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I need help getting my machine on, a manual is also needed. The main relay has 4 main wires. Can someone explain the connections for 2 115volt ac connections for me. The relay is not wanting to stay on? tyvm [email protected]
If your machine is truly a 115 vac machine then your relay will have two connections. Your power cord should have three wires, black, white and green. Green is ground and should hook to your cabinet somewhere, and the black and white lines will go to your relay, it wont matter which goes where, its AC. If your machine is 230 vac, then it will be the same, except that there will be a phenolic (isolated or insulated) board that has jumpers or mini bus bars on it. You need to know what current your machine requires and what you have to hook to it. Does the nomenclature bracket which identifies your machine, ser.# model.# etc., have on it a line like this: 115/230 Volts? If it does then you can power it both ways, but you will have to make sure that the machine is set up to accept the power you give it.
the machine says 230/460, and the 4 wires coming from the relay are disconnected: 2 are shorted. I am guessing these are hooked together with 460 volts and seperated for 230. I want to check diodes and scr's . I sure could use a manual ty jeff any suggestions?
The primary windings in your control transformer are made to be run in series for 460 or parallel if 240. you will split your two line inputs for the input connectors on your relay, line 1 will have the two left connectors, and line 2 will have the two right ones. Just below where the relay is you will see a junction strip. The first 4 are numbered 1/L1, 3, 2, and then 4/L2. There should be 2short loop connectors on the top connections between 1/3 and 2/4 if this was wired 240, or there will be one cnnector between 3/2, if it was 460. There is a post in the TIG section titled: Small Current Only with Cyber TIG 300, by Kirk Wallace. He has pictures of his Cybertig 300 and it shows this area I'm talking about. You will notice a phenolic board with 4 bolts in the center of it with 2 copper strips running vertically, this has to be this way for 240, or both strips together, horizontally between the two bottom bolts for 460. I got a schematic from my LWS guy, I can fax them to you, but what I have told you is really straight forward. Nothing in the welder will work until you get this part right, because all the power comes from the control transformer, even the 115Vac comes from that transformer, so you really wont be able to troubleshoot much until you get this part right. It supplies all the current that makes the whole thing operate.
I worked on it a little today, I think I am getting the 4 main wires right. The main relay will not stay on. I checked the control transformer and it is fine. the relay works fine when jumped with the 2 legs of 110. I have read there is a copper ring to replace. How do you do this? Is there a different way to wire this circut for 230V? I looked at the relay and didn't see a good way to take it apart. I sure wish I had a manual.
If your machine is bussed for 460V and you are putting 230V through it, then instead of having 115V trying to make the relay stay on, you have got 57.5V going to the relay. You need to look at how the buss bars on the phenolic board are configured as well as how many jumpers you have to which terminals on the junction block just below the relay. If there is one jumper, then your welder was used with 460V power previously. Please look to see if there is 1 jumper looped between terminals 3 & 2. If there is only one, then it was 460V and you need to jumper between leads 1/3 & 2/4 AND, the two buss bars will be running up on both sides of the bolts on the phenolic sheet, Then you WILL have 115Vac to your relay and it will stay on.
OK! Now we know what to do. You need to make another jumper wire just like the one that is already there, it HAS to be the same gauge or heavier or it will burn out. You will move the jumper that was between 3/2 and put it between 1/3, and the new one you are going to make will go between 2/4. Next, just above the terminal strip is a phenolic, or fiber insulating, board, there are 4 bolts in the middle of it. If it was wired for 460, the two bottom bolts will have two small buss bars, their size is approximately 5/8" by 2 1/2" long. These buss bars need to be split and run, one each, straight up from each of the bottom bolts, to the bolt right above them. This is what splits the two primary windings to each have 240 run through them. Because your unit was wired for 460V, when you put 240 power to it, the 115V secondary output coil was actually only 57 V, and there would be no way for it to create a strong enough electromagnetic field to pull and hold the relay down.
I know there is a way to do pictures in this forum, but I don't know how. Hey! I just found it. Right below where you make your post replies, it says Additional Options, the second one says "Attach Files," just like in an email, so you can do it that way. Click on manage attachments and there will be a window, the top box says BROWSE, so you can load from your computer. I sent a pic of one of my grandkids, let me know if you get it in this post, then we'll know it works!
Yes I got 57 volts, I got a manual from Keith today. I am almost off and running. I need to make another buss bar to connect the middle two studs vertically. I'll do that tommorrow evening. I found diode on the other side of the middle panel. where are the scr's? I have some extra stuff that might work with this welder from an old dc spindle motor controller.
ty crash, and keith for the manual. I will get back soon.
proxy server error trying to upload. i am dialup
ty again jeff
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