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Handler 140 Input Power?

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  • Handler 140 Input Power?

    I understand that the Hobart Handler 140 input power is to be 115V AC on a 20amp breaker; however, I have read several posts recommend a 30amp individual breaker. Please keep in mind that I am not an electrician, and I don't have much electrical experience other than replacing existing wiring, outlets, switches, etc..

    Our central air conditioning unit went out last summer, and I decided not to replace it. This got me thinking that I could use that particular circuit and breaker for my welder, and for future welding units.

    The line in question is a 10-2 W/G that comes off my 200amp service through a 30amp circuit breaker. Nothing else is on this line; however, when I tested this line today with my multi-meter, it had 250V going through it. Which I'm assuming would be too much for the Handler 140?

    Is there anyway that I can use this line to power my 140, or should I just run a new single 115V line with a 30amp circuit breaker?

    Thanks for reading.

  • #2
    You can possibly split the breaker if it has external link that keeps them operating as one .... BUT keep in mind most 240V circuits are two hot legs (L1 & L2) with no neural,,, But will have safety ground.... The exception may electric drier circuits that have 120Volt fan/drum motors the the will have a neutral, but very rare and its a 4 wire circuit...

    A neutral and a ground are bonded together at main panel and also to a driven ground rod, BUT electrically they serve two different functions and are two different circuit after they leave main panel, and neither can be substituted for the other... A ground conductor will always be safety ground, and neutral will always be a neutral conductor...

    A 120 circuit will have one hot leg one neutral and a safety ground....

    Best to put in proper 120 Volt circuit and yes to get full out of your HH140 it will draw something like 24 amps so a 20 amp circuit will not allow top setting(s) in welder...

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    Dale M.
    Senior Member
    Last edited by Dale M.; 12-04-2021, 10:34 PM.
    "Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson..


    • #3
      Put in a new 12 wire and a 20A breaker. We can talk about modification IF its needed. I use the word if here because this is the source of a lot of speculation, they are designed to run from 20 and most do but in special circumstances the machine is designed to tolerate a heavier breaker.
      While it can run 030 these are more 023 machines, I recently used one here and close to the panel so it really gets the juice and it never tripped up from 023. I did some cord tests with one a while back, it tolerate overcurrent quite well, seems I could squeak about 23 or 23 in to it as best I recall. I read the manuals and the net speculation because the first thing usually comes up is needing a number 10 cord to strike an arc which isnt true and in some cases doesnt help with trips, can even add a little to it.
      Senior Member
      Last edited by Sberry; 12-05-2021, 10:01 AM.


      • #4
        wide open, 50 ft 12 around 4v drop, operator cant tell the difference from being next to the panel. Will run the machine well to 100 ft. going to number 14 cord, 8 v drop @ 50 ft and operator has to adjust the machine a fuzz, still above 115 in and operated just fine.


        • #5
          An electrician is worth his knowledge and experience. He can easily convert your existing #10 cable from 240V to 120V with just a wiring and breaker change in the panel and changing to a suitable receptacle at the other end. But that's assuming your air conditioner cable went to a place that's convenient for the welder to be.

          One day of serious welding can pay for the cost of running a new power cable from the panel to the welder, either monetarily or in convenience.

          But this is if you are having issues with the current wiring. Yes, best performance can be obtained when the machine has its own power circuit, but you might already be on a circuit that is providing sufficient power for what you're doing.
          Senior Member
          Last edited by MAC702; 12-05-2021, 11:57 PM.


          • #6
            I understand that the Hobart Handler 140 input power is to be 115V AC on a 20amp breaker; however, I have read several posts recommend a 30amp individual breaker
            This is a bit what I am getting at,,,, nothing wrong with some reading and some "research" but it gets skewed untill there is some real world added. When I started one of my mentors was a nut and constantly obsessed with a little v frop which in hindsight didnt mean squat and even less today with hi standing v at service and so much was designed and rated wayyyyyy back when v was 220.
            Look at SOME of the stick machines, allow the same input wire at 208 as 240, huge difference in current. Even a big leap from 220 to 240 and lots of places service is really strong and hot. I was really impressed on one we did a test and a long dasiey chain to, overloaded it at the weatherhead and lost 1 volt. If I would have asked on the net and included all the factors it wouldnt have even worked and we would have had to calculate all losses from the tranny etc and its totally irrelevant at this level in most places. I have seen some old 60A fuses overloaded but they really added the stuff and usually a new microwave pushed them over the edge. Modern,,, never,,, I gotta add a disclaimer of course as some where some place it has happened but its pretty rare. Same for old wire on old service where the first circuit in the place was extended all over the place and runs half the house. Very rare for anything relatively modern especially since the advent of new codes although garages have fallen behind a little, we upgrade.
            I asked at a forensics session if they ever see fires from primary equipment wiring, welders and comps.. They said never, lots mainly due to old kitchen circuits, extended circuits with the 30 fuse screwed in or some trick to the fuse box and considering how much that was done and the amount of truly faulty wire in the world its statistically rare. We have good codes but lots of the worlds power passes thru crap wire every day, some even overloaded or temporarily overloaded so to speak.


            • #7
              I agree with Mac on the conversion, its something he or I might do, same for Dale. There are a lot of factors, might even consider leaving it as 240 for a new machine. The OP in this case was not opposed to running a new cable. Eliminates a little confusion for the handyman type with NG and possible wire recolor etc. The upside of a conversion is its a heavy wire and no splices or shared outlets etc.

              Its slightly different with us as its so second nature or maybe even first to provide the service to any appliance and consider it from new. I have 5 machines plugged in to welding area, each one has a circuit and if I was adding a new one tomorrow would nt really occur to me to share an outlet with one. Another recept would be coming home with me at the same time.
              During my last remod actually remover 2 outlets, actually just didnt bother reinstalling them. I had to use an extra cord once for about 20 minutes and had to resist putting that outlet in just in case,,, ha


              • #8
                I have 6400 ft of shop, maybe 6 welding circuits within 10 ft of the panel, 2 others, 1 I do use some and one a convenience I have used put it that way and really could manage without it. If it wasnt already there probably wouldnt put it in. But I havnt tripped up any breaker on thermal overload in decades, cant even recall it, never overheat a cord.
                Only a couple places in the shop even have multiple recepts or duplex on the same circuit. The system is so simple to add, easier than simple extension most of the time that any applied load is one at a time, no one has to even consider any of this, could serve the place if a guy could actually turn it all on at once.
                Senior Member
                Last edited by Sberry; 12-05-2021, 10:59 AM.


                • #9

                  Thank you for your quick responses and for your guidance. I do apologize for the delayed response; however, here's what I decided to do based on everyone's input:

                  I ran a new 12/2 W/G wire to a 30A 120V breaker. This welder will be the only device on this circuit, and so far I've had zero issues.

                  I'm going to save the 10-2 W/G with 200amp service for when I'm ready to upgrade to a bigger welder.

                  Thank you.