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Corner joint w/mm210

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  • Corner joint w/mm210

    I need some help on welding a corner joint. First I'll tell you I have a MM210 using .035 wire and 75 25 mix gas. My problem is should I use a stringer bead or a weave pattern? The steel is 1/8, when I run a stringer bead it just kinda looks like blobb. I mean it's even, there's just no ripple to it. I tried the weave and it doesn't look much better. I went by the setting inside the door, I know that they are close and I might need to adjust. All my other joints have a nice ripple to them. I ran a stringer bead on a lap joint and it rippled niceley, same steel same settings. I pretty new to all this, I 've only had my welder for a little over a week. I know it's probably hard to say without pics. I have a digi. camera but I can't get a clear pic thats close enough to see anything. Anyway any help would be greatly appreaciated.

    Thanks, Albie

  • #2
    I will guess your welding on outside of the 90 degree joint. Lets say you lean 2 pieces 1/8" thick metal 4X4 in 90 degree inverted V and weld in the V groove formed. That type of joint takes the least heat (amps) because your heating only the thin end of the metal. Turn down your amps if you think it is too much. Welding lap joint your welding end of one piece of steel to the top of the bottom piece of steel. The bottom piece conducts heat in more directions than the top piece. So you direct the arc more into the bottom half of the joint.

    Filet welds on inside corners such as Tee joints, or lap welds require more amps than butt joints or outside corner welds.

    With practice you'll learn to adjust welder settings for different joints and or the way you weld (electrode angel, travel speed, and weave) to account for the different joints.

    The settings inside the door are only a guide to get you close. Each weldor will like her settings higher or lower.
    Last edited by Guest; 05-09-2003, 05:08 PM.

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    • #3
      Thanks Roger, that does make sense. I will turn down the amps and try that. Your right, I just have to experiment with the settings until I figure it out.

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      • #4
        Your digital camera is like an old box camera that can only focus to within 6 ft closest. That's ok it probably has excess pixels just shoot as close as it will focus. Cut out the wasted image so only weld is shown and post that as it probably then only has the limited file size this board will take for posting. Think of it as zooming in to get closer view.

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        • #5
          Albie,

          I would start out by trying the 14 ga settings on the door chart. You also might need to step down to voltage tap #2, however, I really don t know yet. I might have sometime tomorrow to give it a try myself. If I have the time I will return with my results.
          MigMaster 250- Smooth arc with a good touch of softness to it. Good weld puddle wetout. Light spatter producer.
          Ironman 230 - Soft arc with a touch of agressiveness to it. Very good weld puddle wet out. Light spatter producer.


          PM 180C



          HH 125 EZ - impressive little fluxcore only unit

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          • #6
            Dan,

            That would be great! I always like lookin at your welds they give me something to shoot for. With a lot of practice and a couple miles of wire, hopefully I'll be able to lay a bead as nice as you do.I'll try and get some pics on here soon, my beads aren't the greatest but for a beginner I'm pretty proud of them.


            Albie

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            • #7
              Is your joint set up corner to corner? I would not use a stringer, but a back and forth motion. Forward to penetrate, and back to fill.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Rocky D
                Is your joint set up corner to corner? I would not use a stringer, but a back and forth motion. Forward to penetrate, and back to fill.

                Rocky D,
                Yes, mine is set corner to corner like in your attatchment. I tried a weave but I think the amps were to high like Roger was saying. It made the edge of te metal kinda jagged looking, almost like it was cutting it. So that was when I tried the stringer bead. I'm not quite sure what you mean by back and forth, Is that like a weave?I haven't had a chance to use the welder in a couple days, but i'm anxious to start buzzin again.

                Albie

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Albieweldinsoon



                  Rocky D,
                  Yes, mine is set corner to corner like in your attachment. I tried a weave but I think the amps were to high like Roger was saying. It made the edge of te metal kinda jagged looking, almost like it was cutting it. So that was when I tried the stringer bead. I'm not quite sure what you mean by back and forth, Is that like a weave?I haven't had a chance to use the welder in a couple days, but i'm anxious to start buzzing again.

                  Albie
                  Yeah, it's kinda like a weave, only when you move back to fill yo must watch your build up, so that it will catch the edges. You may be traveling too fast, also...it's hard to diagnose through the typeface in a post...need to see pictures.

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                  • #10
                    Yeah I know I'm gonna work on figuring out the camera as soon as I get time. Just too many things to do.

                    Albie

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                    • #11
                      Back & forth motion along line of travel of stringer is called wipping.

                      Can also use that motion to fill in crater at end of weld. Good MIG TIG welding habit to hold torch in welding position until puddle cools and not pulling torch away as you stop weld.

                      Starts are often a little in front of last stop then whiped back to end of old bead to prevent cold starts.

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