Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

floor pans

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • floor pans

    im replacing my floor pans in my 88' dodge daytona turbo with 22ga weldable sheet metal and im kinda new to welding but im using an HH140 with C25 gas and .024(should i be using .030?) wire and id like to know what would be easyer and stronger for me? butt welding the new metal to the car floor or a lap weld and what would be the best settings to use

  • #2
    Lap joint.

    Comment


    • #3
      Lap joint, plus you can pre-position that joint with some sheet metal screws (then remove after) or pop rivets to get it just right. You could punch holes sround the perimeter and do plug welds, also. Knock as much of that rust back (Flap Discs on angle grinder and wire wheel) as you can, and I'm always concerned about new rust in the overlapped seam, so seal the **** out of it, top and bottom, when you are finished. I've put angle iron across the opening to stiffen up the new panel, also. Your most professional patch will be the butt joint, but we're talking lots of blow-through until you develop a "touch". The alignment clamps you can get at Harbor Freight work pretty good for holding the patch in while maintaining a 1/16" gap. I personally like to use a couple of their magnets, spot, move 'em , align, spot again, etc.
      At the Lake


      Miller Stick
      Victor Torch
      HH 180
      Cutmaster 38 Plasma Cutter
      Large Collection of Chinese Tools (unknown dynasties)

      Comment


      • #4
        .024 is the wire you want to use. It'll be better with the real thin stuff.
        Don


        Go Spurs Go!!!!!!

        Comment


        • #5
          ok ill stick with .024 and maybe a lap joint will be better for me but ive heard that when dong a lap joint moisture can become stuck in between the joint and rust out the floor again. if i seal up up well with like POR15 then tar would that pervent it??

          Comment


          • #6
            I would suggest butting the panels rather than lapping. Rust will form between the two pieces as you were told already. POR15 is a great product but you may not get full coverage between the lapped joint and still ruin your work.

            Also, did you use pre-formed pans? You may be able to find factory pans at Raybucks or a similar body panel supplier.

            Run short 1/4" beads, skipping from one side of the panel to the other. Cool the welds with wet rag.

            Then again, if this is just a repair to keep you tennis shoes off the pavement, lap joints would be fine. And if this the case, you can glue the panels in and not worry about welding at all...wait, this is welding forum
            Pro Mig 175
            Stickmate AC/DC
            HF 4x6 Bandsaw

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by shawny2087
              ok ill stick with .024 and maybe a lap joint will be better for me but ive heard that when dong a lap joint moisture can become stuck in between the joint and rust out the floor again. if i seal up up well with like POR15 then tar would that pervent it??
              That is a good point, if a butt joint will give you sufficient strength perhaps spend some time with them, they should be doable as well.

              Comment


              • #8
                I make the laps real small, most of it is asorbed during welding leaving very little lap on the back for water to collect in, then spray on undercoat. A 1/8 lap makes it so much easier to weld.
                http://www.facebook.com/cary.urka.urkafarms

                Comment


                • #9
                  Work the seam over with a heat gun (hair dryer if you don't have one) real well then POR 15 on each side. It'll be sealed for a long. long time. If you wanna be real careful, after you've dried it out, let it cool, then spray (heavy) aerosol rust converter into the seam all around., Let dry, then POR 15. I use the converter Wal Mart sells in the auto department (Kleen Strip makes it). I like it better than Extend.
                  At the Lake


                  Miller Stick
                  Victor Torch
                  HH 180
                  Cutmaster 38 Plasma Cutter
                  Large Collection of Chinese Tools (unknown dynasties)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    On these lap joints, are we welding only on the top, leaving an open lap underneath or are we welding the bottom too?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 243
                      I would suggest butting the panels rather than lapping. Rust will form between the two pieces as you were told already. POR15 is a great product but you may not get full coverage between the lapped joint and still ruin your work.

                      Also, did you use pre-formed pans? You may be able to find factory pans at Raybucks or a similar body panel supplier.

                      Run short 1/4" beads, skipping from one side of the panel to the other. Cool the welds with wet rag.

                      Then again, if this is just a repair to keep you tennis shoes off the pavement, lap joints would be fine. And if this the case, you can glue the panels in and not worry about welding at all...wait, this is welding forum
                      not there big holes like for ex. one is about 18"L X 4-5"W and im using 22ga weldable coldrolled sheet metal i could not find pre fromed pans any where

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        22 gauge is too light for floor pans (or body work for that matter). I'd go no thinner than 18 gauge for floors.
                        At the Lake


                        Miller Stick
                        Victor Torch
                        HH 180
                        Cutmaster 38 Plasma Cutter
                        Large Collection of Chinese Tools (unknown dynasties)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Shawny - don't know how big a hole you're covering. This is what works for me. I have switched to 16 ga.( or heavier ) for floor work. Small holes - up to 12" or so cut patch with a healthy overlap (1' - 1 1/2"). After forming patch,grind foor clean, then coat bottom of ENTIRE patch with WATERPROOF fiberglass filler. Glue the patch in place, put a brick or two on it to hold it, then scrape all excess filler off all around edge of patch and floor with a gasket scraper before it sets ( wipe it with a little laquer thinner on rag to really clean it ). When your patches are in (set up and dried), tack all around, then weld edges - skipping around with 1/2" or so welds 'til it's done. It's surprising how little filler is lost by welding heat ( it will catch on fire while you weld occasionally - just blow it out! - don't inhale this crap - and keep moving heat to different spots) and this is the secret of having the strength of the lap without worrying about rust between layers. When you're done, clean it up and check lap joints from underneath. If any gaps have formed while welding, fill them from bottom with the WATERPROOF filler. When you're done, wipe down all edges and por 15 the inside and out side. Por 15 may not permanantly adhere to filler underneath, but it still won't rust, and you can respray it with spray can stuff if it really bothers you.
                          On larger patches, you may need some thicker bracing (unless you can roll some beads into them). The flatter they are the weaker they will be, thus the need for bracing with some strap iron.
                          These larger patches are done in the same manner, but only use the WATERPROOF filler on the edges. The por 15 will be fine on the bottom and looks better on these larger panels.
                          Sounds terrible, and it's a pain, but after 40 years of fighting winter salt damage, it's the only thing i've found that really holds up! It's not pretty, it's not for show cars, and if you live in Arizona or similar climate it's overkill. But for pitbull miserable winter salt slop areas it's the real deal. HAVE FUN!!!
                          Last edited by yeruncle; 12-30-2004, 04:30 AM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            well the floor is 22ga it looks like, but ill go out and get a 24"X48" sheet of 16ga thats no problem. i think ill try that fiberglass thing. i build fiberglass moldings for mobil audio systems so i know how to work with that pretty well. also will a tin snips be able to cut through the 16ga sheet metal because i dont have a shears or nibblers or really anything else to cut it.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by shawny2087
                              also will a tin snips be able to cut through the 16ga sheet metal because i dont have a shears or nibblers or really anything else to cut it.
                              You're not going to have much luck cutting 16 ga with tin snips. And I think it's way overkill for the application - just as a visual reference, 16 ga is roughly the same thickness as a quarter.
                              Trailblazer 302 * Millermatic 212 * Syncrowave 180SD * X-Treme 12VS Feeder * Spoolmate 3035
                              Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52 Plasma * Lincoln 175 MIG

                              Victor Superrange II * Victor Journeyman

                              Hobart HH 125EZ


                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X