Newbie 6013 question...

[mikeb]

6013

6013 has an iron powder coating; it deposits more than other rods.

[manofsteel]

Regarding the 6013 rod...Ed is correct. Drag the rod along the metal lightly...the flux coating will keep the arc. Also, a good rule of thumb on stick welding is generally a bead should be a 3 to 1 ratio if your doing a straight stringer bead. Example if it is 1/8" rod the bead should be 3/8 of an inch wide. If you do a weave type...it can be up to 6 times the rod width. Practice running just flat stringer beads lightly dragging the rod and they will look great. You will also notice how quick the rod will be consumed. Keep pouring it to it.

Walt

[R. Nelson]

Re: Newbie 6013 question...

Originally posted by Srubrn
I was trying to run a bead in some angle with a 6013 rod with AC box set at 100amps. When I got thru the bead looked great with the flux on it, when I chipped it off the weld had ditch down thru it full of flux. The cut away view looked like a M. Why is this? I bought the 6013 rods because I thought the bead would look better than the 6011 I was playing with.

What book could anyone recommend to show me the proper technique of running beads? Stick and MIG

Ed is correct, when you weld inside of angle, crank your voltage up, run that girl hot and keep your arc close.

[Royal Fe]

Todd, I too have had the same problem with 6013 rods and I have an AC machine also. I have better results with 6011 but use the 13's with thin metals. I use 105 with 1/8 rods and 90 with 3/32. The pattern of the weave I have found is a big factor with what the weld looks like, probably because of what Ed said. I use a drag arc or "C" pattern RT to LT...LT to RT, I don't know if this is an ideal pattern or not but Rocky D can steer us the right way with that. I still get flux "holes" from time to time but thats because I have no training and always had trouble drawing consistant spiral circles in school. Everything I weld is rusty because it comes from the scrap yard, that may have something to do with it but thats what grinders and wire brushes are for.

[dseman]

Well, if you want to learn smaw, gmaw, and fcaw, and be proficient at them then the best thing is to take some classes at your local community college. If you want to go it alone, then here are a few books that I have and think are pretty good:

1.)Arc Welding Instructions for the Beginner
-truly a beginner smaw text covering all the general techniques and various joints/positions.

After you've mastered those:
2.)New Lessons in Arc Welding
-more indepth smaw, covers basic gmaw/fcaw/tig with all the reg. metals

3.)Stick Electrode Welding Guide
-Pocket size text of tables/electrode choice/joints. Sizes and amperages are
geared to production work--running bigger and hotter than most hobby work though.

4.)Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding
-the Bible.

5.)Metals and How To Weld Them
-Lots of good metallurgical info.

All found at the lincoln site, and the good news is that they are quality bound and cheap!
1.) $4
2.) $5
3.) $2
4.) $15
5.) $5

Lincoln believes so much in education that they sell their books at cost! Which nowadays is a pretty good deal.

And of course, there is this forum--but if you are REALLY interested in welding, you'll really enjoy these books.

Repeat: what diameter rod? A 3/32 will give you the results you describe. 1/8 would not. IMHO

[cope]

technique

1/8' angle should have welded fine at 100 amps. Maybe poor ground/bad rod.

The Miller calculator shows basic information on the back of the calculator. I have a good Oxy-Acetylene book, but I haven't been too impressed with many of the books available for stick. I have heard that Miller's books are top quality, as well as those from Lincoln but I haven't seen them.

[Srubrn]

Don't remember about the color of the rod. I was using a piece of 1 1/2"x1 /12" 1/8 angle.

Also what about good book for showing techniques?

Todd, need to know what thickness of base metal, and diameter of rod. Was the rod red when you finished running it?

[cope]

6013 rod

Todd, 80-130 is the recommended range for 1/8" 6013 and 100 amps should be just about right. That said, every welder (and weldor) is different though, so you may have to play around with the settings.

[Srubrn]

Thanks,

I will turn it up to about 130 and see what happens. I did notice that the rod was very quiet and barely burned. Maybe that is the characteristic of the 6013.

[Ed Heimbach]

Todd, It sounds as though you were trying to run the '13 using the same technique as your '11's
6013 is a "drag" type rod, the core burns back into the flux to a certain distance(maybe an eighth inch), this is all the distance that is needed.
If you hold an arc like you do with 6011, the weld pool will be too cool, and will freeze before the slag will float to the surface, hence the slag inclusions.
If you are already draging the rods, turn the current up, see if this will help.

[Srubrn]

The piece was a new piece of angle. The box is old as heck.

[chub380]

Was the metal clean,no rust paint ect. make sure you machine is set up according to the diameter electodes you are using. It should tell you one the box they came in. If you dont have the box go to a place where Miller machines are sold and get a handy stick calculator usually free or a dollar. Chub380

[Srubrn]

I was trying to run a bead in some angle with a 6013 rod with AC box set at 100amps. When I got thru the bead looked great with the flux on it, when I chipped it off the weld had ditch down thru it full of flux. The cut away view looked like a M. Why is this? I bought the 6013 rods because I thought the bead would look better than the 6011 I was playing with.

What book could anyone recommend to show me the proper technique of running beads? Stick and MIG