Fillet help

[ZINOM]

Hey all,

I'm pretty new to welding, and I have trouble with fillet welds and sometimes lap welds. I'm using a small (100 amp) Craftsman stick welder and when I try to weld a T-joint, the bead seems to want to attach to one or the other of the workpieces....not right in the crotch of the two pieces.

Although it looks like it's going where I want it during the process, when I chip off the slag I find the majority of the bead on one piece with some stray traces of the bead on the other....looks more like a messy glue-gun attack than a fillet weld.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

John

[Pangea]

Try holding a longer arc, then "drive it" where you want it to go.

[thingy]

Hard to say,practice makes perfect and all that,tee joint,stick,first pass right up the crack,mostly stringer not much if any weave to first pass up hill,than you filled up that tight area [and made a root bead],than next pass you put a little weave on it,pausing at sides for split second or so,kinda maybe. thingy

[tigster]

what kind of rod are you using?

[Sberry]

A lot of the problem likely has to do with the machine.

[Goodhand]

[QUOTE=ZINOM;293677]Hey all,

>>I'm pretty new to welding, and I have trouble with fillet welds and sometimes lap welds. I'm using a >>small (100 amp) Craftsman stick welder and when I try to weld a T-joint, the bead seems to want to >>attach to one or the other of the workpieces....not right in the crotch of the two pieces.

>>Although it looks like it's going where I want it during the process, when I chip off the slag I find the >>majority of the bead on one piece with some stray traces of the bead on the other....looks more like a >>messy glue-gun attack than a fillet weld.

>>Any input would be greatly appreciated!

It sounds to me that you are losing sight of the puddle, during the process. Try to concentrate on visualizing where the electrode and arc are, relative to the joint. Perhaps, you need a lens that focuses better at the work piece? Are you a bifocal wearer?

[Goodhand]

A lot of the problem likely has to do with the machine.

Sure... blame it on the equipment, instead of "pilot error."

[jerryo]

Tee/lap joints

You should be using a rod no larger than 3/32" for your machines' amperage. Sounds like you're using a 6013 rod, it is easy to get the results that you describe with this rod if you aren't careful with it. Be sure the rod is at a 45 degree angle to the joint, with about a 15 degree travel angle and move slowly and let the weld pool bisect the joint. (Use a short arc to keep the weld pool on both sides of the joint.)

[TOMWELDS2]

I'd try 6011 3/32". You need some 'heat' as Cary hinted.

[Black Wolf]

John,

If you have the choice of DC reverse polarity, try using 6010 rods 3/32" (65 amps) or 1/8" (85 amps). As mentioned before, watch your electrode inclination & puddle. Use a slight whip & pause motion as you progress, stringer bead, not a weave, the rods will do the rest.

Later,

[trial&error]

try preparing the joint prior to welding (remove the rust and paint) and place a tack on each end so the pieces are definitely electrically connected. you should then be able to direct the arc onto either piece or right down the middle if you'd like.

[ZINOM]

Wow, thanks for the help...yes I have been using 6013 as those came with the unit....I'll try the 6010 & 6011 and work on my technique as far as angle and the tacking idea.

I appreciate you guys taking the time...I look forward to some new practice!

John

[flange jockey]

zinom dont just throw your 6013 rods away,that would be a terrible waste,they are fine for fillet welds.just follow jerryo,s advice and use them up.these are larger rods than you can use but its exactly the same as with 3/32 say 90 amps.flange j.

[Zrexxer]

Wow, thanks for the help...yes I have been using 6013 as those came with the unit....I'll try the 6010 & 6011 and work on my technique as far as angle and the tacking idea. John

You won't be able to use 6010s, your little buzzbox is AC only. You'll be limited to 6011 in a cellulosic electrode. What's more, with the low open circuit voltage your machine has, you're fixing to find out why they call it "stick" welding when you start using 6011's Be prepared to spend some time getting the knack of striking an arc with 6011.

[ZINOM]

Thanks for the replies, I went and got some 6011 rods and some new 5/64" 6013's and have been using the 6013's....trying to keep my hand technique in mind.

As far as "stick" welding goes.....man!, I'm crap at striking an arc even with the 6013's ....I have been cheating and steadying the rod with my other hand so I can start better and keep it controlled. The parts I need to weld a lot of the time are 1/2" long, so I need to get it to look good from the get-go....there's no room for getting the bead back on track.

I have also tried to slow down a bit and watch the puddle and really see the parts melting and move accordingly....not just using my hand to guide the rod, but using my eye to guide my hand (but as I said, some of the beads are pretty short so there isn't always time to "zen-out" and watch the flow).

I've seen a dvd or two advertised on youtube, and thought about picking one up....I know my machining process changed (improved) after watching some machining dvd's and being able to see and hear how others used their machines. It can be slow going sometimes when you're teaching yourself a new skill....books of course are essential, but short of hanging around a welding shop, a video might make some things click easier.


Thanks for your input guys, it means a lot!

John