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I am somewhat new to TIG welding, so I could use some help. I am in the process of butt welding 18 guage cold roll steel sheetmetal, and I am getting some popping in my welds. I have thoroughly cleaned my sheet with degreaser followed by acetone, and I have cleaned my filler and 2% thoriated tungsten with actetone prior to welding. I am welding with a max amperage setting of about 55. I have been told that having the heat too long on the weld can cause this. Is this true? Also, I have a tendency to go a bit light on the footpedal as far as reaching the max amp range. Can spending too much time on the weld area with a lower heat cause the popping? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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I'm no expert, but can share my own experience. I was doing a project on sheet metal and used the copper colored mild steel filler, which if I'm not mistaken are for oxy-fuel. I got a lot of porosity so I switched to stainless. It wasn't critical and was a big production job where stainless cost was going be prohibitive so I used it and had no more bubbles. I'm convinced that the coating was what caused the problem. Maybe one of the experts can pipe in.
Dave H -
The popping usually occurs before you add the filler metal to the puddle. Mild steel needs the addition of the filler metal to prevent the popping. Stainless filler makes a nice weld with no popping. However, you should be able to get the same results with the proper mildsteel rod, too.Comment
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Re: TIG contaminatin
Ben: Is the"popping" all the way along your weld? Or just at the start? If at the start you might be long arcing or tortch angle wrong. If all the way along it could be the same or. What is the shop like? A little drafty? You might need a gas lens on your tortch. Or leaky connections? Argon pressure to high or to low? I'am guessing your using 70s? You can get porosity with to low of heat for application. It should just flow. My Daddy always said if you have to fight the weld you're doing something wrong. Like Rock said keep the wire in the puddle to start then you can dip or leave it right in the puddle. Personnaly I leave it right in. Then either free hand or walk the cup. Depends what I did the night before. StuOriginally posted by Ben
I am somewhat new to TIG welding, so I could use some help. I am in the process of butt welding 18 guage cold roll steel sheetmetal, and I am getting some popping in my welds. I have thoroughly cleaned my sheet with degreaser followed by acetone, and I have cleaned my filler and 2% thoriated tungsten with actetone prior to welding. I am welding with a max amperage setting of about 55. I have been told that having the heat too long on the weld can cause this. Is this true? Also, I have a tendency to go a bit light on the footpedal as far as reaching the max amp range. Can spending too much time on the weld area with a lower heat cause the popping? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.Comment
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STU: I've been fighting roughly the same problem. I think that the advice of our more knowledgeable pros is good. The copper coated mild steel could be part of the problem. If your like me and have to order everything (I'm 140 miles from even the nearest Wallyworld) and have access to only Oxy filler, I found a trick. Try to find a gunshop that sells "Barns CR-10" gun cleaning solvent. It will strip the copper off of the rod but quick (follow container directions, if you leave it on too long it will etch the steel). You'll have to clean the CR-10 off with something, but that **** copper will be gone. My 2 cents. HunterComment
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Trust me...copper coating is not your problem. I use it all the time. Stu gave you good advice
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Let me reiterate, the copper is not your problem. You have been given some good advice here, pay attention.Respectfully,
Mike Sherman
Shermans WeldingComment
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Copper TIG
Copper isn't your problem. ER70S-3 or 6 is for TIG welding. Add the filler rod a bit quicker and keep it moving. Do not go back and attempt to fill the weld. Actually, for Oxygen & Acetylene welding, rods that contain silicone are not recommended. You should use an RG type filler for this.Comment
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Re: Re: TIG contaminatin
Stu,
Thanks for the advice on the "TIG Contamination" issue. I was the one getting the popping in my welds. To answer a few of your questions back to me ... I do have solid line connections (no leaks). Also, it seems as though the popping takes place at either the beginning of the weld or the end. The pop actually occurs after I let off of the heat. I agree that the copper coated welding rod is ok to use as far as that goes. If you have any more ideas after reading this, I would appreciate any more advice. Thanks.
BenComment
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tig contamination
Ben: Couple of things. Sounds like you are having trouble with the peddle operation. Or pre & post purge. It's been my experiance with new welders that they have trouble with the foot pedal. Try this. When you are ready to start push the pedal all the way to your 55 amps then back off to where you're comfortable to weld. When you get to the end come off the pedal faster and still fill your crater. Try not to change your arch length from start to finish. Most newbies tend to lift the tortch at the end and are to far away at the start,causing long arch. Now pre & post purge. I set some programs for a magna tech orbital welding proceedures that had this prob. I set the pre purge for 4 sec. & post purge for 10. This curred the problem with porosity at start&finish. I don't know if you have that option on your mach. One more thing, make sure your tortch angle is correct at start&finish and your gas flow is good. Something that light probably about 8-12 on the meter and about a 5 or 6 cup. StuComment
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HOW'S YOUR PENETRATION LOOKIN? IF YOUR DWELLING TOO LONG AND OVER PENETRATING YOU MIGHT BE GETTING YOUR CONTAMINATION FROM THE UNSHIELDED PUDDLE ON THE BACKSIDE. I HAD THAT PROBLEM THE FIRST TIME I TRIED AN OPEN ROOT TIG PLATE, THEN I MADE A PURGE BLOCK FOR THE BACK OF THE PLATE AND THE PROBLEM WAS SOLVED. IF YOU CAN GET A FEEL FOR IT, THE LAYING THE ROD INTO THE PUDDLE CAN WORK VERY WELL ONCE YOU GET THE HANG OF IT, AND MAKE A NICE CONSISTANT BEAD WITH REAL SMOOTH PENETRATION.
AND YEAH, ITS not THE COPPER COATING.
JUST SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHT...
MATT
Last edited by FIXXXXAH; 04-16-2003, 09:05 PM.Comment
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Good Advice
Matt,
I appreciate you thoughts on my contamination problem. I do see a few pops on the bottom of my welds, and I am sure I am guilty of dwelling on the weld seam too long. Along with Stu's advice, I will try your suggestions as well. I will be welding againg tonight, so hopefully I will have pop-free, smooth runs. Being a novice, I greatly appreciate any advice that can make me improve upon my welding. Thanks.
BenComment
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tig contamination
Ben: If you find yourself with to much penetration(grapes) I'll give you a little hint on what to watch for. After you strike up watch in the puddle for a little white dot that is wiggling. If you see this that means you are penetrating.All you want to do for now is keep the dot going. This will probably increase your speed. Then just practice with this. It's up to the welder then as to what they want thier weld to look like. For a flater weld just weave a little more and go a little faster. Crown, go slower and stay on top of the rod more. StuOriginally posted by FIXXXXAH
HOW'S YOUR PENETRATION LOOKIN? IF YOUR DWELLING TOO LONG AND OVER PENETRATING YOU MIGHT BE GETTING YOUR CONTAMINATION FROM THE UNSHIELDED PUDDLE ON THE BACKSIDE. I HAD THAT PROBLEM THE FIRST TIME I TRIED AN OPEN ROOT TIG PLATE, THEN I MADE A PURGE BLOCK FOR THE BACK OF THE PLATE AND THE PROBLEM WAS SOLVED. IF YOU CAN GET A FEEL FOR IT, THE LAYING THE ROD INTO THE PUDDLE CAN WORK VERY WELL ONCE YOU GET THE HANG OF IT, AND MAKE A NICE CONSISTANT BEAD WITH REAL SMOOTH PENETRATION.
AND YEAH, ITS not THE COPPER COATING.
JUST SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHT...
MATT
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I will also state that the copper coated rods are in no way the cause of problems your having.
1) check gas pressure
2) check gas is flowing at torch well
3) check no drafts in area
4) check tungsten stick out, not to far out maybe 3/8"
5) Is it cold rolled or hot, for hot will start to pop quicker than colled
6) start puddle and bring rod tip into puddle letting a droplet fall and continue down work piece.
7) YOU MUST KEEP A NICE SHARP CLEAN TUNGSTEN IF YOU STICK IT IN PUDDLE IT WILL BE CONTAMINATED ( SHARPEN AGAIN)
Good luck bENJerry Streets
J P Streets Welding LLCComment
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