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  • #16
    This post seems to be right up my alley right now. I just bought a CYBERTIG CT-300. It came with a factory ON/OFF switch box on the tig handle. I would like to have the rheostat foot pedal control instead. I can only find "new" or reproductions for around $200. Has anyone built one of these? Any tips? Does anyone know of a original pedal for sale?

    Thanks

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    • #17
      Just wanted to confirm my experience that foot pedal potentiometer or wiring issues cause loss of current control in AC mode while DC still seems to work fine on these machines (mine is a '69 cyber tig 120) In my case the foot pedal potentiometer was wore out and resistance varied with position but was not linear (higher and lower through range) though it generally went up/down somewhat like it should. Resistance at times was far greater than 25kohms. I replaced the pot and all is back to normal.
      I did tweak the limit swich geometry in the pedal a bit so the switchs trips earlier in the pot's travel to get more range on the low end to reduce current further.

      One "feature" I'm not sure about... the old pot (which worked fine for years) would drop the current back to minimum at full pedal. That was really nice for welding aluminum of varying thicknesses and geometry conditions to do extra cleaning or manually pulse to get flow and cooling as necessary. Now with the new pot that feature is gone. I'm not sure if the old pot was intended to do that or not. I used a standard long life pot for the replacement so it doesn't drop back down at the end of travel.

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      • #18
        Hello All......Newbie to this forum asking for help....
        My machine is a Cyber Tig 300 (100 series)....it's exactly as Sr member "DriQ" described in a post to "Jim" on 08-07-2007.
        I've had this machine over 30 years & really, not much trouble...foot pedal wires, fusible link in the torch H2O supply line
        trying to remember to change the consumables more frequently....nothing too major.
        I'm a machine shop with SOME welding experience.
        I'm at a loss as to what happened today:
        While tack welding a small (HRS) frame together, suddenly the arc acts funky, then I loose it altogether.
        The foot pedal acts as an on/off switch for (what I think) is what you guys call HF.
        I get that "arc" (if you can call it that) & nada more, no matter where I'm at with the foot pedal.
        No other switch, setting or other control has any effect whatsoever.
        So.......can any of you guys point me in a direction I should go to remedy this?
        Thanks much for any input!
        gpdc

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