6011 vs 6013

[MrFriggsit]

Hello expert welders. I have the opposite problem that the question about newbe 6013 asked about. I recently bought a little tig/stick 180 to supplement our mig unit at work and decided to try some stick welding for the first time. We do a small amount of mig welding so I understand what a decent weld should look like. I basically bought the unit to do aluminum work which it does nicely. But back to the stick question. I seem to have no problem with the 1/8 6013 I ordered, nice enough beads practicing on 1/8 angle, nice flux covering the bead and all(about 100amps). But when I used the 6011 rod (3/32 sent to me by mistake) it looks awful. The so called beads always seem flat(no convex build up) and the flux seems to be blown off the bead. It doesn't seem to make any difference what amperage I use, i can't seem to get a nice bead.

[cope]

First, check your polarity; you need reverse polarity for stick on your machine. 3/32 6011 should run 40-85 amps. Stick welds can and will be flatter than MIG. 100 amps is right on for 1/8 6013, which is an easier rod to weld with for me than the 6011.

[Srubrn]

After getting some info here, I went back yesterday and turned the amperage up to 125 and my beads looked pretty good to me.

Thanks for all the help!!!

[skinner]

rods

you most likely will not ever make prettier welds with the 6011 as you will with the 6013 the 11 is for good fit ups and higher penetration (stonger weld) with a flatter weld bead, the 13 is for poor fit up and is good for rusted and painted material it is considered a fast freez high depositin rod. I like to cap with it over a root pass with the 6011 on some things. I also like to use the 6013 on sheet metal.

[cope]

I just went out and ran a few welds with my DC inverter. It doesn't produce as pretty a weld as my AC transformer machine using 6011. That may be part of the trouble.

[MrFriggsit]

thanks for the replies guys, I am going to keep practicing for now. I don't seem to be having a penatration problem with the 6011 that's for sure. But I seem to have to turn the amps down pretty far to get any results that I like even a little. With the machine set at 40 amps or so I still get a lot of splatter and a little flat ugly bead. Should I see a covering of slag over the 6011 bead like the 6013? I thought the 6011 rod was supposed to be the easiest rod to begin stick welding with, good for even rusted stuff but maybe I was wrong.

[skinner]

6011

6011 will not leave as good of a slag coverage as the 6013 it is recomended for beginers because of its good penatration and versitle use, its not a hard rod to run it is just not going to make as pretty a weld.

[cope]

Easiest rod for a beginner would be the 7014. Next would be the 6013. 6011 is deep penetration all position rod; best for root pass. Doesn't have to be pretty becaues its often covered by several passes of 6013 or some other rod.

[Arc Burn]

7014(Idiot rod)

When i first began welding thats how it was explained to me!Idiot rod!Any idiot could use it,don't be offended after all i WAS the idiot at the time ,as far as 6011 i never use it,can't stand it.

[R. Nelson]

Re: 6011 vs 6013

Originally posted by MrFriggsit
Hello expert welders. I have the opposite problem that the question about newbe 6013 asked about. I recently bought a little tig/stick 180 to supplement our mig unit at work and decided to try some stick welding for the first time. We do a small amount of mig welding so I understand what a decent weld should look like. I basically bought the unit to do aluminum work which it does nicely. But back to the stick question. I seem to have no problem with the 1/8 6013 I ordered, nice enough beads practicing on 1/8 angle, nice flux covering the bead and all(about 100amps). But when I used the 6011 rod (3/32 sent to me by mistake) it looks awful. The so called beads always seem flat(no convex build up) and the flux seems to be blown off the bead. It doesn't seem to make any difference what amperage I use, i can't seem to get a nice bead.

6011 is not pretty and has a lot of spatter, has a very forceful arc, like SKINNER say's, they are good for deep penetration...run at DCEP.

[Snidley]

6011 won't give you a pretty weld. But they are great deep penetrating rod, that are ideal for root runs, welding dirty/painted/greasy steel which can't be cleaned well. Also used to weld galvanized steel. Light slag covering. DCEP.

6013's are a med. to shallow rod that is pretty much ideal for most repair and general all around use. Nicer bead with a med to heavy slag covering. Metal must be cleaned. AC, DCEN or DCEP.

[BillC]

I am still very new to welding, but I thought that 6010 was for DCEP and 6011 was for AC.

Why would someone want 6011 over 6010 if they both run on DCEP?

Thanks!

[Dan]

Originally posted by BillC
I am still very new to welding, but I thought that 6010 was for DCEP and 6011 was for AC.

Why would someone want 6011 over 6010 if they both run on DCEP?

Thanks!

Bill

6011 is designed for AC, but it will also run on DC. Where as 6010 is a DC only rod.

[dseman]

Billc

E6011 for sheetmetal butt and edge welds. Running DCEN, it is preferred to E6010 (says lincoln) due to its finer spray. They recommend holding an arc of 3/16" or more, move fast while maintaining good fusion, position the work 45deg. downhill, and use currents in the middle of the range.
-dseman