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stick welding with 7018

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  • #16
    Hey, wasn't Norman Peterson off of the show Cheers?
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    • #17
      Coal

      Originally posted by coalsmoke View Post
      Hey, wasn't Norman Peterson off of the show Cheers?
      First thing that came to my mind,NORRRRRRRRRRRRRMMMMMMMMM!!!!

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      • #18
        Originally posted by coalsmoke View Post
        Nope, not in my limited lifetime Of course, I could just be the odd one out. The only tests I've done were for the structural company when I got into the ironwork gig. And, IMO it makes sense not to have the tabs. If you can't help but make a mess of the starts and need to use starting strips, then you won't be much good welding iron togther. No starting strips used there, none that I came across at least. Are they common place elsewhere in the welding field? I always thought they were primarily used to help a welder pass a test, and didn't think anyone would use them in the field. Do you guys have to do at least one restart in the middle of the test coupon as well for your general structural plate tests?
        I think on the whole a guy would just rather not stop in the middle of a test run, if he could help it. I know I’ve done it more than once, and passed just the same.
        I never took a structural test where a grinder was allowed. So starting and stopping is somewhat of a gamble, and should be avoided if possible. Every pipe test I’ve taken, grinders were permitted. Always feathered the starts and stops.

        In my opinion when running any low hydrogen rod, if it’s stored to code specs. You won’t have any problems!
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        • #19
          Originally posted by Pile Buck View Post
          I think on the whole a guy would just rather not stop in the middle of a test run, if he could help it. I know I’ve done it more than once, and passed just the same.
          I never took a structural test where a grinder was allowed. So starting and stopping is somewhat of a gamble, and should be avoided if possible. Every pipe test I’ve taken, grinders were permitted. Always feathered the starts and stops.

          In my opinion when running any low hydrogen rod, if it’s stored to code specs. You won’t have any problems!
          I agree, rather not, but, here on the plate tests, they will make a mark where you have to restart. If you don't restart there or 'forget to show them' that you restarted, its an automatic fail. No grinders allowed either.
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          • #20
            Originally posted by storts View Post
            First thing that came to my mind,NORRRRRRRRRRRRRMMMMMMMMM!!!!
            See, I thought I knew the guy from somewhere
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            • #21
              Originally posted by coalsmoke View Post
              Hey, wasn't Norman Peterson off of the show Cheers?
              Yeah! That’s where JT has heard the name!

              I never met the man, have know idea who he was, don’t even know if he was alive. My dad worked for them for years.

              I know they were primarily a pipe fitter’s company.

              On that GE test facility there was a pipe weldor, Dave Mock I think was his name. At the time he was ranked 3rd in the world in Trans-Am racing. That was to be his last job as a pipe fitter, going into racing full time. He built his first car in Peterson’s shop.
              Dynasty 300 DX Tig Runner

              Survey says!!!!!!!!!!!!

              Blue is prettier than purple or yeller

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              • #22
                Originally posted by coalsmoke View Post
                I agree, rather not, but, here on the plate tests, they will make a mark where you have to restart. If you don't restart there or 'forget to show them' that you restarted, its an automatic fail. No grinders allowed either.
                That’s a new one on me.

                I never really put much thought into it. Just start in front of your stop, and slide back into the stop, make sure you tie in good and take off. Just 2nd nature to me, and I haven’t welded professionally for about 12 to 13-years.
                Dynasty 300 DX Tig Runner

                Survey says!!!!!!!!!!!!

                Blue is prettier than purple or yeller

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                • #23
                  Hey, my name is Norman Peterson!
                  Just joking, but on the porosity rod issue, it's probably got too much moisture in it. Put the can in your(cook) oven for 2 hours at 250 F. degrees . Or..............pick up another can. I usually start ahead of the stop and put it where I left off, usually without any problems barring other issues such as weather, water on the area where I am trying to weld or mental state.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by ivan View Post
                    I been practicing with 7018 rods lately and the first 1/4 inch of my weld has porosity in it. the rest of the weld looks great and I can beat on it with a 5 lb sledge hammer and not break it. I been using 1/8 inch mils steel with a 1/8 inch electrode on 100-120 amps. The electrodes most definatly have moisture in them as I have no oven Is it the rod or am I doing something I shoulodnt be doing? I drag the rod with no manipulation just a straight pull.
                    I'm not sure if you mean when you first start the rod only or when you restart and do a tie in. on your tie in you should start the rod (assuming you are welding from left to right) say about 2" to the right from where you are going to tie in. start it up ,drag it back pretty quickly not letting any weld build up, (be sure to stay in your groove or joint) keeping a longer arc than when you are welding, you should be burning good by the time to lay it on the end of your last weld. you could do this same thing when you first start your weld if it helps you with your porosity problem.
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                    • #25
                      I was on a job where they brought in buckets of run off tabs, I never used them and neither did anyone else that was qualified to be welding on this thing in the first place and we didnt have grinders. We have a Lincoln feeder with innersheild, an air arc head, a chipping hammer and wire brush for when you couldnt knock the slag away. Never a problem with starts and control with wire is so good for out of position you could put in some fantasticaly clear weld deposits. I have stopped in the middle of test plates too. Start filling a big groove with a rod you have to.
                      Last edited by Sberry; 10-17-2006, 11:07 AM.
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