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wipping action needed?

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  • wipping action needed?

    I am constantly doing butt welds and fillet welds on 1/8" mild steel (about 85 amps, 3/32 6010, flat welding). I previously tried welding this thin stuff using a C or crescent wipping motion. I then tried welding using a straight dragging which gave me better results - at least it looked better. I'm thinking for the thin stuff the C motion is not needed and a straight drag will do. What do all of you think?
    TomK

  • #2
    i would recomend a whipping action but i would just whip strait out and back

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    • #3
      1/8" is exactly thin, but if you're comparing it to 1/2", I guess it would be. You don't mention the joint design, whether you have a gap or not...if you have a gap, then whipping would be good, but no gap, you shouldn't need it, I would think.

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      • #4
        i would do a whipping motion

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        • #5
          I would turn your heat down some,3/32 6010 at around 60 to 65 amps should be fine.You should be able to use the whip motion at these settings with no problem.

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          • #6
            I'd try 6013. 6010 is a deep penetrating, aggressive rod.
            9-11-2001......We Will Never Forget

            Retired desk jockey.

            Hobby weldor with a little training.

            Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz.

            Miller Syncrowave 250

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            • #7
              I cannot use 6010 or 6013 so it would have to be 6011 or 7018, with 7018 you just drag...

              by personnal choice i dont use 6011 at all the smoke is just too nasty!!!

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              • #8
                I dont use any other method with 10 or 11. You can make them nicer than these.
                http://www.facebook.com/cary.urka.urkafarms

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                • #9
                  I think some people seem to think of 6010 and 6011 as this hard to handle,aggressive ,digging out of control rod. BUT it can be controlled just like any other rod.Once you get your heat dialed in,it is [my opinion] the best rod for sheet metal or thin metal.You can run them downhill and still achieve good penatration,the weld puddle is very fluid and can be controlled very easy.It just takes a lot of practice.
                  3/32- rods start at 50 amps-go up or down a little as needed
                  50 is on the low end, so you wont start out blowing holes
                  1/8 -rod try 80 to start,same thing ,go up or down as needed.
                  If you blow a hole in the sheet,knock the flux off of a rod ,shove it in the hole.weld over it.Hit it with a flap disc and it looks fine.
                  16 gauge is about the thinnest I believe you stick weld.Some people with more experience may be able to do thinner.1/8 inch sheet should stick weld just fine.

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                  • #10
                    I don't whip unless there is a gap. Seems like the new breed of welders seem to like to whip their weld. I think most of it is welder appeal.
                    Esab Multimaster 260 Sweet machine!
                    Thermal Arc Arc Master, Don't use it much just got a heck of a deal on this unit
                    Don't talk about it, be about it.

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                    • #11
                      I whip this type of electrode on every stroke. Here is a pic om Miller where the guy took the time to learn the principal of this rod. Its the key to control. If all one had to do was drag it around then they wouldn't pay the big bucks to get it done and they would have old women and children running it.
                      http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ad.php?t=16493
                      http://www.facebook.com/cary.urka.urkafarms

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