those 50-70 amp machines are marketed to people like me, and maybe you, who don't know any better.
If I had it to do over again, I'd go with the machine Sberry is recommending.

[Paychk]

Ok this machine is on the small side, so you'll need to try and stack the deck in its favor. If at all possible no extension cords on the 110 side of the machine. Plug directly into a wall outlet. If you need extensions put them on the welding cables. Next, make sure your ground is as close to where you are welding and it is contacting bright newly cleaned steel. This is an AC machine so as Sberry27 has said AC rod only in 6011 or 6013, if you can find it in 1/16 that will help too. Last there are 2 methods for striking an arc, scratch and tap. Scratch is just that, like a match. Practice with the machine off first, you want the lightest touch possible, then try turning on the machine and strike the arc. But don't try to weld, all you are looking for is starting the arc and maintain it, keep the arc length around 1/8-3/16 if your machine will do it. The arc will be wild and dancing around but that is ok. When you can do that, consistently striking and maintaining the arc, now try to close up the arc to 1/16 or so and just keep the arc at a consistent length for welding. The other method is the tap; it is a little harder. Tap the electrode and immediately pull it up to 1/8, this should start the arc. This learning process occurs in steps and it maybe that you are taking too many at one time. First just strike and maintain an arc. If you are still startled by the arc, grab some 1/16 gas-welding rod and just play with the arc until you get used to the light show.

[KenCo]

Ross, make sure the rod is for an AC machine. I bought some 7018's once trying to show off for my friends. Couldn't get the darn thing to weld. It would only stick. Called my welding supply, they said did the rod have AC after the 7018 number, I said nope. They said come back and get 7018AC rods. Maybe this is your problem, maybe not. Like the others said, could be the machine........KEN

[echo8287]

Dry rods

One other comment,are the rods new and are they dry. Put a few of them in your oven on 350 for about 30 or 45 minutes. Try those (like the others replied above, probably small 6013 are the easiest) from the oven and see if that helps. Otherwise probably the machine.David

[horseman1]

I have a little buzz box with similar specs. You will only be able to weld with 1/16 electrodes. 6011 and 6013. I even went to the trouble of getting some 5/64. Nope, they just stick. Hope this helps.

[BillC]

Ross,

As a relatively competent stick welder, I find that 1/16 rods are hard to weld with. One reason is that they are thin so they have a tendency to vibrate after you strike the arc by scratching. I have taken to a two-handed arc striking method where I hold the stinger in my right hand, and I hold the rod close to the end in my left. I scratch, initiate the arc and set the arc length, then move my left hand up to the stinger to help stability while I burn the rod.

I also found a tendency to burn through thinner metal during the arc striking process. I compensate by striking on a temporary thicker tab piece right next to my intended joint. Make sense?

Have fun!

[dulknife]

ark strike

paycheck you and billc are right on i have a comparc 80 it welds very well for it's size with the 1/16 rod if you afford it
ken

[Thomas Harris]

If you can figure out a way, it just seems more sensible to get a unit with just a little bit more oomph. Stick welders are the least expensive of the processes as far as "bang for buck" goes.

[morpheus]

if it is at all possible I'd get another arc welder. I went pawn shopping on friday and found several Arc welders for $75-100 ... even found a fairly decent Miller Thunderbolt for $99 (AC only unit)

- jack