Newbie to Foot Control, any hints? Rock: Look at this one.

[John Ricks]

So, sitting on the cart is a hardly used Maxstar 151 with Snap Start. I have done a lot of stick welding, and OA gas welding, but TIG is a new toy for me. Have yet to plug in the Maxstar, I will be running a new branch 220V circuit for it this weekend.

Any hints on arc starting, foot control use, etc? My hunch is to set the 151 to a good amp setting for the tungsten size, then position the TIG torch while peering through the Speedglas, then press on the pedal until the arc starts. Then control the heat with the pedal.

I will be using 1/16" and 3/32" Tungstens. Mostly welding carbon and alloy steels.

And for Rock's eyes only (as told to me by Scott), take a look at the Shop Web Site below if you are bored.

[Scott V]

Website

John,I will liven up you link so others can see you stuff.More awsome then your shop is your work,very nice.In that rifle shot in the woods I think I see big foot?

http://home.earthlink.net/~rifles/

[cope]

John, do you know a stock maker named "Bear"?

GGVG!

[John Ricks]

'Da Bruin???

We have been on a few adventures involving Maple Trees, Logging, Sawmills, and Stock duplicators. Plus a few assorted "Chain Saw Massacars". Even some Cougar Chasing.

Those big Maples are true widow makers, with the huge limbs and unbalanced trunks you do not know where it will fall until it hits the ground. "Don't linger at the stump!!"

Mike The Bear's shop is about 10 miles from mine.

I used to visit GGVG, been a while.

[cope]

I thought you knew the buzzard, but I wanted you to have a chance to deny it. A couple of years ago Mike was asked to ost a good picture of himself for the board to see. I remarked that a good picture of Bear would be an oxymoron. Bear told me Santa was giving me sticks for Christmas. I told him that was OK if they were big enough to make a pair of grips for my 1911. He emailed me for my address and right after Christmas I received a box of beautiful maple. He is a character.

[Hobart Expert Rock]

JOHN RICKS...........AH WELCOME ABOARD..........NICE SITE.... I'VE ALWAYS BEEN PARTIAL TO THOSE KIMBERS AS HAS BEEN MY BROTHER.................HE EVEN NAMED HIS CHOCOLATE LAB KIMBER.......HMMM..........OH ON THE MAXSTAR I THINK YOU GOT IT PRETTY MUCH FIGURED OUT..............IF I'M EVEN IN YOUR NECK OF THE WOODS I'LL GIVE YOU A SHOUT AND STOP IN.......... HMMM I WILL BE IN PARADISE VALLEY MONTANA AROUND SEPT, OCT. OR NOVEMBER FOR ABOUT 3 WEEKS..................GOING TO VISIT AN OLD FRIEND ON TOP OF HIS OWN MOUNTAIN AND DO A LOT OF HUNTING.........................WHEELS ARE TURNING HERE........ ENJOY THE SITE AND LET US KNOW HOW THE TIG WELDING GOES MAYBE EVEN POST SOME PICTURE'S................ I THINK WE WOULD ENJOY THAT........................ ................................................RO CK....
[email protected]

[Ed in Ga]

John,
Great website. You do some very nice work.
You've also wandered a ways from War Eagle country.
Welcome.
Ed

[Scott V]

John,since nobody seems interested in welding anymore,I will say what you posted is how you do it.

[John Ricks]

Thanks Rock and Scott for the hints. I am looking forward to the TIG process for nice clean welds and minimum heat input.

Anything to look for in the "puddle" as I adjust the amperage via the foot control?

I assume "Pushing" of the cup means advancing into the new metal while adding filler. For a righty like me, this means filler rod in left hand, torch in right, and advancing to the left.

So, for TIG on carbon steel, DC Negative on the tungsten electrode, "Pushing" the cup and controlling heat via the foot pedal.

Sound OK?

And for Rock, I assume the Snap Start HF drops out after the arc is established? How close should I position the tungsten to the work when starting the arc?

Thanks again!


And, how much time for post argon flow?

[Ed in Ga]

John,
As a baseline one second per 10 amps current for post flow.
You should be able to find an amperage for steel allowing you to floor the pedal and only slowly back off at the end to not leave a crater. DC neg is correct. Rest the cup on the work with the tungsten close to the metal to start the arc. You've used O/A before so the process should be easier for you than someone like
myself who had never welded. AC start should drop out after the arc is established but I'm not familiar with your unit.

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but Scott mentioned this was a welding forum.
Ed

[cope]

Originally posted by Ed in Ga
John,
As a baseline one second per 10 amps current for post flow.
You should be able to find an amperage for steel allowing you to floor the pedal and only slowly back off at the end to not leave a crater. DC neg is correct. Rest the cup on the work with the tungsten close to the metal to start the arc. You've used O/A before so the process should be easier for you than someone like
myself who had never welded. AC start should drop out after the arc is established but I'm not familiar with your unit.

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but Scott mentioned this was a welding forum.
Ed

Ed, sorry to be a part of the digression Just happy to see an old face around a new location.

[Ed in Ga]

Cope,
I meant correct my advice if I were wrong. I was part of the digression too. On rereading my post it was poorly written.
Oh well...
Ed

[Scott V]

Ed,not Bob,You machine drops out the hi freq on ac,and dc.Johns machine is dc only,and it uses hi freq to start the arc then it drops out.Transformer ac/dc tigs leave the he freq on at all times during ac tig to keep the arc from going out when passing from electrode + to electrode -.Inverters are way to fast to care about stuff like that.

John,you can cut back on time for post flow if your tungsten is not turning colors.play with it,and you will know what is right for your setup.

Think about getting a gas lens for your torch to save on argon.That will cut the use to about half.You don't have to get a huge one so you can still get in to where you want.Plus you can use more tungsten stickout to help for certain jobs.