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Correct Sticks For Welding Exhaust

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  • Correct Sticks For Welding Exhaust

    Hello. I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find a reference showing the best rods (and settings) to use on exhaust and anything else weldable with a stick welder? Thank you in advance for any help! Ken
    zigsgarage

    Hobart Stickmate LX ,235AC/160DC ,230V ,W/O run gear

  • #2
    I dont believe I've ever seen anybody weld up exhaust systems with a stick welder. Usually they're welded with oxy/acet or MIG. Are you talking about auto exhaust or industrial stationary engine type?
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    • #3
      i know lots of people that do auto exhaust with stick. You might as well use JB weld and get as quality work as with stick, but it does get the job done. You'll obviously need some 3/32" or maybe even 1/16" but then you can go with whichever kind of rod you prefer. 6010,6011,6013,7014,7018 etc....

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      • #4
        Also with settings they will be below 50-60 amps for sure. not exact on what they will be as they will differ with each rod, And I doubt you will be able to run a full bead around, obviously unless you have your heat down enough.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 81Malibu
          i know lots of people that do auto exhaust with stick. You might as well use JB weld and get as quality work as with stick
          Thanks a bit of an exaggeration.

          It can be done well but requires skill and practice. Personaly I'd go with a 1\16" 6013. They are designed for GP work and exhaust tube and sheet metal. I'd run them at between 30-50A.

          Andrew
          Andrew.


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          • #6
            I just finished up a little project here at home with my Stickmate AC/DC with some really light angle iron... used up an old bed frame to make a firewood cart.

            I set my unit up to run straight polarity (DC-) with 3/32" 6011 @ about 50 amps. Absolutely no burn through and I could control the puddle easily. On the pipe, I'd say do something similar, probably 6010 or 6011 1/16 rods and run it DC- . I've never run that small of rod, so you'll have to figure out the amps on your own.

            I'm no expert by any means, but I hope this helps... it's what I would try if I were doing the same thing.
            Brian
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            • #7
              Originally posted by Skooter
              Thanks a bit of an exaggeration.

              It can be done well but requires skill and practice. Personaly I'd go with a 1\16" 6013. They are designed for GP work and exhaust tube and sheet metal. I'd run them at between 30-50A.

              Andrew
              That's good advice Skooter I've done it myself I don't like exhaust work and it's been quite some time since I did any.But if I was caught in a pinch 1/16" 6013 or 6011 and burn'er up.
              It's only a mistake if you don't learn from it!!!!! Wrenchbender
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              • #8
                JB Weld??????? Pleeeeeze. Give me a few 3/32 6010's or 6011's and stand back. It won't be spot welded either. Full bead all the way.
                Don


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                • #9
                  Originally posted by zigsgarage
                  Hello. I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find a reference showing the best rods (and settings) to use on exhaust and anything else weldable with a stick welder? Thank you in advance for any help! Ken
                  You're not going to find a flow chart, that's for sure. What you're looking for will probably end up being several if not numerous documents.

                  I've got a little hand book, not welding related, but has welding info in it. It shows 6013 by 1/16th rod in the 25 to 40 amp range and 5/64ths at 25 to 60 amps.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 81Malibu
                    i know lots of people that do auto exhaust with stick. You might as well use JB weld and get as quality work as with stick, but it does get the job done. You'll obviously need some 3/32" or maybe even 1/16" but then you can go with whichever kind of rod you prefer. 6010,6011,6013,7014,7018 etc....

                    I don't know about that. The Fire Department I work for has built 4 wildland trucks, 2- 5 ton 6x6's and 2- 5/4 ton units. I built all of the exhast for the 6x6's and one 5/4 ton with my '65 red face SA 200 and 1/8" 6010 (because that's all I had on my rig), with better results than the public works welder did with his WIRE machine. If you know what you are doing, you don't need JB weld . So far I haven't run across anything that somebody just absolutely had to have welded with a wire machine ('cause it's the best ) that I couldn't do with my gasoline rig. Just because a few people in this world can't do something well, doesn't mean everybody can't. Chris

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 81Malibu
                      Also with settings they will be below 50-60 amps for sure. not exact on what they will be as they will differ with each rod, And I doubt you will be able to run a full bead around, obviously unless you have your heat down enough.
                      The exhaust was welded in place on the 6x6's and tacked up in place on the 5/4 ton and welded off the truck. All the joints in each of the 3 systems were welded in one pass, 1 o'clock back around to 1 o'clock on the big trucks, and 12 o'clock back around to 12 o'clock. Chris

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                      • #12
                        I recently did a fix-it job on an exhaust and here's what I did.

                        I used 6013, DC -, around 80ish amps w/the rod being 3/32 dia. Not sure why this worked better with a larger diameter rod than 1/16, but it did.

                        Before I welded on the "real" exhaust, I played around with some scrap to dial in my settings and practice. I had lots of burn through, but realized I was DC+.

                        I think what made the difference was that the 3/32 diameter rod put down a lot of metal and allowed me to move across the exhaust faster, limiting the amount of heat in one area - preventing burn through, but getting a lot of puddle to make my weld at the same time.

                        Good luck,
                        Bill

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                        • #13
                          I welded an exhaust with my hobby weld with 6013 i believe, i cant really remember. but it turned out ok for a 13 year old doing it. my welder was on 50 cause thats its only setting it has and i dont think i burned any holes. now i got a mig though, doing exhaust is easy.
                          hope it goes well for you.
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                          • #14
                            I ran short (1/2-3/4 inch) beads on the grass/blade baffle to mower deck, probably a little thicker than exhaust, using 1/8 6013, DC- at 120 amps. I think the combination of thicker rod for deposition, high amps for a stable arc and DC- to limit the heat on the metal all helped. I have not 1/10 the experience of many guys on this board, yet I didn't burn through and the welds are still holding. DC is so much better, it was worth the extra $.
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                            • #15
                              i prefer mig but i've done plenty of exhaust work using a stick welder with low amperage dc on about 60-70 amps using 3/32 6013 rod since its not as messy and doesn't run as hot as 6011 so it wont burn through and will run just great if you know what your doing.
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