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Welding 1" steel

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  • Welding 1" steel

    I'll be building a wood splitter soon, and will need to weld a 1" thick mild steel wedge to the 7/16" thick flange on a mild steel 831 beam. I've never welded metal that heavy before. I have a Miller 180SD, and have been planning to use that in stick mode, DC, with 1/8" 6011 rod (cause I have a bunch of that rod on hand). I also have an old Sears 295amp AC buzzbox that I can use, if the 180SD doesn't have enough power.

    I'm looking for suggestions on how to prep for this weld. There is going to be lots of force on this when it's done, so I want it to stay stuck! I'm planning on grinding the bottom of the wedge on both sides, where it sits on the beam flange (leaving about 1/4" in the middle), so I can get to the root. Tack, then weld on one side, weld the other side, wait for things to cool down, and repeat. Might need to repeat twice. Does that sound OK? What angle should I grind the bottom to?

    What amperage do you recommend? Will the rod I have on hand work? Any special techniques I should know about for welding steel this heavy? Anything I need to be on the look out for?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    Corm
    Corm

    Miller 180SD, Millermatic 251, Lincoln SP125+, Hypotherm 350

  • #2
    I built a splitter last year. I used a MIG on mine with three passes. Your stick welder will probably be even better than the mig was. Just make sure you do multiple passes. My splitter is strong enough that it will flex the beam (14.5 HP, 22 GPM pump, 5X24" cylinder) and I haven't had any problems with the weld.

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    • #3
      It was a Lincoln PowerMig 255. I used .035" wire and C25 gas. I made three passes and it seemed to get really good penetration. I do not recall the wire speed and voltage, but it was turned up pretty high. I was welding 1" material.

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      • #4
        welding 1" Steel

        I would try welding it with two 6010 root passes and then a couple 7018 or 7024 cover passes

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        • #5
          I would think the 175 would work turned up to max with several passes.

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          • #6
            jimic - Thanks for the input. I tried it this weekend and it worked real well! . Lot's of work left, but made a lot of progress. I'm beginning to understand why these things are so expensive! Thanks again. Corm
            Corm

            Miller 180SD, Millermatic 251, Lincoln SP125+, Hypotherm 350

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            • #7
              HI CORM...........I MADE A WOOD SPLITTER ONCE.....USEING A 4 CYLINDER WISCONSIN...........WHAT WAS IT TIM THE TOOL MAN ALWAYS SAID AHHHHHH MORE POWER........... I USED WELDING RODS AND STILL MANAGED TO BREAK THE WEDGE OFF OF THE I-BEAM WHILE SPLITTING SOME ELM.........REWELDED, REBRACED, THE CORRECT WAY NEVER HAD A PROBLEM AFTER THAT.........JUST REMEMBER A TWO FOLD FORCE PROBLEM ON THE WEDGE........ RAM FORCE AND THE FORCE OF THE WOOD SLIDEING DOWN THE EVER THICKENING WEDGE.......................BE SAFE NOW AND KEEP YOUR FINGER OUT OF THE SPLITTING WOOD.................. ...ROCK
              [email protected]

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