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  • Synchrowave 250

    I have an opportunity to pick up an old transformer type Syncrowave 250 for a reasonable price. The guy guarantees me it works. I am correct in assuming these were good machines and no problematic? He doesn't have the foot controller for it. Are those hard to come by on the used market?

  • #2
    I'm guessing a good working SW-250 is worth about $1200.-$1500.

    Maybe a little more with a cooler.

    Research on Craigslist and Ebay closed auctions.

    Good reliable machine but draws a lot of juice - 70A breaker ?

    New Foot pedals here - $178.00

    http://www.ssccontrols.com/homepage-...ngcontrols.htm

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    • #3
      Good to see that a new foot pedal controller is still available. Thanks for the link. This machine should have way more capacity than I'd ever use in terms of amperage output. Its going to be a heavy son of a gun to load onto the trailer but should be worth the $500 I'm getting it for. I guess the market is moving towards more energy efficient, lighter, inverter technology. Can't wait to strike up an arc with it.

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      • #4
        Tim,

        The Syncrowave 250 is one of the best tig welders ever produced. Nearly bulletproof. As mentioned, they do require a lot of power (I'd recommend a 100A breaker. At max output they can pull up to about 96A).

        I recently upgraded a Sync 250 that I purchased new in '96. Unit never gave me a bit of trouble. Went with a newer Sync 250 DX Tigrunner with the digital displays, built in cooler, etc. Added the pulser and am very impressed.

        Miller service is second to none. Great people to deal with.

        Good luck on your new welder. Let me know if you have any questions. Have a "little" time on the older Syncs.
        SundownIII

        Syncrowave 250DX, Tigrunner
        Dynasty 200 DX w/CM 3
        MM 251 w/30 A SG
        HH 187 Mig
        XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Pulser
        Dialarc 250 w/HF 15-1
        Hypertherm PM 1250 Plasma
        Victor, Harris, and Smith O/A
        PC Dry Cut Saw and (just added) Wilton (7x12) BS
        Mil Mod 6370-21 Metal Cut Saw
        More grinders than hands (Makita & Dewalt)
        Grizzly 6"x48" Belt Sander
        Access to full fab shop w/CNC Plasma & Waterjet
        Gas mixers (Smith(2) and Thermco)
        Miller BWE and BWE Dig

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        • #5
          Yup, at 500 or so I would go for it as long as you have power to run it.
          http://www.facebook.com/cary.urka.urkafarms

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          • #6
            Picked it up today. It will be a few days before I get a chance to wire it up. The points on the hf spark gap look corroded and dusty. I guess they sit next to the floor, so they probably pick up a lot of dust and moisture. The guy also had a Lincoln Magnum water cooling unit along with a broken torch that hey sold me for $75.00. Looks like I got myself one heck of a deal on some industrial grade equipment. It might be possible to fix the torch if parts are available. The hard plastic handle on the torch is smashed, revealing the gas and water line connectors. Hopefully I can figure out what brand it was.

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            • #7
              You did fine !!

              Unless your tig'n aluminum, you'll rarely pull much more than 50 amps,
              Sweet!!

              vg
              sigpicViceGrip
              Negative people have a problem for every solution

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              • #8
                Bad news. I'm going to find out how good the seller is for his word that he guantees it works. The machine unfortunately doesn't work. I opened it up, set the jumpers to the correct position for 230v. Flip it on, fan works, electrical outlets are alive. You try to weld on DC settings and it has an open circuit dc voltage of only 30 volts. Miserable as **** to maintain an arc. On AC setting, it has an open circuit voltage of 73 volts, but no current. You strike an arc, and its like you are rubbing two wires connected to a 9v transister battery. The machine is awefully corroded inside.

                If I hook a welding rod across the two leads it runs full current through it no matter what the DC setting. Nothing on AC, but lots of current on DC. Glows the rod red hot even when set current to zero.

                Might be a simple repair or an expensive one. 99% sure I have the voltage jumpers set right. There is a small label showing the jumper settings for 230 volts on an insulting panel inside the machine next to the line terminals and jumper.
                Last edited by Timinmb; 12-06-2008, 03:29 PM.

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                • #9
                  ...so you didn't get him to demo it before you handed him your cash??? I guess you'll find out what an honorable fellow he is...
                  "Good Enough Never Is"

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Hotfoot View Post
                    ...so you didn't get him to demo it before you handed him your cash??? I guess you'll find out what an honorable fellow he is...
                    It had a 560 v (?) plug on it and it was at his residence. I just spoke to him, and he says the business tested them all before putting them in storage. He seems like a good guy. I'm guessing that one of the many connections such as a spade connector on the switches or circuit board may be loose and/or corroded if he's right about it working before being taken out of service. The only thing that would make this machine terminal is if the transformer itself had a bad winding.

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                    • #11
                      Sounds almost like my Esab TIG's problems. It was a bad firing board on mine..which was repaired for around 200 clams. I wouldn't worry too much yet. Those units are well supported and like was already said, almost bullet proof. Take it to a welder doc and get it a check up. It may be a cheap fix.


                      One really good thing about those older Synchs is the support Miller has for them. My old Bobcat has maybe 40-50% parts support now because it is a 1988 unit. I had an opportunity to get a 1978 model Synch 250 last year. I was concerned about parts support, so I checked with my repair guy. He looked up the unit and found it still had 100% parts support. I didn't get the machine, but it was nice to find out the old ones are still supported like that.
                      Don


                      Go Spurs Go!!!!!!

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                      • #12
                        Is that a 560 volt three phase machine??? Might explain why it won't run on your one phase service...
                        "Good Enough Never Is"

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Hotfoot View Post
                          Is that a 560 volt three phase machine??? Might explain why it won't run on your one phase service...
                          No fortunately the label on the front clearly shows it as a single phase machine, configurable for 230, 460 and five something. As well, you can even tell by the line connections inside, a ground and two hots. I'll test the output from the transformers to make sure they are good, then go for loose or corroded connections after that. This machine is worth investing a few hours or dollars into at the price I got it at. I'm pretty sure the main transformer must be good, or else it wouldn't make a 1/8 rod glow red hot after a couple of seconds. Something in the control circuitry seems to have gone awry. Too bad the schematic on the manual doesn't seem to cover the circuit board itself, just everything plugging into it. Anyone have a schematic for the circuit board?

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                          • #14
                            Schematics for boards used to be on the older manuals. Download them at Miller's site.
                            Don


                            Go Spurs Go!!!!!!

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                            • #15
                              Don't know if this will help -

                              http://www.plccenter.com/ManListpage...Welder%20Parts

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