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welding advice needed

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  • welding advice needed

    Have welded with a stick for a couple years, and am fairly good at it. Picked up a new HH175 last week, and am havng difficulty laying a nice perdy bead. Need some advice. Building a Welding Cart as my first project. Current pic here.

    Here's a close up of the welds I'm getting. Note that the material is mild steel, 1/8" angle. Heat setting is #3, Speed was adjusted from 50-80. Using C25 mixture set to about 17CFH. What am I doing wrong and how do I fix my technique (other than more practice)?

    BTW, I'm going to look into taking a class at my local vocational school. I picked up on stick welding much faster than I am with the mig. I read the HH manual, and just can't seem to get it right.


  • #2
    Check the torch polarity. The hh175 comes set up for fluxcore. The leads need to be swapped for solid wire with gas.


    • #3
      Yup, did that. Went through the manual front to back before unpacking the unit. Followed all the steps as outlined in the manual. Sometimes I welded ok with it...other times it left pits or holes behind. Am I moving too fast? I would think not because the weld would bugger up most of the time like it was feeding too fast. I tried slowing the feed down, reducing the heat too...all kinds of stuff. It's probably my inability to weld that's the problem.....



      • #4
        you might try turnning up the gas to 20cfh,sometimes the gas ports in the diffuser gets plugged with spatter. chumly.


        • #5
          The HH175 comes set up for fluxcore from the said you changed that.....looks like you got plenty of wire that leaves gas. Can you hear the gas coming out of the torch? Do you maintain 1/4 to 1/2" stickout? Is the edge of your plate clean from slag to begin with? It looks like you were trying to weld through slag from an O/A torch cut.

          One mistake stick weldors make is thinking the weld should look like does not. A little weave will help.

          Send more pictures, that will help us diagnose.


          • #6
            I'm guessing your welding clean new 1/8" plate to rusty 1/8" angle. Wire brush rust off in area of weld. Fluxcore can weld through light rust but better to clean. Solid wire doesn't likes dirty metal. But don't think rust is the problem.

            Cluster of pits 1/3 from right end of weld bead is porosity caused most likly from wind blowing away shielding gas and/or low flow rate of shielding gas.

            I think your making a lap weld with your torch angled 45 degrees into joint. Raise angle of torch into joint so more heat is directed into angle and less into edge of plate.

            Are you dragging or pushing the torch?


            • #7
              To answer some questions...

              Material was procured friday night. Edges were fresh and prepped for welding (ground bare), no O/A torch used (chop saw or sawz-all was used). Welding took place in my garage, which was all closed up, thus no wind. I welded in a semi-circle, back and forth. Kinda like the weave approach, but more of an arc. I don't understand the term push or pull, and don't want to mis-lead let me put it this way. When I welded, I pushed the gun away from me (I'm right handed and pushed the torch to the right). I tried to angle the gun as the book describes, but may not have it right. I will get out there later this afternoon and will take more pictures and also practice on some scrap with 20cfh.



              • #8
                How far was the wire sticking out of the contact tip as you made the weld? Should only be 1/4" to 1/2"...the closer the better.


                • #9
                  Page 34 of HH175 manual shows dragging and pushing. Lets say your holding end of rod and drag rod along flat plate so rod is angeled behind your hand at about 10 degrees from vertical. That is called dragging. If you push rod along joint 10 degrees ahead it's called pushing. Pushing gives flatter weld bead with more penitration.

                  Most of the holes and irregular bead I see is just from not properly manipulating the puddle during your weave. A little more practice will improve that. Easier to make welds with little to no weave as less to go wrong.


                  • #10
                    Problem Solved!

                    Take a look at this pic. The two small welds are from yesterday (ignore the tack welded), whereas the long weld is from this afternoon.

                    The problem was that the gun was not fully inserted/seated into the wire feeder, thus letting the C25 mixture mostly escape and not travel down the hose. Once seated, it works you can tell.

                    BTW, the material was the same as mentioned before, 1/8 angle, except no prep'd edge. I should have taken a picture of the bottom side to show the colorization of the metal, illustrating the heat and penetration.

                    Thanks for all the help guys. I'll share a picture of my final project later in the week. Today I picked up the rear wheels and a couple of outlets to mount on the cart as spares and now need some more plate and some SO cordage (that's tomorrow task).



                    • #11
                      Well now you know how it is to weld with good gas and bad gas. I think everyone should try welding without gas on purpose if they haven't by accident. That way they waste less time trying to figure what the problem is. Should be part of the instruction manual along with welding with wrong polarity. Guess that is why they have trouble shooting guides in the manual. All the Miller and Hobart manuals are great easy to read manuals with simple instructions. Really a lot of information there. Lincoln manuals are not as easy.


                      • #12
                        LOL,Roger thats the way i learned years ago with my Lincoln 110v,i orderd the gas kit and installed it and the **** gas selenoid was bad and wouldn't let any gas thru!So right off the bat i knew a "good" weld from a "bad" weld!