Learning Tig

[snake]

I recently bought a Hobart tigmate to further my shop processes and alow myself more flexibility. My question is: I am fairly proficient in Mig and Stick welding and am having a bit of problem picking up the Tig. I started out trying to weld aluminum and I am starting to see the puddle and run some filler metal into it, but when I try to join two peices togeher I am not having much luck. Should I start out on seel for practice? I need some advice on where or what to begin on to learn how to break into this level of welding..Thanks

[Guest]

Welcome to the forum, snake. TIG has a steeper learning curve when coming from MIG or stick...You can master the movements quicker with steel than with aluminum. Be patient and practice. If you can post pictures of your welds here and we can critique them for you.

[Jerry]

I would recommend steel for starting out. I think just running puddle in a straight line first, then try a lap joint, corner then a T or fillet last for this will need more filler rod then any of the other joints and more heat.

[jason]

Snake,
I say keep trying, I personally found aluminum the easiest metal to TIG weld. You'll get it. Aluminum conducts heat so well that after you start running the bead you will find that you have to let off the pedal because the puddle will start to outrun the torch!

Jason
________
vaporgenie vaporizer

[snake]

Thanks for the info guys. I think I made the mistake though of getting the tourch control instead of the foot control. Im gonna try and swap it out...it would be easier to operate if the dial went front to back instead of side to side. Also could someone enlighten me on the corralation between the diameter of the electrode ver. the metal thickness or power?

[Guest]

Originally posted by snake
Thanks for the info guys. I think I made the mistake though of getting the tourch control instead of the foot control. Im gonna try and swap it out...it would be easier to operate if the dial went front to back instead of side to side. Also could someone enlighten me on the corralation between the diameter of the electrode ver. the metal thickness or power?

Here's some readin' for ya:

http://www.millerwelds.com/education/tech_articles/articles30.php

[snake]

I see they talk alot about an inverter and some on squarewave technology. How does it all sum up with the small tigmate I bought? I have pure tungsten for aluminum in 1/16th and 3/32nds. In my welding book it does say that even though you sharpen the tungsten in a crayon fashion, it will quickly ball on the end. And it does, but I still dont know the benefits of my two different thicknesses. Im just trying to soak it all in so I have the correct balance for practicing.

[Scott V]

Snake,on your machine when welding with ac current try to stay with 3/32 tungsten size.It will take the amps better than the 1/16 size.That's where a big difference is between a inverter,and your machine,you can go smaller with a inverter.Zirconiated brown tip tungstens on ac will take lots of amps compared with pure green tungstens.On dc for most thing you can get away with 1/16 size of the right type,red,or black tip.keep the material size with that machine in the 16 to 11 guage till you get the hang of it.

[Dan]

Snake,

I have an Econotig, which is the Miller version of the Tigmate. I would definately try and get the foot pedal it makes the process much easier. I also agree with Rocky D and Jerry, try welding mild steel first you will discover that it is easier. It is important though to make sure that you only weld on bright shiny metal -NO MILL SCALE. ER70S-2 for your filler rod. For this size of machine on the DC (straight polarity) side, a 1/16" 2% thoriated tungsten is the largest diameter that you really need. So, I guess this means I agree Scott again. Scott is also right about the 3/32" pure tungsten for AC.

Recently, I ve been using my machine on 1/8" aluminum, with very good results. I ve been using a 3/32" pure tungsten and 1/8" 4043 filler rod. I tried taking some picture but none of them turned out. Oh well, I will try again next time.

[Henro]

Originally posted by RockyD

Here's some readin' for ya:

http://www.millerwelds.com/educatio.../articles30.php

Rocky D,

Thanks for pointing us newbies at that link!

Wonder why I never found that on my own?????? Excellent info with nice clickable charts that makes them easy reading.

Great article!

[awill4x4]

Probably the one issue I have with the current crop of inverter Tig machines is the manufacturers love affair with digital readouts and this is basically across the board with most manufacturers.
The main problem I have with them is the fact you have to go through a menu to get to the feature you wish to change, and on these inverter Tigs there's certainly a lot of features to play with.
Sure, they are accurate in general and they appear to be reliable (time will tell) but I find it's far quicker to turn a dial and a quick glance at the machines face will give you an instant idea of approximately where you are in regards to your settings.
My OTC machine is very up to date with regards to features and technology but they have the right idea of using dials and switches to change the parameters and be it AC balance, pulse frequency, wave form,base and pulse amperages etc, etc, it's a simple matter to just flick a switch or turn a dial.
To some other weldors, it seems confusing and cluttered but when you get used to it, it makes changing settings easier and faster.
A friend of mine has a sheetmetal shop just down the road and he has a new Kemppi Tig with all the bells and whistles and he finds it much harder to keep track of exactly where he is with regards to settings.
I like the features of modern Tig's but I think some of them need to be more user friendly.
Regards Andrew.

[Vernon Henry]

Hi Snake! May I suggest that if you really want the foot petal go ahead and get it, but dont trade off your hand amp control. Foot petals are nice for welding at a bench where you can sit on a stool, but not practical if your on your knees or laying on your side.

[Scott V]

Originally posted by awill4x4
Probably the one issue I have with the current crop of inverter Tig machines is the manufacturers love affair with digital readouts and this is basically across the board with most manufacturers.
The main problem I have with them is the fact you have to go through a menu to get to the feature you wish to change, and on these inverter Tigs there's certainly a lot of features to play with.
Sure, they are accurate in general and they appear to be reliable (time will tell) but I find it's far quicker to turn a dial and a quick glance at the machines face will give you an instant idea of approximately where you are in regards to your settings.
My OTC machine is very up to date with regards to features and technology but they have the right idea of using dials and switches to change the parameters and be it AC balance, pulse frequency, wave form,base and pulse amperages etc, etc, it's a simple matter to just flick a switch or turn a dial.
To some other weldors, it seems confusing and cluttered but when you get used to it, it makes changing settings easier and faster.
A friend of mine has a sheetmetal shop just down the road and he has a new Kemppi Tig with all the bells and whistles and he finds it much harder to keep track of exactly where he is with regards to settings.
I like the features of modern Tig's but I think some of them need to be more user friendly.
Regards Andrew.

Andrew,I agree with you 100%.My Thermal 300 prowave is that way,and it was the main reason I picked it over a dynasty 300.

[snake]

I received my foot pedal today and thought id try some steel. This is absolutly my very first weld on 1/8th steel using a 3.32 electrode with 3/32 filler rod. I still didnt get 1/16 electrodes for steel. I can see how much easier it is to weld steel than aluminum as it seemed so simple and more controlled. I got very good penetration as you can see the entire run on the back of the steel. Im gonna practice a bit more with the steel and then go back to the aluminum.

[HackAsaw]

Personally, I've found aluminum the most difficult to weld and still know what I have when I'm done.

I've found titanium wets the easiest and flows like butter. If you are very steady, smooth, and fast...... you can almost make invisible welds that pass bend test nearly right off the bat.

Steel next and then stainless although stainless does make nicer welds once you get the absolute hang of making those bright welds from putting just the right amount of heat in........ stainless is usually devoid of impurities and such you weld over in a lot of black steel. Black/mild steel does take a more serious gaze to detect if the weld really is good or bad whereas stainless shows you beyond all doubt from ten steps.

Just my novice observations

Here is one of my very first welds with a tig....... it was a Miller so that likely explains why it has a peck in the middle



I'll post some recent ones soon.
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FZ6