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Hobart gb-318

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  • #46
    Picked up some 20' 4awg battery jumpers for my leads. Looking for a muffler. No welding today its raining everything is soaked.

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    • #47
      Looks like common pump and now you can keep coolant in it I'm sure. 4AWG for leads will carry 1/8" electrode alright but they will get warm to the touch. With that machine and it's capability, I'd go with 1AWG wire which is still a bit light but would work fine.
      Thanks for reading/listening.

      Antique Hobart Engine Drive Lover X5

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      • #48
        Im welding like a champ!! Only thing is I have to run without rad cap cause it runs cooler, use a broom stick to throttle down. Other than that I'm on cloud nine.

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        • #49
          The word on these motors is they dont like pressure in the cooling system so I'm going to try to keep it that way. Reading about guys blowing head gaskets. Although this is the industrial version prob has some upgrades internally.

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          • #50
            Nice to hear you have it running/operating. Good feeling I'm sure.

            Mine has a zero pressure cap also. Think I ordered six of them from a single vendor on ebay for about $8.00 each.
            Thanks for reading/listening.

            Antique Hobart Engine Drive Lover X5

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            • #51
              Originally posted by Auto Affair View Post
              Nice to hear you have it running/operating. Good feeling I'm sure.

              Mine has a zero pressure cap also. Think I ordered six of them from a single vendor on ebay for about $8.00 each.
              Remember the vendors ID? Been using a length of radiator hose around the neck and Pepsi can for a radiator cap for about 40 years now.

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              • #52
                Yes I do. www.reliableaftermarketparts.com

                I caught the caps on sale as they fit both the radiator and fuel tanks for all my engine drives. Look for them on ebay as it's cheaper to purchase there than their website believe it or not. I even called them direct and they told me to purchase via ebay.
                Thanks for reading/listening.

                Antique Hobart Engine Drive Lover X5

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                • #53
                  Thanks for the info.

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                  • #54
                    If you need measurements of the caps I ordered let me know.
                    Thanks for reading/listening.

                    Antique Hobart Engine Drive Lover X5

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                    • #55
                      Ok. I will do that. Did you ever get the line boring operation going?

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by lars66 View Post
                        Ok. I will do that. Did you ever get the line boring operation going?
                        Most of it and have done a couple of jobs. Still have a ways to go yet but only purchase new when absolutely necessary. Going to retire early next month from the full time employer to strike out on the different path as a hobby.

                        This page will give you options also. http://www.fillernecksupply.com/3-or...er-necks-caps/ I used their filler neck to replace the one on my G-258 as it was coupled with a rubber hose and corroded badly. The cap shown will work also but has a small vent hole in the top. The Hobarts used the same size radiator and fuel tank caps on the older machines.
                        Last edited by Auto Affair; 01-15-2018, 09:01 AM.
                        Thanks for reading/listening.

                        Antique Hobart Engine Drive Lover X5

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                        • #57
                          Fab'd the rad mount today. Left the fuel pet**** open last use, now have fuel pissing out the fuel pump top hole. I suspect some type of blockage in the fuel pump body as I have not opened and inspectedit. Maybe it was plugged, maybe I should just plug it...? More than likely will remove and disassemble, have me a look see. Can't find similar replacements for this motor so buying is not an option. It runs great just pisses raw fuel on hot exhaust pipes..... The mount is some channels I welded with 2 uprights, painted silver, mounted with existing 1/2" hardware to frame. I wonder if I can weld with the rig on the rig but I need to research that.

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                          • #58
                            Good ole Uni-Strut to the rescue again!! Works good, lasts a long time..... I would get that "kink" out of the lower radiator hose even if it means running the hos differently. It is the suction side of the system and you really don't want any restriction there. I see you have a different radiator fill position rather than original. Is that going to make it more difficult to observe and keep a check on coolant level? It's just habit for me but I check all fluids prior to starting the engine for the day.

                            Don't spend a lot of time on the fuel pump as they are not expensive to purchase: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fuel+pump,6256 You can also not run the fuel pump and plumb straight to the carburetor but will need to keep the fuel tank at least 1/2 full as the fuel level of of the tank must be higher than the carburetor inlet.

                            You can weld in the machine chassis with itself but I would keep the work clamp as close to your welding point as possible. Not near as critical on a commutator based DC only machine as a rectified machine, but still good practice.

                            Thanks for keeping us in the loop. Hopefully we've had a little bit of positive input to help you along with.
                            Thanks for reading/listening.

                            Antique Hobart Engine Drive Lover X5

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                            • #59
                              I did order the new modern pump off ebay. Took the ole' girl out for $45 worth of gas in her belly. Have bunch of stuff to weld but my skid steer needed her vh4d pulled for flywheel repair, has vanes on the flywheel to chase air around the air cooled cylinders. On an addt'l note I did finally get my lathe in the shed, pictures attached.
                              Attached Files

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                              • #60
                                Originally posted by Njclimber View Post
                                I did order the new modern pump off ebay. Took the ole' girl out for $45 worth of gas in her belly. Have bunch of stuff to weld but my skid steer needed her vh4d pulled for flywheel repair, has vanes on the flywheel to chase air around the air cooled cylinders. On an addt'l note I did finally get my lathe in the shed, pictures attached.
                                Don't be surprised if that pump has a short life with alcohol gasoline. Seen a bunch of them not last long if it's the one style from ebay I'm thinking of.

                                Seen a lot of VH4D, and V465D series Wisconsin engines with busted cooling vanes on the flywheels for some reason over the years. No real reason to attribute to but some folks seem to think they are for rolling the engine over with using a screwdriver between the vanes.....

                                Small lathes like that can certainly be handy. Quick change makes is pretty easy to use and belt drive very simple to maintain. I remember days gone by where I used a come a long to swing engines and such with the garage rafters, or a good tree branch to take the weight.....

                                Thanks for reading/listening.

                                Antique Hobart Engine Drive Lover X5

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